VQ Oil Analysis and Info
that's a good one.
By the way, is that your G35 that The Perfomance Factory place an Vortex Supercharger on? That car is bitchin man! 
10-12-2008, 10:06 PM
#643
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I had my OEM filter in my garage in the K&N box, so I threw it back in. I did notice a slight difference in throttle response and sound. Is there a better filter that has good filtration, and is still high flow? Seems to defy the laws of physics...
**edit
thread created https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...iltration.html
Last edited by WhiteNoiz; 10-13-2008 at 01:33 PM.
10-13-2008, 02:00 PM
#644
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now when i heard about that paper filter for the nismo intake that filters out the silicone, i was curious if they made one the diameter of the JWT popcharger intake? thanks!
also this is the best oil thread i've read! i just put in some Mobile 1 0w-40 today..just curious if this is the best oil, and i know each engine has different results, for an aggressive DD in the North Dallas area? Once again thanks for this thread!!!
also this is the best oil thread i've read! i just put in some Mobile 1 0w-40 today..just curious if this is the best oil, and i know each engine has different results, for an aggressive DD in the North Dallas area? Once again thanks for this thread!!!
10-13-2008, 02:09 PM
#645
^M1 0W-40
That's what I've been using in my Vortech SC'ed G35 for the past 3 or 4 oil changes. I'm getting ready to send in my sample tomorrow for analysis. From the samples I've seen in this thread, it's a great choice especially if you're FI.
My sample will be just under 3000 miles but it took over 9 months to hit that mileage. Also part of those miles are 2 mild track days, 1 at Motorsport Ranch (SW Ft. Worth) and the other at Texas Motor Speedway on the Roval with several sprints to ~110mph.
Hopefully I will see good results!
Oh and btw ... AutoZone is having a sale this month with any 5 quarts of M1 oil and a M1 filter it's like getting the filter free plus a little more!
That's what I've been using in my Vortech SC'ed G35 for the past 3 or 4 oil changes. I'm getting ready to send in my sample tomorrow for analysis. From the samples I've seen in this thread, it's a great choice especially if you're FI.
My sample will be just under 3000 miles but it took over 9 months to hit that mileage. Also part of those miles are 2 mild track days, 1 at Motorsport Ranch (SW Ft. Worth) and the other at Texas Motor Speedway on the Roval with several sprints to ~110mph.
Hopefully I will see good results!
Oh and btw ... AutoZone is having a sale this month with any 5 quarts of M1 oil and a M1 filter it's like getting the filter free plus a little more!
10-13-2008, 05:27 PM
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The link, also there is a downloable pdf file on this page.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx
10-14-2008, 12:54 PM
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I went to Amsoil' website and then took measurements of my NISMO CAI filter (basically a K&N cotton oil filter) and purchased the same size in the paper EaAU series filter. You can see from my UOA's that it cleaned up the high silicon numbers very well.
The link, also there is a downloable pdf file on this page.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx
The link, also there is a downloable pdf file on this page.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx
just wanted to ask if anyone has done this switch with their JWT popcharger and has the filter # so it saves me from going out and measuring my filter??
10-14-2008, 08:16 PM
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^oh...yeh I know what you mean, it was a beotch for me. 06CPV35 may have it, I will pm him.
I have the Amsoil part# for the NISMO CAI filter, around here somewhere if anyone needs it.
I have the Amsoil part# for the NISMO CAI filter, around here somewhere if anyone needs it.
10-15-2008, 06:18 AM
#649
I'm back to stock box with Amsoil's drop-in. Have my JWT kicking around somewhere. I'll measure it and post when I get a chance.
Last edited by 06CPV35; 10-15-2008 at 06:47 AM. Reason: added quote frm Z You Later
10-29-2008, 08:36 AM
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Hi Resolute - I'm Joe from myg37.com - I saw your Oil Analysis thread here. Wow, a lot of great and useful information in there.
I wanted to ask your advice/opinion. I have ran 2 complete cycles of dino conventional oil in my G37, from factory fill to 3750, and then a change to more OEM conventional at 3750. I am now approaching 7500 miles - my 2nd oil change. I hear a ton of mixed opinions on how soon you can safely switch to synthetic. I plan on switching to Castrol Syntec 5W-30, I was thinking about Mobil 1 5W-30 but opted away from that after reading this thread. The Mobil 1 0W-40 looks tempting but my dealer says "while it SHOULD be safe, if an oil related problem occurs it will be out of warranty since the recommended weight is 5W-30). So, unfortunately I am limited to 5W-30 weights!
Well, now to my question, I think it's safe to say that the vast majority of folks say to at least break in the motor with the factory dino oil. Though much of the rings/seals get seated and broken in through the first 500 miles - most folks say that 1,500 miles is a safe bet on modern engines. Many wait one whole cycle to the 3-4k mark, and that's fine. I have waited to the 7500mi mark and still there are some who swear that 'so and so Nissan tech guy' or 'Infiniti tech guy' or 'retired engineer and magazine editor' says to let the VQ motor break in to 15k miles before switching to synthetic to truly break it in all the way!
As you have researched and posted so much information on the subject of oil - I was wondering if you had advice for me in this matter. Is it safe for me to go synthetic now at my 7500mi mark or should I be extra cautious and drive on dino oil until about 15k?
Thanks in advance for your input and help! Though I am addressing Resolute, anyone can feel free to chime in with answers/advice.
Note:
Since I am approaching my 7500mi mark and 2nd oil change, I went ahead and checked my dino oil level with the dipstick and have consumed little to no oil - the level is just a small notch below HIGH.
I wanted to ask your advice/opinion. I have ran 2 complete cycles of dino conventional oil in my G37, from factory fill to 3750, and then a change to more OEM conventional at 3750. I am now approaching 7500 miles - my 2nd oil change. I hear a ton of mixed opinions on how soon you can safely switch to synthetic. I plan on switching to Castrol Syntec 5W-30, I was thinking about Mobil 1 5W-30 but opted away from that after reading this thread. The Mobil 1 0W-40 looks tempting but my dealer says "while it SHOULD be safe, if an oil related problem occurs it will be out of warranty since the recommended weight is 5W-30). So, unfortunately I am limited to 5W-30 weights!
Well, now to my question, I think it's safe to say that the vast majority of folks say to at least break in the motor with the factory dino oil. Though much of the rings/seals get seated and broken in through the first 500 miles - most folks say that 1,500 miles is a safe bet on modern engines. Many wait one whole cycle to the 3-4k mark, and that's fine. I have waited to the 7500mi mark and still there are some who swear that 'so and so Nissan tech guy' or 'Infiniti tech guy' or 'retired engineer and magazine editor' says to let the VQ motor break in to 15k miles before switching to synthetic to truly break it in all the way!
As you have researched and posted so much information on the subject of oil - I was wondering if you had advice for me in this matter. Is it safe for me to go synthetic now at my 7500mi mark or should I be extra cautious and drive on dino oil until about 15k?
Thanks in advance for your input and help! Though I am addressing Resolute, anyone can feel free to chime in with answers/advice.
Note:
Since I am approaching my 7500mi mark and 2nd oil change, I went ahead and checked my dino oil level with the dipstick and have consumed little to no oil - the level is just a small notch below HIGH.
10-29-2008, 03:50 PM
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10-29-2008, 03:52 PM
#654
Joe-
This thread contains UOA's of the DE series of engines. The VHR is a very different engine in regards to how an engine oil will perform.
That being said, the HR engines have done just fine with using synthetic at the first oil change, with no increase in wear or oil consumption. Based on over one hundred oil analysis results, I think the question of synthetic versus conventional as a factor for increased wear and consumption is inconsequential. A more meaningful discussion may be had over the drain intervals during the first 5k miles of ownership. I have seen the best results from engines whose oil was drained often and in short order during this time. I have also seen some good results from engines whose oil was drained at the recommended intervals, but I would say the data lends some support for frequent oil changes. Therefore, I personally would recommend a change at 500 miles, then 1200, and then 3k miles before starting a regular drain interval from there on out.
As to your question directly; you may change to synthetic as soon as you wish. Per your PM, I would suggest the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 for your application. Besides being a thick 30 weight oil with a decent HTHS score, and offering good low temperature characteristics, it also has low Moly, which as I recall reading in a recent SAE technical paper is a benefit to your engine since moly is corrosive to the DLC found on your engine's valve buckets.
The variable valve lift mechanism found in the VHR offers several challenges to an oil, and it will be interesting to see how the GC performs compared to the DE and HR engines. You should have a UOA performed to remove any speculation as to how well the oil is working for your application. If you get one, feel free to post it here and I'll offer my review if you'd like.
Will
This thread contains UOA's of the DE series of engines. The VHR is a very different engine in regards to how an engine oil will perform.
That being said, the HR engines have done just fine with using synthetic at the first oil change, with no increase in wear or oil consumption. Based on over one hundred oil analysis results, I think the question of synthetic versus conventional as a factor for increased wear and consumption is inconsequential. A more meaningful discussion may be had over the drain intervals during the first 5k miles of ownership. I have seen the best results from engines whose oil was drained often and in short order during this time. I have also seen some good results from engines whose oil was drained at the recommended intervals, but I would say the data lends some support for frequent oil changes. Therefore, I personally would recommend a change at 500 miles, then 1200, and then 3k miles before starting a regular drain interval from there on out.
As to your question directly; you may change to synthetic as soon as you wish. Per your PM, I would suggest the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 for your application. Besides being a thick 30 weight oil with a decent HTHS score, and offering good low temperature characteristics, it also has low Moly, which as I recall reading in a recent SAE technical paper is a benefit to your engine since moly is corrosive to the DLC found on your engine's valve buckets.
The variable valve lift mechanism found in the VHR offers several challenges to an oil, and it will be interesting to see how the GC performs compared to the DE and HR engines. You should have a UOA performed to remove any speculation as to how well the oil is working for your application. If you get one, feel free to post it here and I'll offer my review if you'd like.
Will
10-29-2008, 04:30 PM
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resolute in terms of keeping within factory specs until warranty is up- what's your opinion of castrol syntec american 5w-30? I may go with gc after warranty is up...
10-29-2008, 04:35 PM
#657
GC will not void your warranty. I cannot even imagine how a dealer could say anything to you about using one 30 weight oil over another, but if you want to try the 5W-30 then go ahead. It's not as well formulated as the 0W-30, but has shown good results in HR engines.
Will
Will
10-29-2008, 04:50 PM
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GC will not void your warranty. I cannot even imagine how a dealer could say anything to you about using one 30 weight oil over another, but if you want to try the 5W-30 then go ahead. It's not as well formulated as the 0W-30, but has shown good results in HR engines.
Will
Will
10-29-2008, 05:11 PM
#659
What about the 0W rating?
Joe, if you don't want to argue with them, or if you think they actually have the means to measure cold cranking viscosity and it is identified anywhere in the warranty at which temperature the difference between a 5W and 0W is a liability, then use what you're comfortable with.
The fact is the warranty is not voided by using a 0W-30, there's no way a more stable viscosity could be a liability, and there is no argument that would prove otherwise.
I think you might also want to re-visit the first page of this sticky and scope out the viscosity rating a little closer if you are unclear about viscosity versus temperature; specifically about the temperatures cold cranking viscosity is measured at according to J300 specs for a 5 and 0 weight oil, and their relative viscosity to operating temperatures.
Otherwise, just use what you're comfortable with, get a UOA, and then we'll have a base level to work from. BTW, if it ends up looking as bad as the Blackstone report I saw on myG37- you're screwed.
Will
Joe, if you don't want to argue with them, or if you think they actually have the means to measure cold cranking viscosity and it is identified anywhere in the warranty at which temperature the difference between a 5W and 0W is a liability, then use what you're comfortable with.
The fact is the warranty is not voided by using a 0W-30, there's no way a more stable viscosity could be a liability, and there is no argument that would prove otherwise.
I think you might also want to re-visit the first page of this sticky and scope out the viscosity rating a little closer if you are unclear about viscosity versus temperature; specifically about the temperatures cold cranking viscosity is measured at according to J300 specs for a 5 and 0 weight oil, and their relative viscosity to operating temperatures.
Otherwise, just use what you're comfortable with, get a UOA, and then we'll have a base level to work from. BTW, if it ends up looking as bad as the Blackstone report I saw on myG37- you're screwed.
Will
10-29-2008, 05:18 PM
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What about the 0W rating?
Joe, if you don't want to argue with them, or if you think they actually have the means to measure cold cranking viscosity and it is identified anywhere in the warranty at which temperature the difference between a 5W and 0W is a liability, then use what you're comfortable with.
The fact is the warranty is not voided by using a 0W-30, there's no way a more stable viscosity could be a liability, and there is no argument that would prove otherwise.
I think you might also want to re-visit the first page of this sticky and scope out the viscosity rating a little closer if you are unclear about viscosity versus temperature; specifically about the temperatures cold cranking viscosity is measured at according to J300 specs for a 5 and 0 weight oil, and their relative viscosity to operating temperatures.
Otherwise, just use what you're comfortable with, get a UOA, and then we'll have a base level to work from. BTW, if it ends up looking as bad as the Blackstone report I saw on myG37- you're screwed.
Will
Joe, if you don't want to argue with them, or if you think they actually have the means to measure cold cranking viscosity and it is identified anywhere in the warranty at which temperature the difference between a 5W and 0W is a liability, then use what you're comfortable with.
The fact is the warranty is not voided by using a 0W-30, there's no way a more stable viscosity could be a liability, and there is no argument that would prove otherwise.
I think you might also want to re-visit the first page of this sticky and scope out the viscosity rating a little closer if you are unclear about viscosity versus temperature; specifically about the temperatures cold cranking viscosity is measured at according to J300 specs for a 5 and 0 weight oil, and their relative viscosity to operating temperatures.
Otherwise, just use what you're comfortable with, get a UOA, and then we'll have a base level to work from. BTW, if it ends up looking as bad as the Blackstone report I saw on myG37- you're screwed.
Will
Oh trust me I want to use GC 0W-30, I just don't want them to try to pin some future issue on it (which would probably be BS if they did, but you know how it's difficult to fight as the little man without taking something to court).
I think I'll go with the GC 0W-30. Yes I just read the first post and have a better understanding now. Oh and what did you mean by "if it ends up looking as bad as the Blackstone report on myG37" - which report did you see and what was it like? What oil was it from? Were you referring to this factory fill dino UOA? http://myg37.com/forums/showpost.php...4&postcount=29
Factory looks pretty bad right? Or rather it seems that the motor sheds a lot of metals early on for the first 6-8k miles.
Thanks! You're very helpful!
Last edited by detroitg37joe; 10-29-2008 at 05:46 PM.