Nismospeed4life

iTrader: (21)

You cant go wrong with neither one of those choices, as they all have been recomended before. I was using Amsoil TSO and I switch to Mobil 1 0W-40,
And I seem to be consuming less oil and it the car runs well.

However, an UOA needs to be done on your TSO to see how your personal engine is working with it. Now, Resolute will have a better understanding on this topic. However, base on the information that I read here, that would be my understanding.

I hope that was helpful.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Here's my latest UOA...anther sample from Rotella T-Syn 5W40.

MY motor is a stock block motor with a Greddy Twin kit on it. This motor has had nitrous, single turbo, or twin turbo since having about 5000 miles on the odometer.

I don't know why Blackstone just noticed "turbo" on my oil analysis sheet. I have always mentioned it having twin turbos on my 3 other UOAs. That being said, I am not worried about the higher lead values. Actually, the lead values have continually dropped with each change of oil. I am amazed at how long the lead from the race gas has stayed in the system. Along those same lines, look how the Moly content is almost finally gone. Rotella doesn't have moly in it.....the moly is left over from use of Motul 300V (over 10,000 miles ago!)

Here it is for your viewing pleasure!

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Looks good. Don't worry about the Pb, it is residual from the race gas. It takes a long time to get out, and doesn't affect engine wear in any negative way. It will continue to drop for you, just as it has for the last three changes. The moly is from the 300V, just like you said, and it's down to 5ppm now. No big deal. It's also not detrimental to engine wear in any way. Otherwise, this oil is doing very well for you. This could just as well come from a NA engine, with the wear so low. Unless you really wanted to be sure the Pb is gone by the next sample, I'd say a UOA isn't needed and you've found a great oil for your needs. It's not shearing and the wear metals are excellent for your engine's build and oil change interval.

Will

Nederlander75

GC is out of the Alti SER with about 7K on it. Going to OAI via FedEx and will post results.

Anyone have any dares on a 30wt to try after my 2 stashed runs of M1 0w40 run out? Was looking at Ams XL just to be senably cheap.

norapat01

iTrader: (18)

wow, I just found this thread...OMG it is full of useful info!! I didn't know Mobile 1 5W-30 cause more wear compared to Castrol 5W-30. Think I'm gonna switch back to Castrol!! As for the filter, seems like the best choice is Pure One?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

PP 5W-30. Give it a shot. 20 bucks for a 5 quart bottle.

Will

Nederlander75

Do you think its of value to the community for both of us to get samples on the PP 5w30?

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

always for good for the community, but more importantly, it is good to knwo how your own motor is doing!

Nederlander75

I was more saying was going to through mine under the bus for about 12K miles after my stash of M1 0w40 ran out mid next year.

minh420

iTrader: (8)

What type of oil do you recomened for vq motors with high mileage?? 80k and up??

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

good oil for the VQ is good oil for the VQ....

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I posted the Blackstone results on my new V2 in the oil consumption thread - in case you'd like to comment Mr. Resolute. 3 oil changes from 0 to 2662 miles.

https://my350z.com/forum/6153401-post3347.html

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

If you want to get a tally of people's opinions on what oils would be good for a high mileage engine, then start a thread for it. You'd get lots of people's recommendations. This thread is about general oil information (PAO vs G3, what does viscosity mean, what causes engine wear, etc..), UOA sharing, and questions/interpretations of the UOA's so that people can choose for themselves what oil to use.

I understand that this thread has a lot of information, and since I've made it about as clear as I can and I still get PM'd the same questions, I expect there to be some people who just won't understand how to read the UOA charts.

The simple fact is, there are no UOA's from an engine with your mileage. High Mileage doesn't dictate the condition of the engine- it could be in the exact same condition it was at 50k miles. If you want to see if your engine has "special needs", then pick an oil with good UOA results, use it, and then get your own UOA done to compare. If it is substantially worse off, then you might actually need to alter which oil you use based on whatever engine problems you are having (which wouldn't necessarily be a result of your mileage). If you aren't having any engine issues, then any of the oils with good UOA results will be a good choice for you.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

THROW IT UNDER THE BUS!!!! I would personally love to see how well PP 5W-30 holds up for 12k miles. Personally, I think that's stretching it in the VQ. this engine shears oil pretty bad. Consider how Amsoil's SSO was taken down to a 20 weight in 6k miles or so, and that oil's supposed to remain shear stable for 25k miles. But, like I said, I'd be curious to see how PP does, and it's your engine not mine, so I say DO IT!!!

Will

Nederlander75

Not planning on a 12K OCI, but rather running a conventional visc 30 wt in this engine. Most likely 2 OCIs durinng the 12 K, 5K to clean out and 7K run.

Im am temped by the PP, but what are your thoughts on the Q syns Will? These are pretty cheap up here, 17.84 for the 5qrt jugs. I hear the base stocks are the same as PP, but PP has the better Addpack. Prettier bottles though.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I've read speculation and other people's opinions about the additive pack being better in PP than the QS, but have seen no proof. I have heard some folks swear that PP 5W-40 is Helix Ultra 5W-40, but it's the QS 5W-40 that has the Ferrari approval shared with Helix Ultra, and not PP. So, I'm not convinced that Pennzoil Platinum is "slightly better" than Shell's Q Syn formulas, whether from an additive standpoint or in the quality of base stocks. I think people have just held on to the general consensus from thirty years ago that Pennzoil made a better product than Quaker State. I don't think that holds true (if it ever did) since Shell bought the brands.

I have looked at the MSDS and spec sheets for some of the oils, and there is a difference between the brands for the same grades, but I'm not certain what they are. I would not hesitate to give the Q Syn Horsepower 5W-30 a shot, however, and compare it against the PP 5W-30.

Will

Jonathan Allyn

iTrader: (3)

OK, so I just changed my oil yesterday and am sending it off to Blackstone for the analysis. I have been using RP 5w-30 every 3 - 3500 miles for the past two years and haven't noticed anything negative from it but am curious as to how its been working out in my car. It does burn through a little less than 1 qt between changes but that doesnt even compare to my last longblock that was replaced due to OC issues.

After all of this research though, I am thinking about switching over to something more economical since the RP is almost 8$ per quart now.

I will post the results when they get back.



BTW - Great information here! Subscribing...

SILKZ03

iTrader: (8)

Dayum, I thought I knew what time it was about oil, I just finished all 30 pages on this thread. I dont know jack! my car is FI. I'm too embarrased to say what i let firestone put in my car for its first synthetic oil change after the install. Now that I read this, I'm even scared to drive it to get the oil change. Right now, I'm going to get it drained and jumping right on to Mobil 1 TDT from the start. Thanks for the thread. I've learned alot and saved me a heardache and engine problems in the long run.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

The track days really took a toll on this oil- the Calcium is part of an additive that neutralizes acids in the oil from oxidation, and it was depleted compared to the previous sample. It did is job, though, good TBN still. Of course, you also only had 1500 miles on it. The wear metals were high for such low mileage, but consistent. Silicon is from RTV and seals, and will continue to drop. Copper could still be from assembly lube and gasket leachate, but with your Pb being high, I am inclined to think your track days took a toll on the bearings. Your upper cylinder and piston ring wear look good. The oil sheared down to a solid 20 weight, it's not even close to a 30 weight oil anymore.

I would switch oil. Schaeffer's 5W-30, Castrol Syntec 0W-30, or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 would be my recommendations for you to try. Each has a good history of UOA's in the VQ, and is suitable for Michigan climate. If you like Valvoline, try their SynPower 5W-30 and see if it fares any better than their conventional.

Will

06CPV35

^Speaking of Valoline. I'm running their DuraBlend 10w-30 right now with my new rev-up VQ. I'm thinking of having Dyson doing a UOA on that oil. End of current interval will be 2K on oil with 3750 on fresh engine. Worth posting those results or VQ too fresh for valid comparison here?