Clutch Replaced with JWT
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So my stock clutch has gone to crap, guess i was a lil too rough?
So, now time to upgrade to the JWT combo. However, i did a self diagnosis and figured my clutch was out since its slipping horridly. Before i order my JWT, is there anything else i need besides the clutch and flywheel. Im thinking of going to the dealer but have to get a day off work so thats kinda lagging the process. So if any of you know exactly what i need it'll be great. Search function brought back that i might as well get a new clutch slave cylinder while im in there. Anyone care to chime in, im stuck driving around the beater truck =/
Thanks, Joe
So, now time to upgrade to the JWT combo. However, i did a self diagnosis and figured my clutch was out since its slipping horridly. Before i order my JWT, is there anything else i need besides the clutch and flywheel. Im thinking of going to the dealer but have to get a day off work so thats kinda lagging the process. So if any of you know exactly what i need it'll be great. Search function brought back that i might as well get a new clutch slave cylinder while im in there. Anyone care to chime in, im stuck driving around the beater truck =/
Thanks, Joe
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Sounds good, C/F, Slave cylinder, and new SS clutch lines. Hoping for some more information people, i greatly appreciate it since im at work now, and have had my car sitting at home for 2 weeks because im so damn busy!
Originally Posted by JoeyFyed
17k miles. Lol, dont ask. I already know...
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Well, i've heard great things about JWT for street driving. Ive taken my car only once to the 1/4 and drive somewhat spirited. I'm sure there are other brands out there (ACT) that are better than JWT performance wise, but i wanna keep a somewhat tame clutch being that i'm NA and i don't see it necessary to have a really stiff clutch (Drive in traffic from Pasadena, to Hollywood everyday). Also everyone seems to love the combo, and with a 15lb difference in the flywheels, this is a great performance mod. Should shave a few tenths off the times.
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Well, for me. I put it in 6th on the highway @ 70. Gun it, rpms shoots from 3k to 6k, then while still gunning the car, the rpms falls down back to 3k. In a sense, slipping....
i wondered the same thing myself.
when i burned my first one the easiest give away was the smell and higher engagement point. that was before i realized that you cant rest ur foot on the clutch pedal lol. noob i know.
but it was obvious when the car started to slip while at full throttle. its a feel thing. you will notice it. its like you get used to a certain sound at a certain speed while the throttle is open. and all of a sudden u notice that the rpms dont match the wheel speed. its like having the clutch partially engaged while driving.
when i burned my first one the easiest give away was the smell and higher engagement point. that was before i realized that you cant rest ur foot on the clutch pedal lol. noob i know.
but it was obvious when the car started to slip while at full throttle. its a feel thing. you will notice it. its like you get used to a certain sound at a certain speed while the throttle is open. and all of a sudden u notice that the rpms dont match the wheel speed. its like having the clutch partially engaged while driving.
Originally Posted by hotshothenry
How can you guys tell when your clutch is about to go?
When your clutch starts slipping it's usually in high gears under full acceleration. It feels you're gunning it with the clutch pushed halfway in... RPM stays up there but the car takes a bit for it's speed to increase to match the engine.
The problem will exaggerate if you're sitting in traffic and working the clutch heavily, causing it to heat up and lose grip.
Rob
Originally Posted by PFunk124
Well I have like 35k on mines and I can tell its getting worn a bit. Thinking about getting a Nismo Clutch and a light flywell. Any suggestions on the flywheels?
I found an article on how to choose a clutch:
http://www.specialtyz.com/choosing.htm
and:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/CLUTCH/
In summary, the latter site comments:
"To repeat the important point, do not buy more clutch than you need.
A simple organic disk will handle a wide variety of use - including street use, auto-x, and even true racing. In fact, SCCA ITS racing rules require a standard OE-spec organic disk. UUC has tested organic disks to reliably handle up to 475hp in long-term street use. M3s regularly run through several auto-x seasons without problems.
A kevlar disk is a good choice for a heavily-tracked or road-raced cars, especially with forced induction.
Carbon/ceramic should be left to high-power cars that see lots of drag racing, or are dedicated track/drag cars.
Sintered iron clutch disks are strictly for endurance racing."
http://www.specialtyz.com/choosing.htm
and:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/CLUTCH/
In summary, the latter site comments:
"To repeat the important point, do not buy more clutch than you need.
A simple organic disk will handle a wide variety of use - including street use, auto-x, and even true racing. In fact, SCCA ITS racing rules require a standard OE-spec organic disk. UUC has tested organic disks to reliably handle up to 475hp in long-term street use. M3s regularly run through several auto-x seasons without problems.
A kevlar disk is a good choice for a heavily-tracked or road-raced cars, especially with forced induction.
Carbon/ceramic should be left to high-power cars that see lots of drag racing, or are dedicated track/drag cars.
Sintered iron clutch disks are strictly for endurance racing."
Last edited by TuckandTwist; Jun 15, 2007 at 03:49 AM.
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