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if you had cats and went to test pipes, you will lose torque
as far as the vibrating, check the heat shield on drivers side by test pipe. mine was touching, pry bar and little bending solved the rattle issue i had. also check the brace that goes under the mid pipe, if the exhaust isnt fitted properly it can sag and rub on it
I'm betting the noise at low rpms is the increased chatter from the lighter weight single mass flywheel.
It's fine if you want to wait on the plenum spacer (if you even end up doing it at all). It was just something I was throwing out there.
You've obviously got more pressing issues to take care of. But then again, the priority of repairs has been off this entire time, so at this point, there's really no reason to the order of operations.
I'm betting the noise at low rpms is the increased chatter from the lighter weight single mass flywheel.
It's fine if you want to wait on the plenum spacer (if you even end up doing it at all). It was just something I was throwing out there.
You've obviously got more pressing issues to take care of. But then again, the priority of repairs has been off this entire time, so at this point, there's really no reason to the order of operations.
Yes, i think the noise changed slightly after flywheel, however, it still sounded loose or ringy somewhat before flywheel. I had the inkling it could be trans related, but was worried if its engine. Hopefully ill atleast have new trans soon.
idk if i want to wait on plenum spacer or not lol. Do you think if im able to avoid higher rpms, running that lean would damage the engine at all? I definitely dont want to sacrifice reliability, and it seems a tad lean already, but not stalling out or anything.
if you had cats and went to test pipes, you will lose torque
as far as the vibrating, check the heat shield on drivers side by test pipe. mine was touching, pry bar and little bending solved the rattle issue i had. also check the brace that goes under the mid pipe, if the exhaust isnt fitted properly it can sag and rub on it
It does sound like its a possibility its on exhaust too. hmmm
It does sound like its a possibility its on exhaust too. hmmm
Dyno's have been posted on this site to show about a 2tq increase and 5hp increase to test pipes. You will not lose torque. You are running a 4-stroke engine, right?
Dyno's have been posted on this site to show about a 2tq increase and 5hp increase to test pipes from resonated test pipes and 7tq/3hp from cats to test pipes. You will not lose torque. You are running a 4-stroke engine, right?
ill stay out of that battle lol. i dont even know if the vq35de is four stroke but thats what ive got.
anyways i screwed up and was washing the car but got a little too close with the sprayer.. Whats strange is the license plate area looks like silverstone, but this looks like bare metal color. and i noticed this area where wrap looks bad, it kind of looks shiny and different there too. but silverstone only had orange seats not other silver. i really hope heels not right, about the wrap hiding something scary. i dont see the silverstone colored paint on back of where wrap peeled either.
i dont even know if the vq35de is four stroke but thats what ive got.
No no no no no no no no no. The VQ35DE is a 5.67x cyclotron stroke with added oil injected power cycle (that's why valve covers leaking into cylinder)! Because #racecar!
Seriously? The words "Intake-Compression-Power-Exhaust" mean nothing to you? Troll. Gotta be. I mean, you come on here with all this repetitive complaining, wishing and false expectations without even basic understanding? OK, I have nothing against newb people asking questions and such - we all start somewhere - but I know I said waaaaaay up front that you should at least take a basic auto shop class or do your basic theory research before talking about all these power, suspension mods, wait, no, just essential FIXES, that you're talking.
lol im not a troll.. and i have no knowledge of any of that stuff i dont even understand the diff engine strokes. dude asked.
My only knowledge is from looking up stuff, which is usually just to figure out what to have done to my car. Most knowledge acquired recently, because i havent had a fast car in awhile. You all have helped alot. Im really on the right path with this car i feel, now that i know what suspension parts i need and stuff. And as ive said multiple times, this will be a slow project w my finances.
edit: Im still going to drive hard once for dugan day though as a celebration of you all helping. after all this talk
Last edited by luv350sass; May 6, 2023 at 08:18 AM.
lol im not a troll.. and i have no knowledge of any of that stuff i dont even understand the diff engine strokes. dude asked.
My only knowledge is from looking up stuff, which is usually just to figure out what to have done to my car. Most knowledge acquired recently, because i havent had a fast car in awhile. You all have helped alot. Im really on the right path with this car i feel, now that i know what suspension parts i need and stuff. And as ive said multiple times, this will be a slow project w my finances.
edit: Im still going to drive hard once for dugan day though as a celebration of you all helping. after all this talk
Well, I know you're not a troll but really, you should take the time to understand the basics. This way you'll understand what and why the mechanics tell you what they tell you. This is to avoid being overcharged or what suggested parts are being suggested. I understand you're a newbie and respect that. But basics are a good thing to know.
no travlee, I just now used the search function to try and find that thread, still cant find the og dugan thread.
Originally Posted by MicVelo
Well, I know you're not a troll but really, you should take the time to understand the basics. This way you'll understand what and why the mechanics tell you what they tell you. This is to avoid being overcharged or what suggested parts are being suggested. I understand you're a newbie and respect that. But basics are a good thing to know.
Okay cool, I will read it later tonight. I do retain info better when im hands on. I cant remember what it was, but over a decade ago I attempted some small repair on my car. I just had to buy tools, and alot of problems. I decided it wasnt worth it to do my own work.
Now, I regret that. While im happy with my shop, I want to be able to do my own work. Ive seen what goes on behind the scenes at restaurants. Im sure someday, someone will secretly cut corners on my car. I just have no space, no garage, no organization for tools, and no knowledge. I do want my own house im paying on, in a few years. Im thinking once i get that house, I may be able to have a lift, and better tool space. Then I would like to attempt some of my own work.
I read about the difference between 2 stroke and 4 stroke, it wasnt that bad. so i have a 4 stroke lol.
im reading up on z1 mail in tunes. It seems like more of a headache than local dyno tune. Its barely cheaper, but way cheaper for a reflash. This makes it tempting to do so i could tune before suspension, and retune again after suspension and more performance parts.
I still dont get how they would gather data from my log though, when i cant even run my car because i just installed 4in intake and headers.
Last edited by luv350sass; May 7, 2023 at 05:16 AM.
im reading up on z1 mail in tunes. It seems like more of a headache than local dyno tune. Its barely cheaper, but way cheaper for a reflash. This makes it tempting to do so i could tune before suspension, and retune again after suspension and more performance parts.
I still dont get how they would gather data from my log though, when i cant even run my car because i just installed 4in intake and headers.
An e-tune or mail-in tune is not going to be precise. It will be based on an estimate of the changes you've made if you do actually install a 4" intake and headers with other stuff. It should be enough to get it up and running, but it's not going to be as dialed-in as if it were on a dyno.
An e-tune or mail-in tune is not going to be precise. It will be based on an estimate of the changes you've made if you do actually install a 4" intake and headers with other stuff. It should be enough to get it up and running, but it's not going to be as dialed-in as if it were on a dyno.
Just do it once and do it right.
10-4 on the tune! Still no alignment. Im over here changing my mind with finances, and not feeling alignment issues (lower speed short commute now). I may actually do valve cover gasket and motor mounts first. Im tempted on the plenum spacer but i would be driving a long time, without the tune. I will definitely post up alignment sheet if i do it.
Edit: Im really thinking about it and i may skip the plenum spacer. Mainly, because idk how noticeable a little power will be, and reliabilty first. Im stoked to get suspension, tires, and brakes perfect. I may actually be happy with the power. More is always better, but im not trying to race people. I just want to enjoy it, and i think it will be fun enough once suspension is dialed in. I also found SOHO motorsports in North Carolina, is just over 4 hrs from me. It seems like an expensive shop, but they are vq specialists and offer engine rebuilds, or blueprinting. I may just hunker down, and save for something like that after this year. I mainly want to be able to keep this thing running til the 300k mile mark, Also, I would love to have it so reliable i could drive for 60 miles WOT, braking hard. If im upset about the power, ill just get a corvette too, w travlee lol
Last edited by luv350sass; May 10, 2023 at 02:21 PM.
Whether you're driving it hard or not, with your alignment off, you're going to be shredding your "new" used tires again, so another trip to the used tire store will be in short order.
Soho is a good place. That's where I got my Z tuned. They know their stuff. Nik is a good dude.
If you want to do a ghetto alignment you can loosen the rear camber bolt and turn it so it pulls the rear camber arm/traction link? whatever it's caled in a bit, There little notches on the bolt washer you can refernce, I would suggest marking it before loosening just so you don't forget
If you want to do a ghetto alignment you can loosen the rear camber bolt and turn it so it pulls the rear camber arm/traction link? whatever it's caled in a bit, There little notches on the bolt washer you can refernce, I would suggest marking it before loosening just so you don't forget
so wait a min, this is once i have adjustable arms right? because from what others are saying, im assuming without the arms only toe or something is adjustable. regardless, its likely i will get the regular alignment still before the special one. Because, I think we are still a few months out on all the suspension parts, install, and specialty alignment shop bill.. Unless, i get another loan lol
