I mean including parts.

 

wow, thats pretty good. the oem valve covers and gaskets on z1 were 439.99. it says theyre on sale too. my shop acted like it was suggesting, that they charge way more for it. They got me for 500 which i feel is fair.

The engine mount labor really threw me off, but they said it was extra difficult


I may have screwed up, we will see when i return it. i rented, and they gave me a dodge challenger, and didnt walk around it w me. I walked around quick, but mainly looked at the paint. Two rims are pretty curbed and screwed up. I hope they can tell i didnt do it, since the tires are perfect. the lower grille in front is all broken too. I tried to brake and dodge it, but im pretty sure I hit a small bird at high speed and did that.. There is a chance it was always like that.

regardless, i would still decline their insurance that only covers minor damages, next time. its so expensive, that ive saved enough money declining it, to equal paying for some bs like this. I also dont have full coverage and told them i did, to save money.

 

What gaskets exactly? The spark plug tube seal gaskets are pressed into the valve covers and not replaceable.

What was wrong with the motor mounts which required replacement?

 

well, I guess im not stupid for doing whole valve cover, not just gasket. The spark plug tube seals were definitely the problem.

Nothing I know of was wrong with the motor mounts. Im definitely doing this out of order, suspension should have been one of the first.
I had the motor mounts already (one of the many parts to refresh and stiffen the car). My shop said it would be a little bit easier while doing valve cover. I was hoping to save on labor.

 

Easier to replace the motor mounts while doing the valve covers???



If you believe that, I've got some beachfront property to sell you in Nebraska.

 

lol i asked him if it was and he said "well theyre right under there so its a little bit easier". lol.

but i guess he played me because i thought it would be atleast an hour or two of labor saved the way he said it. Anyways, i got the car back! Im kind of excited because he said the bushings were bad in the old motor mounts. I can feel the difference. My shifter no longer vibrates like crazy, the feedback feel in shifter when holding it is better, and vibration in cabin less. yet suspension feels almost a little stiffer and better. no suspension work was done. just replaced old oem mounts with vibratechnics street/track version.

 

HELP! I crashed my 350z into a pole on thanksgiving! - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion

 

lol I wouldnt recommend that.

 

Thanks thats awesome. I cant read that whole thing right now. Dudes alot dumber than me but hes trolling.

returned the rental challenger without being charged extra! parked the nose in a tree at employee parking, so they couldnt see w out moving it. it was parked up at the time.

I just found out that the guy who runs the successful shop i goto, is a police officer 2 days a week on weekends. Makes me respect him more, because he stays busy and stays over alot at shop. Plus hes the owner and works on alot of the cars too, even though he has multiple techs. Its kind of funny though because ive been in there multiple times after smoking, he straight piped my car, and once i told him i might enjoy it on public roadways lol.

edit: Im still worried about that metallic vibrating noise that heel said could be the flywheel chatter, or travlee said maybe exhaust or heat shield. I just hope you all are correct. I will have it looked at next time. Is there any piston rings or anything in the engine that would sound like that on low rpms? I try to avoid low rpms, so i hear it most when i start in first gear, and dont take off with my aftermarket clutch. more of a slip the clutch and ride the lower rpms, because im in a parking lot or something.

 

Does the noise go away when you're at a standstill and you depress the clutch pedal?

Do you hear the noise if you're putting it under load in a higher gear at relatively low speed?

 

When im at a standstill it doesnt do it at all. the flywheel makes a grinding/rough, not really metalicy or ringy noise, that goes away when i press the clutch pedal to floor. Im assuming thats normal and unrelated.

I may need to run more tests and pay attention, since i try to avoid low rpms generally. It does do it in other gears than first. Usually when i dip just below 2k rpms. It definitely is a metallic ring. Plus, it does do it more under load, like if im pressing the gas pedal running low rpms. I think it was the loudest and worst ive heard, when i went too low before in 4th or 5th gear, and tried to just press the gas to raise rpms.

 

my guess is the heat shield

 

I will check it out.

Btw, i did some stop and go tonight at a very low speed. I noticed the rpm gauge dips real low when it bounces off the bottom, as i cruise to a stop in neutral. Plus, while still entering neutral before depressing clutch pedal, if i deppress the clutch pedal while rpms still up some, it bounces even lower and makes a quick noise similar to the other noise. idles somewhere around 800 or 900 i cant remember. bounces off 400 or 200 if clutch pedal is depressed, even in neutral.

The first main noise im hunting, may be clutch or flywheel related. since it pretty much doesnt do it if i slip the clutch like crazy or engage more quickly at higher rpms. Im not used to that though. It will take off smooth with a real short small clutch slip, but still make the noise as you run though the lower rpm range. Its like it wants you to slip it like crazy to avoid the noise. Ill actually slip it in first and coast forward, then slip it in second and fully engage second. Maybe I could engage first and avoid the noise, if my tires were better and on the ground. Then i could give it more power instantly in first.

edit: im going to try to get this on video someday. I havent noticed it on cold starts, but after recently running it and starting, it bounces real low off the bottom, and sometimes sounds like its going to die.

 

So i took 3 videos. The first one where rpms hang high, is when it hasnt been started recently. I released the clutch pedal in neutral and noticed more of an effect on the tachometer though, if you notice it wiggle a little towards the end.

the second one you hear me side step the clutch and it really doesnt affect rpm guage this time, that was starting after running 45 mins ago

the third video you notice, it dips the most after starting, thats after running it ten mins ago. Sometimes it sounds like its going to die when starting after running recently. I think its very strange that even with the stick in neutral, sometimes releasing the clutch pedal midly affects rpms.

it also may do this at certain times when just reving and letting it fall in neutral, dropping out of gear, or inching forward.

edit: I just took it to the sketchy supra dude for only a simple tire rotation.. he said the idle is kind of low too, and asked if i ever tuned it. it died multiple times when he started it, because it had ran recently. he said maybe i need to clean my throttle body, or something. carfax says throttle body cleaned at 15,000 miles, and thats it. They also let me go for free again. They said i was going to wreck if they rotated my tires, because the bad ones would be on front. So two more new or used tires here i come!

I had trouble attaching vids, used youtube. It actually died immediately after starting this morning! I ran into the store to get a kombucha drink and came out, started it twice! I hope its okay.

https://youtube.com/shorts/jJXcWw3nxzA

https://youtube.com/shorts/CN62qiRhUfo


https://youtube.com/shorts/6t9FsDap9CA


on a completely seperate note, the first noise i was chasing, happens everytime you dont give it enough revs on hill. I found this out because the tires i got last time were not sporty. They got real slick. my driveway is so steep that i have to enter it at an angle slowly to avoid scraping. So there were a few times, I wouldve been doing a burnout at the bottom of my driveway, and ended up going into gear more ,than slipping clutch and reving up driveway. It makes the low rpm metalic noise if i screw up.
I do think it may be trans related.

got tires today 255/35/r18. vdc was flippin out, I have to turn it off everytime now. I didnt think profile from 40 to 35 would matter much. also e brake light and abs is on now.

sorry trying to give all info lol

 

Your videos don't load from the YT links. They're private.

I don't understand this "slipping the clutch" thing. What are you doing exactly?

Did you get 255/35/18 all the way around? Only the rear or the front? If staggered, what sizes are you running F and R? More used tires?

As far as it stalling when "warm," this can be due to several things possibly MAF or TB related. What codes are you getting when it dies?

 

Thanks for the heads up! The youtube videos should now be public and viewable, sry..

The startup thing worries me the most, plus the idle is a little low. heres the basic short version of whats going on. I txted this to friend. Even if im repeating myself, maybe itll be more straightforward. No codes btw when it dies, unless i can have a code with no CEL?

so idle seemed a tad lower and tachometer moved diff after aftermarket flywheel and clutch. I also am running a lil lean from exhaust and the intake already on it, w out tune. exhaust installed same time as flywheel and clutch. I didnt notice this issue immediately. but if i start it when i havent been running it in a long time, its fine and has a higher rpm warmup. if i start it after running it, the revs fall way too low after they go up, on the way back down. sometimes it even dies. then it bounces back up to the slightly lower than at first idle. ive also experienced it when dropping out of gear to neutral, or creeping in first slipping clutch and revving. it bounces too low off the bottom and idles a lil low

i have 255 40 in front, but 35 in rear. I only got two used tires for rear. This time they were more sporty. bridgestone potenzas with some tread. 150$. I guess im not that worried about the tires and vdc, since they wont last long. You may have even told me not to run 35s. It was either that, or 245 40. I need to reread this thread again.

I do think its strange my ebrake and abs light comes on though. Those lights came on after tire install, and occasionally they will turn off, then come back on another time. My brakes do suck though. They have fluid.

 

There can most definitely be stored error codes even if the SES light is not on.

So, you're running 255/40/18 in the front and 255/35/18 in the rear? The front should be fine since that is only a 1 mm overall diameter increase over the stock size. Your rear tire/wheel setup is now 42 mm smaller in diameter which is a 6% decrease. I'm 99% certain that's your problem. There's no reason you should be running a taller tire than the rear unless you want the "Carolina Squat" look. The 245/40 in the rear would have been closer but still a 4% difference which would not play well and likely still cause problems.

There are a lot of threads about the "bouncing idle" or "sputtering during warm up" phenomenon. It could be any number of things like the TB, throttle position sensor, MAF, fuel quality, etc.

I watched your videos. I don't see anything unusual. On a cold start, the idle will be higher and then level off around 650 +/- 50 rpm after it warms up. If the engine is already warm and at normal operating temperature, it will not idle at the same high rpm on startup. I figured this would be common knowledge.

 

awesome thanks! I guess i will have to get the codes pulled, or maybe just not drive alot, and have my shop check it out. As far as the videos, what i thought was strange was

1. in the first video where its a cold start, i released the clutch pedal in neutral, towards end of video. It makes the rpms move down and back up. When its warm, the clutch doesnt affect rpms much.

2. the last video where it is fully warmed up and driven recently, it bounces once real low off the bottom of rpms. This is when my car can die when starting. It worries me that rpms go so low, i dont want to harm engine. Its not that it constantly moves, its just when it bounces off the bottom. its actually a pretty steady idle.

Yes, the reason i purchased that size of tire, was simply to "get by", until i get literal new ones around suspension work time. It can cause the ebrake and abs light to come on though? Atleast its just brake lights, and my brakes still work.

The thing you were asking about with slipping of the clutch, was when i was talking about that different metallic noise. When i had slick tires, I had to slip the clutch in 1st then 2nd multiple times, to get up my steep driveway without making the noise. Otherwise i would go into 1st gear too low rpm and it would make the noise. I was unable to enter 1st gear high rpm because slick tires. Im convinced its trans related. So, i guess im not that worried about it either. I may try to secure heat shield better to make sure.

thanks again for all the help. i know i type alot and overthink. I probably need to chill out. It seems fine except the low rpm bounce off the bottom. Im trying to save for suspension rn. Transmission mess still not settled, but it seems like it will work out in my favor. i will update once i have new trans

 

When you engage the clutch, you're basically taking some of the load off the engine which causes the RPMs to change. This is normal.

Because physics and the momentum of the flywheel.

But it should not be dropping to the point of stalling. Something is wrong.

Your taillight brake lights don't illuminate?

 

I think my tail lights illuminate lol but havent really checked. I meant the ebrake and abs warning light on dash, are on. (once used tires were installed) Thanks again, i did not know that about clutch, i thought in neutral it shouldn't affect it at all. The dropping to the point of stalling, is not when i mess w clutch. its just when its warmed up and the rpms are falling back down, they go too far. even when turning it on.

two random thoughts,

i plan on replacing battery soon, just because this one would need terminal grinded, to get everything connected the proper way. (because friend beat on terminal and mushroomed head of it). Any suggestions on batteries? I was looking at a bosch one on rock auto.

I like lightweight. I also wont be playing music or using it much. i may occasionally use lights, or window, with car off.

Also, these tires.. I plan on getting 4 new super nice ones. Im trying to plan how to do it, with suspension install and alignment. I could get the new tires right before, or maybe even during the suspension parts install. Then there would be new tires, so they can test drive when doing alignment or whatever. Or, i could save my money, and get the suspension done a week quicker. Then once im on the road and aligned get new tires. I dont want them now because i will destroy them on one side