You can add my build thread to the links as well. I used a LQ9 to save on money and I'm doing heavy NO2 and boost so i wanted the iron block. Also used the company i work for www.chasebays.com wiring harness coupled with a computech racing datamaxx LCD dash.

Here are some videos of the new spin tech exhaust i welded up the other night. Car makes 478hp and 440tq NA with bolt ons and cam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NV6AAumjG8


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWhaR7oxtjI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyngWy2unaI


here is the old magnaflow that i had, it was to big and it was the only muffler that was a 3.5 in and out and I'm running a single exhaust because of the sedan layout i did not want to cut any of my rear lip off.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODlB_9HuLjQIf you have any questions you can feel free to PM me or ask questions. We help with these swaps all the time with wiring, fuel line kits, and new power steering kits as well.

Thanks,
-Logan

Logan@chasebays.com

 

As far as AC lines go i have outsources a company to make me lines with the GM compressor side fittings and the Nissan clip style fittings on the other end to have a plug and play kit.

Also seems like you guys are having problems with wiring. I don't want to step out of line trying to promote the company that i work for and get banned. But we offer a lot of products for this kits from complete plug and play harness to the chassis, you figure out the wiring for the cluster because we do not use any of the CAN bus system at all. I used a after market LCD cluster but with the help of dakota digital converting signals is not hard


Thanks,
-Logan

 

goddamn that is hot.

 

What about wiring for the ac system? I see on your harnesses that nothing is mentioned about ac.

 

For the AC compressor there are only 2 wires they can be added if the customer specifies it. All of our harness are built to order so we can assure that our customers get exactly what is needed for their setups.

Ill post the name of the company that im using for AC lines when i get home later. I havent had time to test any of the line as im still looking for a AC compressor bracket and its close to winter now so my need for it slowly went away but i know i need to get back on it before summer is here.

If you have any questions or need anything else let me know.
Thanks,
-Logan

 

^logan! its dimitri! i had justin leave both wires for both ac units in my harness in case i decided to either use the z or ls condensor.

my understanding is the only function of those wires are to kick the clutch fan on. id be interested in seeing what is needed to get the ls ac unit to work for ease of install. worst case scenario, fab a bracket ot mount the z unit, but it will run off the unified meter if im not mistaken and operate like factory. does this sound correct?

 

Question for those that have done this swap.

Do you guys get any CEL's ?

I'm asking since my state only does obdII checks and would need the car to be able to pass.

 

If your doing the swap and running into any issues feel free to ask me. I've been through it all and try to help others so you wont have to go through all the crap I did to have everything perfect.

Wether it be the install of motor specs or best setups. Feel free. Good Luck

 

Thanks for the offer but we already have a thread for questions so your thread has been merged with it.

Feel free to add your input to any questions that arise here.

 

Fafonfoe - What clutch/flywheel setup are you running?

Trying to figure out what I need to keep from running into issues with hard shifts making the pedal get stiff. Its slipping a bit over 5K rpm, so I don't think its just a glazing issue, although I came from a carbob/carbon setup so I will try to make a driving adjustment to confirm.

 

^i would go mccleod twin disk. i hear nothing but good from that setup

 

Im running a Spec 3+ and flywheel and adjustable wilwood master cylinder and have no problems with slipping. I can get good deals on spec since they are local here in AL

 

Well let me take a **** in your icecream then. The mcleod twin disc was responsible for blowing my engine and while I am now running one(the correct, but custom one) I say buyers beware. The stack height on my twin disc was .2" too tall so when I bolted the transmission up it put some forward load on the crank which was enough to wipe out my thrust bearing and #4 with it...I replaced the clutch (due to it slipping at 700miles) and they sent me a custom replacement that was the correct size but the damage was already done and the motor went 500 miles later. I will say this though, that clutch is (when working) ridiculously streetable. I first had the RST which you couldnt tell from stock then switched to the RXT which is very grabby but still better than 99.99% of the clutches used in the vq/6sp setups. So if anyone plans on purchasing a mcleod CHECK THE STACK HEIGHT FIRST!!!

 

^good info! I had to replace the disk on my spec 3+ setup, and spec sent me the 11 3/4 inch disk instead of the 11". They upgraded the kit apparently and enlarged the disk size. Now I just wait for the new disk to come in so I can finish this skank

 

I've got a ACT twin disc, 950lb-ft rating, and adjustable for longer wear life.

 

dang..link?


+1 on fafanfoe's info. he's the reason i switched my lines, and took all the precautions he did.

 

Grrr... I was looking at the McLeod RST as an option. Checked the master fluid today and its dark and milky. I will replace and see if it helps the sticky clutch.

 

I plan on contributing to this thread in the future.

Selling my s13 track car, and using money to = pay it off my 350z/buy a LS1

 

Don't count them out just call, explain what you "heard" and they will set you up with the right clutch. Lee is the guy to talk to. Even though the wrong one blew my engine, im going to run the RXT that they made for me in my upcoming setup. Its going to be an absolute NA monster and I need all the help I can get from the clutch.

 

Can you tell a big difference in driveability with the extra weight with the iron block?