good deal, doesnt make alot of sense anymore to drop $xx,xxx on a fully built VQ. I wish the LS swaps were more available 2 yrs ago when I started my 2nd motor built.

 

Fluid1 likes your post :tup:

 

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...ll-thread.html

A rough install guide with info on what not to do since I had to pull the motor and trans twice because SIKKY doesn't include directions.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...nuff-said.html

Rough engine assembly and cost info here too.

I will be sure to include info when the car is finally running. I know that Vas and I thought the hard part was over when we got everything installed and harnesses made, but it seems like much time is spent sorting all of the small issues out. At least this is my experience since I am using a stand alone and want everything to work like stock.

 

live and learn man, i've been down that road too and it sucks. cass has been down the whole block with his numerous setups lmao.

hopefully with these next couple builds coming to fruition, there will be enoufg info readily available to those who want to do the swap, and itll be virtually painless. it sucks discovering **** along the way and ripping everything back out for something so small. ps went to gm, that plug was $4.62 and special order

 

Thanks. I've read every post in each of these threads. I'm sure to start my own very very soon, with a list of **** I have, am getting, need, and any of your guys' advice is going to be awesome. I want to thank all of you for blazing the trail and making it easier for people like me...

 

as a token of my appreciation, ive sent you a link to my paypal for reimbursements for trail blazing

 

After all the reading, I'm pretty sure I'll be needing my spare change lol

 

the only thing the ac wire is for is to kick it on and kick it off. so youd retain all the factory z components as far as ac sensors. just require custom lines. or you could use the z ac unit and make custom lines and brackets - justin

i believe the z ecu controls the compressor?

 

Not clear on who is/ins't doing it, but if anyone here is keeping EVAP, how are they doing it? letting the Z control all the purging/venting and getting it disabled in the GM ECU so it doesn't throw a code?

 

I was going to run the EVAP I have decided against it now. I'm just going to vent it and disable the GM PCM EVAP code.

 

I'm officially tranny hunting now. (lol)

 

If I were to do it again. I would buy a bare block and build from there to match your goals. Given you want 550 rwhp you'll either need some RPMs or more displacment, either will require a built bottom end. You can get L92 heads with flow enough for 600+HP for about $500 but you'll probably want them ported if you are shooting for 550 at the wheels. If money is no object Lingenfelter heads are pretty sweet. I went to Flow Tech Induction to get a custom speced cam and valve train, Ed Curtis will hook you up!

If you're going to use the Sikky shifter you'll need the GTO T56, or you'll have to swap out the rear housing of the transmission to get it all lined up. I personally think the GTO is the worst geared T56 of them all so for me that was a deal breaker, hence my route of the Magnum, which is also a PITA.

You'll probably want the GTO type accesory configuration so the alternator is down low vs I have a Vett config and the alt. is up high right in the damn way of everything. Then get a custom wiring harness and source a PCM or go stand alone, again which ever suites your needs best. GM sells nice LS harnesses with everything you need but there are lots of options here. You'll also need to either convert to a cable throttle or use a DBW, in which case you'll need to get the pedal assembly as well, also GM can hook you up here too.

The worst part about doing a bare block is getting all the accessories but you'll have everything exactly how you want. It's probably about a wash in the end on price differences of buying a pull out motor and trans vs just building from the ground up, but I haven't run the numbers.....it scares me

That's my $0.02

 

Well damn. Sounds like I just got myself into some ****! Sweet
Sounding like the tranny is going to be the biggest pita

 

Took my wife for her first ride in the 630z today which is funny given its been running for almost two months now.

It put a instant smile on my face again and reminded me why I went this route...150ft burnout from a roll in 1st and 2nd gear!!!! Instant torque and tall a$$ gears for ftw!

 

I can't wait... but it will be a while.

 

Just a general heads up to guys considering the swap. There is a coolant fitting on the front of the LS2 (drivers side just below the TB) that works with the crossover from the heads. This should get plumbed into the top section of the radiator.

Having the whole front pulled back off to put this on since some idiot (me) ran the tabs to hold the fans through both the radiator and AC condenser

 

Not sure if this question has been asked before but I have been doing a lot of research and reading swap guides/books. I originally started this for converting my 240z s30 with a chevy 350, but then realized the ls1 was more the way to go. After reading lots of swap related posts on LS1tech I found that some of the guys were going with the Lq4 iron block used in the trucks and SUV's. Essentially it is an LS6 Motor. I know their are differences such as the heads and cams etc. But I was actually wondering if this engine would fit in the 350z z33. I believe the engine overall is the same dimensions of the LS1 but just different mount points. If so, I may be doing the LQ4 swap into the 350z and the VQ swap into the 240z s30.

 

the lq4 will mount up the same. Its basically just a iron block ls2 on the outside. The engine accessories will be different from ls1/ls2. There is a sedan with a lq9 with slight head work and cam making like 470 whp.

the vq 240z sounds sweet, but that sounds like more of a headache to complete than ls1 350z.

 

I have a lq4 water pump if you want it...

 

Anyone have a part number for the speedhut tach?