The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
This is a very informational thread. Thanks for all the contributed info.So just a recap and some questions. I have been eyeing this swap and researching since I bought my G last year. Now it seems the t56 tranny is the tranny of choice..my question is how strong can these be made to handle boost compared to a built auto 4l80e. Also fd on the stock rear is 3.5, BBS once he tries his lower fd I wonder how it would drive with boost...I am on the verge of using a 3.3/3.2 FD with boost setup.I think the 3.2 would be sweet...of course it would need to be a custom gear. How are you guys doing with the auto 3.3 swap?
Wiring wise, Chasebays is hands down the choice for simplicity and sanity... Logan is using the Computech dash and wonder if they can utilize the AIM MXL dash instead. This choice is more of a want since I would like a clean look instead of having multiple gauges when going boost.
I am sure as we are evolving with this swap, rear end will be the key. I can see the monstrous V8 tearing out the rear end, so planning to do reinforcement to keep it together and planted when dragging but still enjoy it on the street...I've read someone had already tore the rear end.
Anyhow, not really a post of information but just brainstorming and thanking everyone for this informational thread once again.
Wiring wise, Chasebays is hands down the choice for simplicity and sanity... Logan is using the Computech dash and wonder if they can utilize the AIM MXL dash instead. This choice is more of a want since I would like a clean look instead of having multiple gauges when going boost.
I am sure as we are evolving with this swap, rear end will be the key. I can see the monstrous V8 tearing out the rear end, so planning to do reinforcement to keep it together and planted when dragging but still enjoy it on the street...I've read someone had already tore the rear end.
Anyhow, not really a post of information but just brainstorming and thanking everyone for this informational thread once again.
Last edited by ducky; Jan 22, 2012 at 08:33 PM.
^you'll probably finish before me too lmao.
gotta switch everything from my currently built ls1 to a new iron block, my ls block has a crack and hairline fractures along the starter mount which constantly sees torque from the starter so im not chancing it. and i gotta make a fat skidplate for the turbalurb
gotta switch everything from my currently built ls1 to a new iron block, my ls block has a crack and hairline fractures along the starter mount which constantly sees torque from the starter so im not chancing it. and i gotta make a fat skidplate for the turbalurb
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
This is a very informational thread. Thanks for all the contributed info.So just a recap and some questions. I have been eyeing this swap and researching since I bought my G last year. Now it seems the t56 tranny is the tranny of choice..my question is how strong can these be made to handle boost compared to a built auto 4l80e. Also fd on the stock rear is 3.5, BBS once he tries his lower fd I wonder how it would drive with boost...I am on the verge of using a 3.3/3.2 FD with boost setup.I think the 3.2 would be sweet...of course it would need to be a custom gear. How are you guys doing with the auto 3.3 swap?
Wiring wise, Chasebays is hands down the choice for simplicity and sanity... Logan is using the Computech dash and wonder if they can utilize the AIM MXL dash instead. This choice is more of a want since I would like a clean look instead of having multiple gauges when going boost.
I am sure as we are evolving with this swap, rear end will be the key. I can see the monstrous V8 tearing out the rear end, so planning to do reinforcement to keep it together and planted when dragging but still enjoy it on the street...I've read someone had already tore the rear end.
Anyhow, not really a post of information but just brainstorming and thanking everyone for this informational thread once again.
Wiring wise, Chasebays is hands down the choice for simplicity and sanity... Logan is using the Computech dash and wonder if they can utilize the AIM MXL dash instead. This choice is more of a want since I would like a clean look instead of having multiple gauges when going boost.
I am sure as we are evolving with this swap, rear end will be the key. I can see the monstrous V8 tearing out the rear end, so planning to do reinforcement to keep it together and planted when dragging but still enjoy it on the street...I've read someone had already tore the rear end.
Anyhow, not really a post of information but just brainstorming and thanking everyone for this informational thread once again.
D- tryin to be iron man like me now eh
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
In the nicest way possible i wont be releasing my AC line info because the lines are about to be put in production for us. For either location. Top mount and bottom mount style compressors. The kit will also have a optional slim condensor to fit with our tucked radiator.
I was browsing your products and hands down, great craftsmanship.
In the nicest way possible i wont be releasing my AC line info because the lines are about to be put in production for us. For either location. Top mount and bottom mount style compressors. The kit will also have a optional slim condensor to fit with our tucked radiator.
As for the lines I was a bit worried, I did find a local shop/company who can do the lines for me as well...pretty much any kind of high pressure (hydraulic) lines that can do...but the tandem of having the tucked radiator and slim condensor is appetizing.
I have been reading this forum for a while and have not heard much about a tucked radiator. What is this? May want this for my build.
EDIT: OK looked it up. Sounds cool. What does it sacrifice? Just be cause it pases the coolant twice, how do you know you are still getting cool air and not heat soaked from the first pass? This is me just thinking outloud so please clarify.
Thanks,
EDIT: OK looked it up. Sounds cool. What does it sacrifice? Just be cause it pases the coolant twice, how do you know you are still getting cool air and not heat soaked from the first pass? This is me just thinking outloud so please clarify.
Thanks,
Last edited by Rambo; Jan 23, 2012 at 06:54 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
I have been reading this forum for a while and have not heard much about a tucked radiator. What is this? May want this for my build.
EDIT: OK looked it up. Sounds cool. What does it sacrifice? Just be cause it pases the coolant twice, how do you know you are still getting cool air and not heat soaked from the first pass? This is me just thinking outloud so please clarify.
Thanks,
EDIT: OK looked it up. Sounds cool. What does it sacrifice? Just be cause it pases the coolant twice, how do you know you are still getting cool air and not heat soaked from the first pass? This is me just thinking outloud so please clarify.
Thanks,
If I were to do it again. I would buy a bare block and build from there to match your goals. Given you want 550 rwhp you'll either need some RPMs or more displacment, either will require a built bottom end. You can get L92 heads with flow enough for 600+HP for about $500 but you'll probably want them ported if you are shooting for 550 at the wheels. If money is no object Lingenfelter heads are pretty sweet. I went to Flow Tech Induction to get a custom speced cam and valve train, Ed Curtis will hook you up!
If you're going to use the Sikky shifter you'll need the GTO T56, or you'll have to swap out the rear housing of the transmission to get it all lined up. I personally think the GTO is the worst geared T56 of them all so for me that was a deal breaker, hence my route of the Magnum, which is also a PITA.
You'll probably want the GTO type accesory configuration so the alternator is down low vs I have a Vett config and the alt. is up high right in the damn way of everything.
Then get a custom wiring harness and source a PCM or go stand alone, again which ever suites your needs best. GM sells nice LS harnesses with everything you need but there are lots of options here. You'll also need to either convert to a cable throttle or use a DBW, in which case you'll need to get the pedal assembly as well, also GM can hook you up here too.
The worst part about doing a bare block is getting all the accessories but you'll have everything exactly how you want. It's probably about a wash in the end on price differences of buying a pull out motor and trans vs just building from the ground up, but I haven't run the numbers.....it scares me
That's my $0.02
If you're going to use the Sikky shifter you'll need the GTO T56, or you'll have to swap out the rear housing of the transmission to get it all lined up. I personally think the GTO is the worst geared T56 of them all so for me that was a deal breaker, hence my route of the Magnum, which is also a PITA.
You'll probably want the GTO type accesory configuration so the alternator is down low vs I have a Vett config and the alt. is up high right in the damn way of everything.
Then get a custom wiring harness and source a PCM or go stand alone, again which ever suites your needs best. GM sells nice LS harnesses with everything you need but there are lots of options here. You'll also need to either convert to a cable throttle or use a DBW, in which case you'll need to get the pedal assembly as well, also GM can hook you up here too.The worst part about doing a bare block is getting all the accessories but you'll have everything exactly how you want. It's probably about a wash in the end on price differences of buying a pull out motor and trans vs just building from the ground up, but I haven't run the numbers.....it scares me
That's my $0.02
Im up on the fence with a built t56 tranny or 4L80e
Last edited by ducky; Feb 1, 2012 at 06:00 PM.
bough it off a guy from indiana, built by a local shop. the gears themselves are strong, theres just upgraded parts in the trans. iirc it can hold around 1000+ he was making 850+ without a hiccup. had it for 1k miles and swapped to an auto. check out the t56 magnums or tr6060, but youd need a custom drveshaft as they are a bit longer i believe
If money isn't an issue here's the route I would have gone: http://www.rsgear.com/products/trans...tranzilla.aspx
and I'd probably go with either one of the bottom two gear sets they have listed depending on power goals and usage.
bough it off a guy from indiana, built by a local shop. the gears themselves are strong, theres just upgraded parts in the trans. iirc it can hold around 1000+ he was making 850+ without a hiccup. had it for 1k miles and swapped to an auto. check out the t56 magnums or tr6060, but youd need a custom drveshaft as they are a bit longer i believe
good info, thanks!!!....I'm going turbo.I just need to solidify my plans, now time to see how much this tranzilla tranny costs.
Also just to note fueled performance will make any driveshaft you need to whatever tranny you want to to run.
Also just to note fueled performance will make any driveshaft you need to whatever tranny you want to to run.
hmmm, well I pulled the trigger and decided to go the LS route, but I prefer NA for now. So much info on these pages but there are a couple questions. This will be my daily driver
some quick questions for anyone game to answer
1. would stock T56 work for 500-550whp? I'm asking because of its supposed ease for this swap. thinking about GTO LS2 engine/tranny drop out.
2. Anybody running PCM and Z ECU for emmissions/smog purposes? seems feasible although a little antiquated
3. how much of the stock accessories can be retained, such as AC, PS, ABS
EDIT: 4. is there a difference between a "magnum" T56 and "regular" T56 - again most likely coming from ls2 vette or GTO
haven't seen a swap yet with the last 2 questions here or I probably just missed it
you guys are some mother****ing trailblazers
Last edited by Skrilla; Feb 2, 2012 at 05:51 AM.