The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
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From: Texas
Well, I just bookmarked this. I saw a while back in Street Magazine, I think, about a guy that dropped a LS2 in his Z. After reading the article it made me want to jump on it so bad! I don't have another vehicle, so unfortunately, I have to wait. I plan on doing a LSx swap eventually. Hopefully, a LS7 
this can be done using the stock z/g *****? or an aftermarket switch? **** i hate wiring dude.
+1 
Mine is wired so that the light on the AC control actually turns the compressor on and off. If the light is on, the compressor is as well. Its not the switch itself, its the light in the switch that tells the compressor to turn on, that way they never get out of sync.
It looking more and more like if you really want a seemless wiring swap there are only two solid options, Diebold Autosport and Chasebays. This is just my personal opinion. Possibly, some other places may be able to provide quality work if they had access to the car at the time they are building the harness.
Mine is wired so that the light on the AC control actually turns the compressor on and off. If the light is on, the compressor is as well. Its not the switch itself, its the light in the switch that tells the compressor to turn on, that way they never get out of sync.It looking more and more like if you really want a seemless wiring swap there are only two solid options, Diebold Autosport and Chasebays. This is just my personal opinion. Possibly, some other places may be able to provide quality work if they had access to the car at the time they are building the harness.
+1 Mine is wired so that the light on the AC control actually turns the compressor on and off. If the light is on, the compressor is as well. Its not the switch itself, its the light in the switch that tells the compressor to turn on, that way they never get out of sync.
It looking more and more like if you really want a seemless wiring swap there are only two solid options, Diebold Autosport and Chasebays. This is just my personal opinion. Possibly, some other places may be able to provide quality work if they had access to the car at the time they are building the harness.
Mine is wired so that the light on the AC control actually turns the compressor on and off. If the light is on, the compressor is as well. Its not the switch itself, its the light in the switch that tells the compressor to turn on, that way they never get out of sync.It looking more and more like if you really want a seemless wiring swap there are only two solid options, Diebold Autosport and Chasebays. This is just my personal opinion. Possibly, some other places may be able to provide quality work if they had access to the car at the time they are building the harness.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
Our harness will run through the stock location of the stock VQ harness right above the battery and fuse box and we can make the harness one of two ways. Use your factory chassis plugs and make the LSX harness completely plug and play to the factory chassis plugs or have it done in our race/standalone style with individual fuses, relays, and switches. Unlike sikkys re wiring service our harness is 100% brand new with all new plugs, pins, wire, and loom and does not use the factory nissan ECU.
Our wiring digram will be similar to the stock harness with the exception that we have measured out our own lengths to "tuck" the harness out of sight.
Our harness will run through the stock location of the stock VQ harness right above the battery and fuse box and we can make the harness one of two ways. Use your factory chassis plugs and make the LSX harness completely plug and play to the factory chassis plugs or have it done in our race/standalone style with individual fuses, relays, and switches. Unlike sikkys re wiring service our harness is 100% brand new with all new plugs, pins, wire, and loom and does not use the factory nissan ECU.
Our harness will run through the stock location of the stock VQ harness right above the battery and fuse box and we can make the harness one of two ways. Use your factory chassis plugs and make the LSX harness completely plug and play to the factory chassis plugs or have it done in our race/standalone style with individual fuses, relays, and switches. Unlike sikkys re wiring service our harness is 100% brand new with all new plugs, pins, wire, and loom and does not use the factory nissan ECU.
So this is interesting. There is a lot going on inside those few sentences. I would have to see how this affects me in Texas. In California the VIN had no engine association. They would punch in the VIN in their smog diagnostics machine merely to identify the car, who it belonged to and where to place the pass/fail signal when notifying DMV (or DPS or whatever your states motor vehicle division is called). Not as a way to access whether or not the ECU belonged to the VIN/engine. I had 3 different PCMs in my previous car and never reflashed so a VIN association would be impossible. As long as the smog (aka emissions in some states) sticker was planted on the inside of the hood so the correct smog index was legible you were fine. I will find out how that works and shed some more light. I'm not sure how universal that info is but seeing as how california is the most strict for emissions it may still be ok for the swap as long as your new motor isn't poluting. Motors are thrown in engines all the time as well as replacement ECU's/PCM's so having to have the VIN implanted could make sense from a money making standpoint industry wide but I don't think that is whats happening. We gotta have a Smog Tech somewhere on the board. IF the ECU stores the VIN then I will bastardize the Chevy PCM with the Z VIN, connect everything emissions related to it and and the Z ECU to control everything else (alt ABS, etc). then maybe place the Chevy scanner port where the Z port is and maybe relocate the Z port or something. I'm sure there are others looking for that daily driver that is compliant. IDK might work, I'm just brainstorming out loud, lol
Well emailed my tuner,HP tuners can't store the actual VIN of the car...unless HP has an update. However Tunercat(interfaces with HP I think )can and he has done it but it's a miss and hit. Sometimes it stores and sometimes or doesn't...anyhow my car will pass state smog nonetheless
Last edited by ducky; Feb 7, 2012 at 06:50 AM.
Well emailed my tuner,HP tuners can't store the actual VIN of the car...unless HP has an update. However Tunercat(interfaces with HP I think )can and he has done it but it's a miss and hit. Sometimes it stores and sometimes or doesn't...anyhow my car will pass state smog nonetheless
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
^ Looking nice D!
I am in the process of starting Z33Art 3.2 already with some sick new things happening! Looking forward to getting the car cars next to each other (even though mine will still make yours cry)!
I am in the process of starting Z33Art 3.2 already with some sick new things happening! Looking forward to getting the car cars next to each other (even though mine will still make yours cry)!
i need boost by gear lmao. ps, were gonna have to make a track day for all of us at gld. im goin for a healthy 13.1 @ 165, w/ a 3.1 60' ft give or take lol
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
^^^^^ stop taking pictures of your engine bay and get that thing running already D!!!!!!
13.1 at 117 was what i ran spinning through 3rd all the way down the track with -3 deg of camber and 35psi on stretched out 255's
Just traded my 102mm for a 92mm and a 92mm plate to get this NO2 setup finalized and shoot for high 600's
13.1 at 117 was what i ran spinning through 3rd all the way down the track with -3 deg of camber and 35psi on stretched out 255's
Just traded my 102mm for a 92mm and a 92mm plate to get this NO2 setup finalized and shoot for high 600's
^^^^^ stop taking pictures of your engine bay and get that thing running already D!!!!!!
13.1 at 117 was what i ran spinning through 3rd all the way down the track with -3 deg of camber and 35psi on stretched out 255's
Just traded my 102mm for a 92mm and a 92mm plate to get this NO2 setup finalized and shoot for high 600's
13.1 at 117 was what i ran spinning through 3rd all the way down the track with -3 deg of camber and 35psi on stretched out 255's
Just traded my 102mm for a 92mm and a 92mm plate to get this NO2 setup finalized and shoot for high 600's
Now that some more people have gotten their cars to the level of being able to start them I'm curious where people are mounting the PCM/ECU and running their main wiring harness? Pictures if you got 'em!
For those who are going turbo what are your final power goals? I am thinking 600whp with a close linear tq curve on 10psi. Making it a comfortable street car.If needed I can still increase the boost pressure. Here is my basic plan:
Iron block:
Diamond/JE Pistons with steel top ring
Manley connecting rods with arp bolts
ARP main studs
Head will be simple;
LS3 head
upgraded valvetrain
ported Intake
zr1 cam
Mount kit:
Fueled racing Mounts, oil pan and driveshaft
Turbo kit:
76mm turbo( spec'ing out the actual ar/housings still)
custom turbo manifolds
Fuel and PCM:
1000cc high imp injectors
twin walbro or bosch fuel pumps
methanol injection kit
Hp Tuners with Gm PCM
Chasebays wiring harness
Transmission:
rossler 4L80e
paddle shifter
*still sort of up in the air on the auto, figured a all out t56 will cost a bit more with a twin disc setup. autos just seem more consistent.
Of course there is more small stuff that adds up quick but this is the bulk of the expenses. I can save an easy 5 grand going all motor but told myself might as well go all out and dont look back.
Iron block:
Diamond/JE Pistons with steel top ring
Manley connecting rods with arp bolts
ARP main studs
Head will be simple;
LS3 head
upgraded valvetrain
ported Intake
zr1 cam
Mount kit:
Fueled racing Mounts, oil pan and driveshaft
Turbo kit:
76mm turbo( spec'ing out the actual ar/housings still)
custom turbo manifolds
Fuel and PCM:
1000cc high imp injectors
twin walbro or bosch fuel pumps
methanol injection kit
Hp Tuners with Gm PCM
Chasebays wiring harness
Transmission:
rossler 4L80e
paddle shifter
*still sort of up in the air on the auto, figured a all out t56 will cost a bit more with a twin disc setup. autos just seem more consistent.
Of course there is more small stuff that adds up quick but this is the bulk of the expenses. I can save an easy 5 grand going all motor but told myself might as well go all out and dont look back.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
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From: alabama
Not all but most people are running a engine harness from chasebays. They back half of the engine harness allows you to mount the ECU on the passenger side kick panel or behind the glove box. its a pretty bulky ecu to try and find a nice spot from.
@quamen- You hit the head on the nail all motor i made 478hp and 440 tq stock heads and block only bolt ons cam and supporting valve train for the cam. With tax returns coming i think i will be investing in a set of heads.
@Vas - If you are running 3 inch collector headers you can run a LT1 3 inch y pipe thats what bbs350z did. I built my own after ordering some 3.5 inch pipe and some vibrant flanges.
what's your setup? I am having mine custom done with a local shop who has a mandrel bender in house. I think I can have him make a few for us just need to know measurements/CLR and he can do it. I remember a few years back I needed a IC piping so just took measurements and a wire hanger for the CLR and he made it for me lol.