I got mine from tick-performance.com they had it completely torn down and all new everything for $1,500.00 and came with a 1 year warranty. It is rated at 1,000 ft lbs

 

1. Stock trans should be fine for your power goals you listed.

2. You can use both ECU's its worthless though. Each state is different for smog testing. Some have to have the vin match the car. But you will still be throwing codes if you ran the stock ECU so you would fail smog. If it is only a sniffer test then you should be fine only running the GM PCM with some kind of CATS. I know the ls3 e-rod will pass emissions.

3. All of the stock accessories can be retained. The company i work for sells power steering kits to work with the gm power steering pump and comes with its own reservoir. The ABS system runs off of its own computer and is still retained when using just the GM PCM or using both ECU's either way it will still work.

4. Not sure im sure someone can help on this one

 

Thanks for the info I appreciate it, I will also hit you up aobut the Cruise Control, now that I moved from Cali to TX I found I could actually us it. Now you may have answered question 4 inadvertently along with question 1. I just read with part of bbs350z, QTB and ducky's post about different custom drive shaft as a possible result of the Magnum tranny, but I'm just hoping the sikky kit has that covered. Any facts about that

 

In reply to your questions:
1. The reason for switching isn't a power/torque reason, at least for me. It's simply gear ratio based. OEM T56s are rated for 400-450 lb-ft depending on what you get it from. But keep in mind that is a continuous rating, not peak. You can probably double that.

2. I think most people are running both with a few exceptions, but to my knowledge it's not for emissions but rather ABS, VDC (if equipped) and the braking force distribution system.

3. All of these can be retained as far as I know.

4. The major differences of the Mag and the 'regular' is again gear ratios and the Mag is rated for 700 lb-ft (continuous). As I mention above the key dimensions are different. The internals are slightly more robust on the Magnum but a well built T56 will take all sorts of torque.

Keep in mind my car isn't running yet so take everything I say with a grain of salt. Some of the others with driving cars may have better responses.

 

The sikky kit is okay. The only part I really like is the oil pan and motor mounts, but the Fueled kit pushes the engine back a little further. I have modified or not used many of their components. The sikky kit will not accomadate a Magnum, not even close. Save your money and dont get the shifter if you go with them and a Mag. You'll have to do something completely custom, like this





I have access to fun things

 

LOL...nice.

Ya I noticed Cass and Quamen's different placements of the engine. So it sounds like the regular GTO motor/trans fits without issue so I'm going to go for that. I can imagine Cass pulling up on a mustang and the owner wondering wtf is under his hood

 

yes I also came across their site.They have decent prices.

you have the avenue of making one off/cool mods to make things work and you do a great job.

With the sikky kit I also like their mounts and oilpan compared to fueled. But with the fueled as you mentioned it's placed back further,more room for a turbo kit.

Anyone have a good top view of the sikky and fueled kits?

 

Here's my sikky fittment:

Here's another and the reason not to go with a Vett drive line fitment:

 

^^^Thanks. That's a tight squeeze for a turbo most def with the vette accessories ...looking at my bay Turbo placement would be in driver's side near headlight.

 

wow, ya you definitely need more room, sikky looks tighter than I want but I will have to take it

 

Is yours a level 2? going through their site in detail and one rated for that much torque is 4500 bucks with uprated gears and the whole shebang.

 

mine is a "viperized" trans and at the time when i purchased it it was not nearly as expensive.

QTB - the people that are running both ECU's are the ones that were originally wanting their factory gauge cluster to work properly. The reason was just to send the GM signals through the can bus system of the original VQ ecu. After testing we found that you can run the dakota digital signal converters with the stock cluster and the stock GM ECU to have a functioning stock cluster. In order to retain traction control you would need to have the traction control unit and throttle body cable (depending on what LSX motor you decided to go with). ABS still functions with only the GM ECU. With our harnesses you can still read codes and tune through the DLC plug that we supply. But from what customers have told me they try and read for the vin of the car when they read the ECU. If you kept the stock ecu it would read faulty codes i assume ( just a guess considering nothings being read from the stock sensors).

 

So this is interesting. There is a lot going on inside those few sentences. I would have to see how this affects me in Texas. In California the VIN had no engine association. They would punch in the VIN in their smog diagnostics machine merely to identify the car, who it belonged to and where to place the pass/fail signal when notifying DMV (or DPS or whatever your states motor vehicle division is called). Not as a way to access whether or not the ECU belonged to the VIN/engine. I had 3 different PCMs in my previous car and never reflashed so a VIN association would be impossible. As long as the smog (aka emissions in some states) sticker was planted on the inside of the hood so the correct smog index was legible you were fine. I will find out how that works and shed some more light. I'm not sure how universal that info is but seeing as how california is the most strict for emissions it may still be ok for the swap as long as your new motor isn't poluting. Motors are thrown in engines all the time as well as replacement ECU's/PCM's so having to have the VIN implanted could make sense from a money making standpoint industry wide but I don't think that is whats happening. We gotta have a Smog Tech somewhere on the board. IF the ECU stores the VIN then I will bastardize the Chevy PCM with the Z VIN, connect everything emissions related to it and and the Z ECU to control everything else (alt ABS, etc). then maybe place the Chevy scanner port where the Z port is and maybe relocate the Z port or something. I'm sure there are others looking for that daily driver that is compliant. IDK might work, I'm just brainstorming out loud, lol

 

by the way Brew you guys sell some good stuff

 

The Nissan ECU will not control the ABS it has its own ECU. From what i know the LSX ecus are unlocked depending on VIN's so im not 100% sure if you can place a nissan VIN on there you might want to call a tuner that works with HP tuners and ask it might be possible. Our harnesses have a long enough DLC plug to locate in the stock scan port location.

 

Damn unlocked based on VIN, I'm seeing a tuner on 17th or 18th who supposedly does chevy PCM reflashes so I will check on that too.

Thats awesome will make things easier

 

I'm going to use HP Tuners, I'll find out if replacing the VIN can be done as well.Luckily here in Vegas the ViN is only scanned for information purposes for identity of owner/driver/vehicle.

Also with trannies to get a well built tranny manual or auto it will be in the 4000+ range for either but the with manual you have to factor in the fw and clutch so it'll be more.

But with that price range you can throw everything at it.

With th 4L80e though a paddle shifter can be used

 

the sikky kit sits far enough forward that o cam only get my finger between the front of the water bell housing and my koyo rad. however with a kit that sits further back, keep in mind some aftermarket valvesprings/retainers require taller valvecovers which might not fit.

 

Its if you have a taller rocker setup, most likely with a larger ratio. The spring height stays the same no matter which aftermarket spring set you have.

So if you drop the nissan ECU what controls the AC?

 

AC is controlled through the chassis not a ECU. So turning on the AC (which is only 2 wires to the compressor) is done by pressing a button in the cabin (which goes through relays in the chassis)