I went with the CJM twin 255 assy

 

I had twin external Walbro 255's on my car.

 

Quamen,

as i roll back through the pages and read i see alot of information about your car, at one point you mentioned going with a full stand alone system would simplify wiring. This is exactly the route i am pointing towards. A stand alone like holley HP or Dominator with their ls1 harness would be a great option for me since my car will be forced induction and a max effort build.

as of now i have NO wiring on the car ( its a fire recovered shell). i got a great deal on an entire interior and the wiring along with it, no wiring past the firewall however(engine harness). how would you suggest a stand alone be used? will we still have to "splice" the two together?

keep in mind as well i have no problem using aftermarket gauges, or a whole cluster for that matter. My only concerns are keeping regular functions like power windows, headlights, power steering, heater/AC buttons and such.

i appreciate all and any words of wisdom you can throw my way.

 

from what i understand, the chasebays harness retains all of the z's original function (save traction control; if you want cruise they can do it but there's a couple extra sensors they have to wire in) and you don't splice any of your existing stuff into it.

 

Do you currently drive an ls swapped Z? is this the route you went? thanks for your answer.

Cruise and traction control are really of no concern to me. Im going to shoot them an e-mail and see what exactly they would put together.

I have been trying to get a hold of Jordan Innovations but no one ever answers the phone and voicemail is full. I have also talked to someone over at Wiring Specialties and they said they have done many race applications where most of these functions werent needed. They also proposed to use my car to prototype a plug n play harness that will work with the nissan canbus system.(spelled that right?)

Im not sure if that will be feasible for me, i really want to educate myself more and put it together myself ( meaning not dropping it off at a shop )

 

I would pass on chasebays

 

Stockish, why havnet you reached out to PSI and Current Performance, those are the highest recommended wiring guys in this thread (and on LS1 Tech, for that matter)

 

You know I'm not yet, no need to be a dick about it. The info above is based on numerous emails back and forth to get details sorted out before I start spending money.

 

I didnt know about these shops, i will surely contact them thanks for the tip.

 

Why would you take that offensively ? It was a genuine question, i dont know at what part of your build you are at, and im certainly not someone to bash other ppl and their builds.

 

Jordan Innovations is a great place to get the harness done but as you can see they are very busy.

I myself have a Psi harness but haven't wired up yet,probably in a few weeks I will start doing all that jazz.

Stock-ish I'm really liking your build. You have lots of good stuff going on.


I'm doing a twin setup and even with the Fueled setup it's a tough one let more using the Sikky kit. I may have a found a way to make it work using an OEM front accessory layout and/or some after market brackets. I'm really not trying to use a narrow/topmount kit made by the likes of Billet specialties, March performance etc...it is costly and I rather use the money elsewhere.

I already figured out the passenger side with A/C, now I'm working with the driver side. The Fueled Racing kit sits far back so any regular top mount kit will not clear the strut towers. Bottom mount alternator really does not give room plus the downpipe routing . I may use a transition to oval for the downpipe just to get more clearance.

As for the manifolds I have not made a concrete decision on what to use , truck manifolds I have on now, also the z28 passenger side flipped may give some good clearance as well for the driver side.

If I have to I will get a shorty tubular manifold made to hug the block as much as possible. I am also looking at the hooker cast manifold and flipping it but waiting on dimensions to see if it will even be close.

Well back to the garage..

 

Thanks! I much rather wait and save and get the parts i want right off the bat, i started gathering parts since 2011 but it seems there are always more important things going on and prolonging the project. Since i started this build ive had 2 babies and right now im closing in on my first house , so you can see how one would get busy lol.

As far as the accessory drive for me i use a gmpp system, same layout as the cts-v . It has cleared everything great! I will be using A/C as well so i was limited on downpipe space, a 4 inch in my case. But im just going to run a bullet style muffler and dump it in front of the passenger tire for my street setup, i will make a 5 inch elbow downpipe straight out of the hood for track days.

I have re-worked the design of the truck manifolds alot to make them fit up and forward . The hooker cast ones are a very nice piece and they bend alot at the collectors, im not exactly sure which way you plan on trying them but most likely have to be cut. I will post some pics of my work on the manifolds later today.

 

Here is how the manifolds turned out, they are still a little rough, i sprayed some paint on them while they lay around the garage for now. When all my hot side goes in the car for good im going to sand it down a bit , hi temp coat them and wrap everything.

i quickly slapped everything together so that i could mock up all the plumbing, you can spot the motor , quicktime bell housing and my most prized possession , brand new TR6060 with Ticks performance level 5 build good for over 1000RWTQ

and the sleeper outlaw style turbo mount.

 

Looks great!!! I went 4L80e That turbo...OMG.

You happen to have a pic of the GMPP CTS-V accessory drive mounted? I actually pieced the Holley accessory mount kit with the ctsv drive components but scratched it.After two weeks of measuring I'm still on the fence for manifold placement. This will depend on drive accessory setup apparently.

 

I keep saying "i went with the gmpp" as a force of habit. Its one of the few items i still need to buy.
A friend of mine has a 6.0 with that accessory drive bolted on in an engine stand in his garage. So i have test fitted my headers on that. If you google you can find pics of all the setups, vette, trucks, f-body and ctsv (essentially the same as a f-body layout) with their exact measurements.

the vette is too wide and hits the strut tower, trucks is narrow but too high and it hits the hood ( i have it ) f-body and ctsv is the way to go. I think you are better off planning your headers around the system and not the other way around.

in my case i still have room to keep AC compressor and route a 4 inch downpipe sandwiched between the top water neck and the manifold, but im simplifying and taking the weight savings and dumping it out front. An old timer once told me the best exhaust is no exhaust lol.

is it a must for you to route downpipes all the way to the back? is this a street car? how big are the turbos/downpipes?tubular headers out of the question?

 

I will be running twin 35r sized turbos with 3"DPs and full exhaust.It will be street driven. I'm am having a tubular front made for this car to have more room in general. As for manifolds a shorty tubular or equal length is not out of the question. I'm just on a tight schedule now so on a time constraint and getting a custom set done may take too much time.

As for front drive accessories I do like the ctsv line, I'm going to see if I can mock a setup from someone locally.I did get all the measurements but I am a stickler to have everything in front of me physically to be sure.

 

If you want more info on turbo 350z stuff look up oneguysgarage.com he did my turbo setup. Single billet 76 on the passenger side

 

Nice build, i bet its a very angry spooling setup. Motor size and what numbers did you reach?

 

This my LQ4 with a 4L80E transmission. Almost done

 

that looks awesome! keep up the progress!