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Official STS Rear Mount Turbo Discussion Thread

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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #2921  
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a rear mount STS kit is very easy to get spotted by the cop in Cali, if thats any concern of yours.

BP or STS have the same clearance
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #2922  
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they are both great kits .
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Old May 22, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #2923  
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need some help guys i been getting a random cylinder misfire and bank one being to rich. I just changed the spark plugs thinking they needed to be changed after 10k miles. But still getting these codes. i tuned at 15psi but am only hitting 10psi now and just yesterday my intake connector sleeve blew off. I am at a loss i will check for vacuum leaks and re check the spark plugs. but don't know what is the problem is. Any help would be greatly helpful.
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Old May 24, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #2924  
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have you tried switching the coilpack?
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Old May 24, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #2925  
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to busy to go online but glad this thread is still alive.. lol

Update.. After almost 2 months of waiting my order finally arrived.. This thing barely fit my 19" Volk SF Challenge..

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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 10:02 PM
  #2926  
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so i got the car tuned with utec, and it runs fine except idle is a bit rough and the car stalls out if i slowly let the clutch out with no gas or if i do a pull when i hit 2-3lbs of boost and put the clutch in.
so.... im hoping its the spring in the tial bov is wrong and thats causing the bov to stay open and stalling the car out and causing the rough idle. Its the stock spring that came with it so its a 10lb spring if i remember correctly. this is the chart im basing it off of, since all the old tial charts are dead.
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...-Valve-Springs

Originally Posted by JonnyC
I'm running the STS kit, which I have found has some more compressor surge issues than a standard turbo. I ended up running a -9 psi (IIRC) spring with a stainless washer as a spacer. This allowed the BOV to open faster without (as much) compressor surge when letting off the throttle at lower boost pressure than the -11 psi spring did.

I would say just try out the -11 psi spring, see if it's closed at idle and opens quickly without any surge. If not, just order the -9 psi spring.
I searched and found this but i dont have any compressor surge as of right now so i was thinking of getting the 11lb spring (yellow), but would like some more opinions on what springs you guys are running and how do you like your spring/ bov combo?
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #2927  
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Originally Posted by guvars
so i got the car tuned with utec, and it runs fine except idle is a bit rough and the car stalls out if i slowly let the clutch out with no gas or if i do a pull when i hit 2-3lbs of boost and put the clutch in.
so.... im hoping its the spring in the tial bov is wrong and thats causing the bov to stay open and stalling the car out and causing the rough idle. Its the stock spring that came with it so its a 10lb spring if i remember correctly. this is the chart im basing it off of, since all the old tial charts are dead.
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...-Valve-Springs



I searched and found this but i dont have any compressor surge as of right now so i was thinking of getting the 11lb spring (yellow), but would like some more opinions on what springs you guys are running and how do you like your spring/ bov combo?

Clean your MAF/TB and do an idle re-learn first and let us know if makes a difference.
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 01:43 PM
  #2928  
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i tried cleaning the MAF when i first installed the turbo kit about a month ago before the problem started.
I will try the idle air relearn later on today.

I also have the p1444 code which is the evap canister/ valve. I've cleared the code only to have it return a few days later. Is the valve easy to replace with the turbo on or do i need to unmount the whole rear section?
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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 06:27 AM
  #2929  
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good news. i tried the new 11lbs spring and the idle is steady and she doesnt die on me anymore. so the bov is closing now. Changing the spring in the bov also somehow cleared the p1444 code. its been a couple of days and it hasnt returned, knock on wood.... Downside is that now im getting some turbo flutter. so i went ahead and bought myself a real hks bov and that should stop all of my troubles with the springs. Im just waiting to get a new pipe made with the flange. ill keep you guys updated.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #2930  
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Hello, new here and this is my first post along with the recent purchase of my first Z.

I skimmed through the first 15 pages or so, but not all of them if someone can direct me I'm looking for detailed step by step install pics of this turbo.

I am sadly also already seeking help.
I just made a blind purchase on a 350z.
The vehicle is equipped with an sts side mount turbo and built engine.

The individual who owns the vehicle does not know much about it, but he did manage to drive it off road and rip a hole about mid pipe on the intercooler side to turbo.

I'm wanting to have this repaired. Does STS sell just the pipe or would you suggest I have it cut and weld a new piece in?

My primary concern though is transferring it home. It will be apprx. a 5hr drive.
He said it smoked on the exhaust side with the turbo due to burning oil.

My theory is if I was to remove the intercooler pipe between the bov and engine, replace it with a filter and clamp/plug the oil line to turbo would I be able to drive the vehicle as if it had no turbo.
What is the typical fitting size for oil line and how do you recommend plugging it. I also understand it may drive rough due to ECU tune but should it be fine if I'm gentle with it?

I have pics available of damage. Literally just a ripped hole in turbo pipe.

Many thanks in advance - Gillian
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 07:55 PM
  #2931  
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Hello, new here and this is my first post along with the recent purchase of my first Z.

I skimmed through the first 15 pages or so, but not all of them if someone can direct me I'm looking for detailed step by step install pics of this turbo.

I am sadly also already seeking help.
I just made a blind purchase on a 350z.
The vehicle is equipped with an sts side mount turbo and built engine.

The individual who owns the vehicle does not know much about it, but he did manage to drive it off road and rip a hole about mid pipe on the intercooler side to turbo.

I'm wanting to have this repaired. Does STS sell just the pipe or would you suggest I have it cut and weld a new piece in?

My primary concern though is transferring it home. It will be apprx. a 5hr drive.
He said it smoked on the exhaust side with the turbo due to burning oil.

My theory is if I was to remove the intercooler pipe between the bov and engine, replace it with a filter and clamp/plug the oil line to turbo would I be able to drive the vehicle as if it had no turbo.
What is the typical fitting size for oil line and how do you recommend plugging it. I also understand it may drive rough due to ECU tune but should it be fine if I'm gentle with it?

I have pics available of damage. Literally just a ripped hole in turbo pipe.

Many thanks in advance - Gillian
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Old Jul 29, 2013 | 10:37 AM
  #2932  
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Does anyone happen to have a good picture of an uncut sts wire harness? Here is mine which the previous owner hacked up pretty good. Can anyone tell what I am missing? I'm pretty sure there's the toggle switch missing, but other than that?

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Also, does anyone have any information on if I wanted to use the pump to drain back to an oil pan spacer, instead of back to the pcv as the instructions state? What would this take- would I just not install any of the pcv hoses or the pressure switches or valves?
Any help greatly appreciated!

Last edited by AT1222; Jul 29, 2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 01:46 PM
  #2933  
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Has anyone ran the sts system with no cats AND removed the stock resonator? Right now I have resonated TP's but the rest of the stock exhaust, and it isn't as loud as my old aftermarket exhaust and I'd like it a bit louder. If I cutout the resonator, will I hear more "exhaust" and less of the whistle(this is what I was told would happen), or will this also promote the whistle being louder as well as the exhaust and not cause the exhaust to drown out the turbo? I love the way it sounds now with both just too quiet
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #2934  
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dont do it. i cut out the mid pipe resonator when i first installed the kit because i figured it would spool quicker and the turbo would quiet down much of the noise... its way too loud, and it spools just about the same.

I ended up trading with a friend of mine for a stock uncut mid pipe.
The sound is much, much better, as far as tone goes, theres barely any rasp.
You hear the loud spool sound much clearer.

I have a similar set up with resonated test pipes.
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #2935  
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i had a straight pipe before and I hated the sound. I like the exhaust a little quieter because you can hear the turbo and BOV much better. With the TP, I can barely hear the turbo spinning and the rasp is just annoying after a while... Anyone can have a loud fart exhaust but you cant replicate the sweet turbo sound when spooling..

Turbo spinning wildly FTW!! Loud fart sound FTL.. but that is just me
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Old Sep 10, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #2936  
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Alright thanks guys, I will just leave it as is then. I will try to get some vids up of my HR shortly, still waiting on my dyno charts from Z1

Do yall experience a "flutter" sound when you let off on easy shifts not in boost? I think this is normal and isn't bad for the turbo but I just want to be sure. I had the 11psi spring in the bov(I think that was what it came with), but it didn't open soon enough and I was getting real flutter at the turbo, so I put in an 9 psi spring and it's better, but I feel like its still too late. It doesn't seem to make the same bov sound I hear in videos, it is just a weak "pshh", though that may or may not be because I have the bov before the intercooler as I did not want to buy another one for the other intake. And it is still closed at idle, so I may try to grind down the spring to make it a little smaller diameter(the correct way to make a spring weaker, not by cutting it)

Also, did we ever prove that wrapping the exhaust helps performance of the kit? If so I will do that as well

Last edited by AT1222; Sep 10, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 12:42 PM
  #2937  
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what you hearing is a compressor surge especially at lower rpm. I have always had that but my turbo still run ok. I would worry if you get compressor surge when you are actually hitting higher boost..

My BOV dont sound mean unless i'm letting go at full boost/WOT and higher rpm. if I shift around 4000rpm and maybe 1-3psi on partial throttle then the sound is not pronounce too. Have you tried going WOT and maybe shift or let go of the gas around 5500rpm?
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #2938  
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Yes I meant compressor surge, I was getting that very badly before with the 11 psi spring in the bov(on the dyno you could watch it and it would literally be 1-2 seconds late opening), now it's not so noticeable as the bov opens sooner with the 9psi spring, but I still think it could improve.

So "flutter" on easy shifts not In boost is normal and is not surge correct?

Even if I go to almost redline and shift or let off, I don't think it makes the weird noise that I can't explain but I've heard in videos, the "pshh" is louder the more boost I make obviously, but just isn't the same sound.

Also mine came with a precision turbo, not Garrett like I saw somebody had earlier in the forum. I'm not sure if my wg and bov are tial or turbosmart, I think sts changed brands at some point, but my wg and bov are red and I thought they were tial but I could be mistaken as some of y'all's are blue and that could be why the difference in sound
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:35 AM
  #2939  
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I always had the flutter even after putting a better BOV (50mm Tial), So I ended up putting an additional BOV at the back right at the exit of the turbo. No more surging. I do not think we can prevent the surging with such long piping unless you have a second BOV in the back.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #2940  
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Originally Posted by AT1222
Yes I meant compressor surge, I was getting that very badly before with the 11 psi spring in the bov(on the dyno you could watch it and it would literally be 1-2 seconds late opening), now it's not so noticeable as the bov opens sooner with the 9psi spring, but I still think it could improve.

So "flutter" on easy shifts not In boost is normal and is not surge correct?

Even if I go to almost redline and shift or let off, I don't think it makes the weird noise that I can't explain but I've heard in videos, the "pshh" is louder the more boost I make obviously, but just isn't the same sound.

Also mine came with a precision turbo, not Garrett like I saw somebody had earlier in the forum. I'm not sure if my wg and bov are tial or turbosmart, I think sts changed brands at some point, but my wg and bov are red and I thought they were tial but I could be mistaken as some of y'all's are blue and that could be why the difference in sound
what kind of precision turbo do you have? I'm thinking of just upgrading my turbo instead of buying a new BP kit. My turbo is running out of gas at 10 psi. how's the lag and what rpm do you hit full boost and what boost you running?

I have noticed on mine that my BOV doesn't sound as loud as it used too. I'm not sure if it is because turbo is blowing hot air at 10 psi or wrapping some of the charge pipe in the middle with exhaust wrap caused it. I'm just to lazy to go down there and remove the heat wrap...
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