Oil cooler/warmer removal.............
couldnt you guys do this for a cleaner look?
and weld on a fitting on the bottom of the center exit coolant pipe to take advantage of the "pathfinder coolant mod"?
and weld on a fitting on the bottom of the center exit coolant pipe to take advantage of the "pathfinder coolant mod"?
Last edited by bikinilust; Jun 12, 2011 at 11:15 AM.
New Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: FOCO
ok, after reading more i found some more info on this and saw that the DE's do flow coolant at the back of the block up to the rear of the heads right before the coolant exits. however on the HR's they flow up through the exhaust side of the block to the exhaust side of the heads, correct? so after looking at it for a while wouldnt the pathfinder mod still be better? my reasoning is that the coolant on the HR is being heated in the block first then being sent to the heads, and from what i understand is that the only coolant the heads are getting is already heated coolant from the block. where as the pathfinder coolant path allows for the coolant to exit the back of the block and not contaminate the heads with hot coolant. any thoughts?
ok, after reading more i found some more info on this and saw that the DE's do flow coolant at the back of the block up to the rear of the heads right before the coolant exits. however on the HR's they flow up through the exhaust side of the block to the exhaust side of the heads, correct? so after looking at it for a while wouldnt the pathfinder mod still be better? my reasoning is that the coolant on the HR is being heated in the block first then being sent to the heads, and from what i understand is that the only coolant the heads are getting is already heated coolant from the block. where as the pathfinder coolant path allows for the coolant to exit the back of the block and not contaminate the heads with hot coolant. any thoughts?
I went ahead a removed the A/C Condensor and compressor and installed a Mishi rad. My oil cooler still isn't installed but I can tell you 100% that my car is running cooler. My temp gauge would usually stay around 50-53% and now it's runs around 47-50% (I'm not exactly sure what numbers that translates to). Of course, my temp gauge gets to about 5x% while on the track.
IMO, the PF mod in itself isn't worth it without other supporting mods (new rad, a/c removal, hood vents, etc).
New Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 160
Likes: 2
From: Tasmania Aust.
cooling system
Yes its an old thread but its still useful so i thought i add some more easy to see photos for people while at the same time ask some of my own questions
Ok Before we get to the photos ill explain a few things
i have already removed the heater and aircon ( its going to be a track only car)
Its a Australian RHD
Im going to remove the oil cooler/warmer setup completely (Red Lines)
Becasue ive removed the heater and im going to remove the throttle body section as well can i just remove this whole peice and block that port off?
that will remove the air bleeder, any recomendations if i should put it back in somewhere else? ( if find its a ***** to bleed these cars)
Im also going to remove the front bypass hose so i will block both ports on that plate.
Whats this rear by pass line for?
one final question
if ive removed the heater lines
the throttle body lines
the oil cooler lines
and the front bypass line
will that casue the thermostat to not work properly as there wont be any flow there when its closed now?
Ok Before we get to the photos ill explain a few things
i have already removed the heater and aircon ( its going to be a track only car)
Its a Australian RHD
Im going to remove the oil cooler/warmer setup completely (Red Lines)
Becasue ive removed the heater and im going to remove the throttle body section as well can i just remove this whole peice and block that port off?
that will remove the air bleeder, any recomendations if i should put it back in somewhere else? ( if find its a ***** to bleed these cars)
Im also going to remove the front bypass hose so i will block both ports on that plate.
Whats this rear by pass line for?
one final question
if ive removed the heater lines
the throttle body lines
the oil cooler lines
and the front bypass line
will that casue the thermostat to not work properly as there wont be any flow there when its closed now?
Although I haven't performed this task, I think it's safe to say that the bleeder needs to stay in the system at a high point or bleeding all of the air out will become an even more miserable job.
Maybe, and this might be a big maybe, you could plug the firewall end of that hose and the bleeder would still function but I'm pretty sure that there has to be a bleed somewhere in the system at, or very near a high point.
Hope this helps!
Maybe, and this might be a big maybe, you could plug the firewall end of that hose and the bleeder would still function but I'm pretty sure that there has to be a bleed somewhere in the system at, or very near a high point.
Hope this helps!
Ive been driving it 2 weeks in 100*+ weather and my defi temp gauge has yet to go above 206 (stock HR Tstat) so the system seems to be doing fine.
that will remove the air bleeder, any recomendations if i should put it back in somewhere else?
one final question
if ive removed the heater lines
the throttle body lines
the oil cooler lines
and the front bypass line
will that casue the thermostat to not work properly as there wont be any flow there when its closed now?
one final question
if ive removed the heater lines
the throttle body lines
the oil cooler lines
and the front bypass line
will that casue the thermostat to not work properly as there wont be any flow there when its closed now?
-Cut a slit on the back of the "blockoff plate" so that air bubbles can flow from the lower outlet to the upper outlet
- thread in a shut off valve into the top portion of the "block off plate" so that u can bleed any trapped air
As for the deleted rear bleeder, id suggest:
-cut off the rear bypass nipple off the rear coolant pipe and thread in a shutoff valve
- this way you'd at least have a bleeder at a high point
Just my $.02
I deleted the tensioner on the main belt by replacing the lower alternator bracket with a tie rod (seen in one of the pics i posted) no real need for doing this and it was pretty expensive just to clean up things, i think in the end it cost me around $80 for the tie rod and belt when i finally found the proper length. If your interested I can PM you the parts needed but honestly if i could do it again i wouldn't have wasted the time/money.
troof...lol...
either way, my reference is undertray or not ,they get hit and then oil is jetting out everywhere with downward sensors that can easily get hit..
-J
either way, my reference is undertray or not ,they get hit and then oil is jetting out everywhere with downward sensors that can easily get hit..
-J
I can see the clamps, but did u slip a small section of aluminum pipe between them, inside?
that's the only way I can see this working with one clamp to join to hose sections together, with the hoses being butted up together
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, Georgia
may be silly question.....
I have been working on my own custom up the middle V coolant mod for some time now. My question (confusion) is this---
On my 05 nonrev up the rectangular hole/cutout at the front of the engine where the main coolant line passes thru measures only 1 inch by 3 inches. Way to small for the HR pipe.
The above pictures (post #226) shows a black rubber hose passing thru this hole...how is this possible on a DE?
On mine I welded 3 smaller nipples on the modified cast rear return piece that go to 3 smaller hoses that are then able to pass thru the front 1" x 3" hole.
On my 05 nonrev up the rectangular hole/cutout at the front of the engine where the main coolant line passes thru measures only 1 inch by 3 inches. Way to small for the HR pipe.
The above pictures (post #226) shows a black rubber hose passing thru this hole...how is this possible on a DE?
On mine I welded 3 smaller nipples on the modified cast rear return piece that go to 3 smaller hoses that are then able to pass thru the front 1" x 3" hole.
