It is pretty easy. I remember not wanting to unbolt the A/C compressor when I was doing my greddy install. then, I realized how easily it comes off and moves forward to give you more room to work. it is defiantely worth the little extra time it takes to unbolt the A/C compressor. Glad I could be of help.

 

This is courtesy via Mike and DM2 Motorsports We ended up just plugging everything instead of puting on any fittings... this removes so much clutter... just have to wait and see how it will affect the coolant temps and etc, but so much more room now that the oil warmer, TB warmer, rad bypass, and thermostat bypass lines all gone.

 

nice and clean work!

I haven't noticed a bit of difference in my coolant temps and I performed the same elimination of items. car wamrs up quickly and my coolant temps are always rock solid...never varies.

I tried changing the rear coolant pipe (the one that connects to both heads) and it was too difficult with the motor in the car. I got all the bolts off and was about to swap it, but was concerned that I might not be able to get the pipe out of there. I'll sap that pipe when my motor is out of the car. The other pipes aren't bad. the driver's side pipe is annoying with all the greddy stuff in the way though.

 

Andrew can you confirm that it is not possible to get the rear out or it is just very difficult?

 

I was able to get all 3 nuts removed, and I had just started to loosen the 4th (most difficult one). I was concerned that 1) I would probably drop and loose that 4th nut due to it being so hard to get to....and 2) I probably wou;dn't be able to get that nut back on once I swapped the pieces. if I had more time, and wasn't worried about not being able to get home from my shop and sleep that night, I probably could have done it. Then I was concerned about getting it all done and not being able to get everything torque down properly so that I didn't have any leaks........

the difficult nut is the lower one on the passenger side head.

Since I had bypassed everyhting else, my easy solution was just to run a small length of hose ( about 6 inches) from one of the 1/4" ports to the other 1'4" port on that coolant manifold.

 

Sounds good brother, we are going to do Ant's and mine next weekend, we will take some pics and post them up

 

This looks great...looking forward to the install cliffnotes.

 

When you all say throttle body warmer, do you mean the coolant lines that enter the plenum and loop around the throttle body opening?

When you remove the oil warmer, does that interfere with the oil pressure sensor? I'm not exactly sure where the oil pressure sensor is on a stock motor.

Is that the Pathfinder coolant piping in the back of the block? Curious if that's needed for an NA motor.

Also curious that you can just remove the radiator and thermostat bypass lines. It seems like something that would be needed to me, but if you guys are doing it with no problems, it certainly must work.

Fantastic thread, Andrew. You are the mad scientist for sure.

.

 

The oil pressure sending unit is right next to and forward of the oil filter...

The TB heater is the line that loops through the end of the TB.

The pathfinder mod is located on the back of the motor. Probably not neccessary for NA, but if you already have the motor out, might as well do it regardless.

 

John,

Thanks. It looks like gothchick answered most of your questions. I, too, figured that there must be a reason for the thermostat and radiator bypass lines, but I haven't had any issues. my coolant temps are ultra stable! Also, I wouldn't bother with the pathfinder cooling mod. the rear coolant in the pics IS NOT the pathfinder pipe; it is the stock pipe.

It looks like a better mod is to use the HR headgaskets. they redirect water flow is a better manner than the stock or aftermarket headgaskets.

 

Shamwow isn't free. It's made in Germany, serious stuff.

 

how did you guys pressure test the pipes after getting them welded? Any idea how much the welding will cost for this mod

 

To weld the Pass X coolant pipe cost me roughly $20 bux. I just stopped by a local muffler shop and he took care of it. No leaks ---> Just lucky I guess.

 

you can do a basic test by filling the pipe with water and blocking the ends (outputs) with fingers, hand, etc.....and then blow into the open end. this worked for me to test the pipes; I could find where the leaks were very easily.
I had an extra pipe, and I tried welding it myself. (2nd time welding ever.) I did a decent job, and had 2 very small leaks. I ground the welds and added some more weld and I fixed the leaks. I don't know hwy the "professional" I had weld the pipes had such issues with my 1st set of pipes.

 

Is this possible to do with the motor in the car?

 

yes. I did it with the motor in the car. the rear coolant pipe is the hardest piece to remove/install in the car. I ended up not installing my modded rear coolant pipe, but others have been able to do it. mine is still still sitting on a shelf waiting for me to install it.

 

awesome thanks. And i was thinking the same about skipping the rear coolant pipe

 

bikinilust,

you just need to run a short (a few inches long) hose between the 2 small nipples on the rear coolant pipe. one of them used to go to the throttle body....the other went to one of the other pipes. they won't be needed with the other mods.

 

Oh I see. By connecting the two nipples with the small peice of pipe means that you dont have to remove the rear coolant pipe.

 

i think he meant to run a hose from the "TB heater" nipple to the other little nipple that runs a hose to the passanger side coolant pipe. I believe the TB Heater hose is 3/8" or 1/2". By doing so, one can still delete the TB nipple on the Driver side coolant pipe. Nice. Thanks.