Oil cooler/warmer removal.............
#123
New Member
iTrader: (7)
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So basically, from what ive gathered...to remove the oil warmer you would do this: (correct me if im wrong):
-run 2.5' of 5/16 heater hose from passenger side coolant pipe to the thermostat (disconnecting each side of the oil warmer in the process as well as the hardline, which require moving the AC compressor)
-undo the oil warmer (24mm bolt? i forget the size)
-buy a vq35hr oil filter stud and replace existing one
-attach sandwich plate like you would normally
Is that it? Pretty easy or am I missing something?
Thanks!
-run 2.5' of 5/16 heater hose from passenger side coolant pipe to the thermostat (disconnecting each side of the oil warmer in the process as well as the hardline, which require moving the AC compressor)
-undo the oil warmer (24mm bolt? i forget the size)
-buy a vq35hr oil filter stud and replace existing one
-attach sandwich plate like you would normally
Is that it? Pretty easy or am I missing something?
Thanks!
#125
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So basically, from what ive gathered...to remove the oil warmer you would do this: (correct me if im wrong):
-run 2.5' of 5/16 heater hose from passenger side coolant pipe to the thermostat (disconnecting each side of the oil warmer in the process as well as the hardline, which require moving the AC compressor)
-undo the oil warmer (24mm bolt? i forget the size)
-buy a vq35hr oil filter stud and replace existing one
-attach sandwich plate like you would normally
Is that it? Pretty easy or am I missing something?
Thanks!
-run 2.5' of 5/16 heater hose from passenger side coolant pipe to the thermostat (disconnecting each side of the oil warmer in the process as well as the hardline, which require moving the AC compressor)
-undo the oil warmer (24mm bolt? i forget the size)
-buy a vq35hr oil filter stud and replace existing one
-attach sandwich plate like you would normally
Is that it? Pretty easy or am I missing something?
Thanks!
also, while you're at it, you probably want to remove the factory hard line that runs across the front of the motor for the warmer. to remove it, you need to unbolt the A/C compressor to gain acces to one of the bolts that holds the hardline to the block.
#127
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rrmedix,
my point for doing this mod was to eliminate as much of the nissan "emissions" crap as possible. most of these hings are on this motor to improve "warmup" time so that nissan can achieve better emissions certifications.
I like to work on my car and the more stuff I can get rid of, the easier it is to work on.
your suggestion works if someone doesn't want to do a complete removal of the warmer circuit.
my point for doing this mod was to eliminate as much of the nissan "emissions" crap as possible. most of these hings are on this motor to improve "warmup" time so that nissan can achieve better emissions certifications.
I like to work on my car and the more stuff I can get rid of, the easier it is to work on.
your suggestion works if someone doesn't want to do a complete removal of the warmer circuit.
#130
CJ Motorsports
iTrader: (21)
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rrmedix,
my point for doing this mod was to eliminate as much of the nissan "emissions" crap as possible. most of these hings are on this motor to improve "warmup" time so that nissan can achieve better emissions certifications.
I like to work on my car and the more stuff I can get rid of, the easier it is to work on.
your suggestion works if someone doesn't want to do a complete removal of the warmer circuit.
my point for doing this mod was to eliminate as much of the nissan "emissions" crap as possible. most of these hings are on this motor to improve "warmup" time so that nissan can achieve better emissions certifications.
I like to work on my car and the more stuff I can get rid of, the easier it is to work on.
your suggestion works if someone doesn't want to do a complete removal of the warmer circuit.
#136
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
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If anyone is interested in the parts list:
Prices and parts #s from Courtesy Nissan
Passanger side coolant pipe
[14053M] PIPE-WATER
Product SKU: 21021-Z33002
Your Price: $49.05
Driver side coolant pipe
[14053MA] PIPE-WATER
Product SKU: 21022-Z33003
Your Price: $49.32
Driver side coolant pipe gasket
[13050N] GASKET-WATER INLET
Product SKU: 13050-Z33001
Your Price: $1.96
Thermostat gasket
[13050P] GASKET-WATER INLET
Product SKU: 13050-Z33003
Your Price: $3.58
350z HR engine Oil Filter Stud
[15213] STUD-OIL FILTER
Product SKU: 15213-31U00
Your Price: $6.83
Prices and parts #s from Courtesy Nissan
Passanger side coolant pipe
[14053M] PIPE-WATER
Product SKU: 21021-Z33002
Your Price: $49.05
Driver side coolant pipe
[14053MA] PIPE-WATER
Product SKU: 21022-Z33003
Your Price: $49.32
Driver side coolant pipe gasket
[13050N] GASKET-WATER INLET
Product SKU: 13050-Z33001
Your Price: $1.96
Thermostat gasket
[13050P] GASKET-WATER INLET
Product SKU: 13050-Z33003
Your Price: $3.58
350z HR engine Oil Filter Stud
[15213] STUD-OIL FILTER
Product SKU: 15213-31U00
Your Price: $6.83
Last edited by bikinilust; 02-06-2009 at 04:37 PM.
#137
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
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i noticed that the people that have done this mod have powder coated the coolant pipes. Do you guys powder coat the interior of the pipes as well? Im just wondering if its ok for the welds to be exposed to the coolant... I know that the exterior needs to be coated, due to possible oxidation issues. But will oxidation occur on the interior?
#140
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is this the socket we need for the HR Oil Filter Stud?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
that's the one. you don't have to get a snap-on though. I did, but then nmost of my tools are snap-ons......didn't want an odd ball.
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