you only have one dissadvantage now that you fixed your steering angle sensory. Now you can't brake boost lol. When my errors out I can brake boost on the highway cause the VDC switches itself completely off. But when you have it working you have to fool the car so you can brake boost lol.

Good job getting all the little things fixed.

Tom

 

i have question.

i know that APS unchip have a solid tune already. but if am not mistaken its tuned on 91 octane right ??

average temp in here is 20 to 25 degrees.
and am running 98 octane

do u guys think i can push the car without a problem or should i retune it first ??

 

Wait for tune.....

 

Retune - also, are you guys on the american or european scale for octane rating. Europe does it differently and the octane rating seems much higher when its actually similar to 93 octane I believe. Is that 20-25 degrees Celsius? If you are on the metric system you may be using the european octane rating.

[edit] Measurement methods
The most common type of octane rating worldwide is the Research Octane Number (RON). RON is determined by running the fuel in a test engine with a variable compression ratio under controlled conditions, and comparing the results with those for mixtures of iso-octane and n-heptane.

There is another type of octane rating, called Motor Octane Number (MON) or the aviation lean octane rating, which is a better measure of how the fuel behaves when under load. MON testing uses a similar test engine to that used in RON testing, but with a preheated fuel mixture, a higher engine speed, and variable ignition timing to further stress the fuel's knock resistance. Depending on the composition of the fuel, the MON of a modern gasoline will be about 8 to 10 points lower than the RON. Normally fuel specifications require both a minimum RON and a minimum MON.

In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane rating, shown on the pump, is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, the octane shown in the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, is 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and some even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON).

A bit overkill, but it may help.

 

The APS install I did had spot on AFRs. If I remember correctly the car only needed slight tweaking, but was more than safe to run hard out of box. If you have an AFR gauge, just keep an eye on it, and you should be fine...

and your 98 octane is really only 91 -92 octane as far as the tune is concerned

 

I would just be safe and wait till its retuned, but I know not getting into boost is hard. as far as break in, really there is no need if the tune is good, drive it like you stole it once its tuned and af's are fine

 

+1. As I mentioned earlier, I used base map for a year without a hiccup. I draged and drifted a lot with no problem whatsoever. Also, your 98 octane is equal to 92~93 octane in the US. APS used to provide two maps... 91 and 93 map. If you didn't ask the dealer to put 93 map in the unichip, it is most likely that you have 91 map.

 

thanks for all the info given

i just finished around 1000KM as break in. didnt push the car before to feel the power.

took it back to the shop. to get a full checkup.
- all bolts are tight and got them checked all over again.
- some noise from the suspension when turning. got them Fixed
- oil leak from the oil pump adapter ( it was not tightned well ) Fixed
- installed Defo boost gauge with Controler.
- the car run very smooth and no wierd sound or jerking.


took the car. and was sooo to feel the boost. BUT.........

1) pushed the car and i couldnt feel any noticble power.
2) boost doesnt go more then 0.4 bar ( video below )
3) clutch pedal got stuck on the ground 3 times.

i was soo dissapointed, and i thought that everything is fine and i am just not feeling the power. so i asked a friend to try his car next to me ( EVO X stock ) .. and i was 1/2 car a head only. ( when i had full bolt-ons i use to be 1.5 car a head )

SOOOOO Dissapointed. what could be wrong ?????


boost recored:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN3CRGXBR68


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good luck

 

as Ziv said, you prolly have a rich afr and with the 6 psi boost you're currently seeing I wouldnt expect much power. once its properly tuned it'll be night and day difference.

patience my friend.

 

2) Did you tell us which exhaust system you have? If your exhaust is restrictive, you are not going to get much boost. Also, adjust the length of your actuator to get more boost. I feel that you are skimping out on some important advises we gave you... It's either your restrictive exhaust or crappy actuator which I already mentioned in the first page... Base map without tuning is pretty safe and good enough for 360whp~370whp once you take care of the stuff I mentioned above. (I got 370whp with no tuning).

3) I agree with Ziv, but what kind of upgraded clutch do you have? I hope you are not running stock.

 

i didnt skip any advice.

1) i had an extra half round on the actuature as Zivman adviced me.
2) didnt get forge actuature as i didt even test the stock one if its working fine, plus it will take time to be shipped to dubai.


what am running now is maximum 280Whp...

 

do ur rpms skyrocket? maybe you cluch is jacked up since its stickin to the ground, not allowing load and therfor no boost? or boost leak or jacked up ebc?

 

do you have pics of your exhaust setup? Can you get up on the hoist and take a pic. You wouldn't happen to be using the supplied adapter to mate up with your exhaust like in the pics below:




edit:
also, I am not convinced the alignment solved the previous you had. I have personally installed these kits, at least 3 times now and know what a PITA it can be to get that steering knuckle properly aligned.

 

this also may have something to do with it. maybe a pressure plate issue, slipping clutch, improper install. Issues like the OP is having can be very hard to diagnose over the net

 

Yeah, that exhaust adaptor will kill WHP...

 

yes i have the adaptor installed, would it really kill hte WHP that much.

i can only feel the same as stock ( with bolt-ons ) i can feel only around 280WHP.

took the car to the garage today, had it checked all over for any boost/vacum leaks. and nothing is there.

installer is suspecting the tune to be bad, and asked me to retune, after that we can check what would be the problem.


i am installing EVC 6 on satarday then i have tune appointment on Sunday.

 

You cannot run that adapter. No 'ifs' 'ands' or 'buts' that adapter needs to go. Go out and find the APS ST exhaust

The supplied unichip and boost solenoid are plenty capable for what you are running. there is no reason to spend money on an EVC 6 and not spending it on the proper exhaust setup. What is your reasoning for the new boost controller? do not tune it until you get a proper exhaust on it

 

+111111111 What did I tell you in the first page? APS ST is very very very sensitive to the exhaust back pressure. Using that adaptor is same as using a stock exhaust... You put a huge bottle neck and you expect to not have exhaust back pressure?? You really need to open up the exhaust. There's nothing wrong with the base map.. Trust us who have done this several times already.. I helped 4 of my friends with their APS ST installations... I had that horrible adaptor for a week while my custom exhaust was being built, and I know how your car feels like... Feels very stuffed... clogged... BECAUSE IT IS!!!

 

I think you are not quite understanding how sensitive APS ST kit is to exhaust back pressure.. Here is how my custom exhaust looked like. 100mm diameter reverse Y pipe spliting into dual 2.5"(63mm) pipes. Isn't Blitz Nurspec a single outlet exhaust? Basically half the diameter of my custom exhaust... It might be alright if you get rid of that stupid adaptor, but if it doesn't it just might be too restrictive with just one 2.5" exhaust pipe.. Then go with APS dual exhaust. 3 of my friends with APS ST bought HKS true dual (or HKS true dual knock off for $500) and custom fabricated 100mm reverse Y pipe, and one other guy fabricated a new 80mm mid pipe for his Fujitsubo exhaust. <- This worked out too.