My Greddy TT Build, the build to prove you can make high #s without going broke...
just wondering, are you running a surge tank with the inline? Is a walbro 255 inline as efficient as the bosch 044? are you also modifying the stock FPR? I'm trying to figure my own fuel setup. thanks
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 786
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, Pa
Im not running a surge tank before the Bosch. Ive seen this setup done many times over again on other cars with no need for the surge tank. This will be a street car seeing 0 track time, so the need for a surge tank I dont think is really there. However if I ever run into any problems with my setup, its right there and all I need to do in fab up a tank real quick. For now though Id like to see how this setup works as is. There is no OEM fpr, that got deleted with the AAM basic return kit. As per the walbro being able to keep up with the Bosch, this was a concern of mine as well. After talking with a few local people, including blinkerfluid, its seems that the walbro will be alright feeding the Bosch, and that there shouldnt be a "scavaging" affect on the pump. Again this is a new setup that as far as I know has never been done before so we'll see what happens. If it does work though, it'll be a great alternative to those pricey dual and triple intank setups.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 786
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg, Pa
I work at a franchise branch of Ameriprise Financial. I am now currently studying for my Series 66 and Life & Health exams. Once I have those past in the next month or so I will be a cerfitied AFA (Associate Financial Adviser) and will being sitting in on meeting and seeing prospects and new clients....aka Cass007 *cough* lol.
Also I have an update!
The car runs!!!!! We started it up last weekend and it fired right up without a hitch. It was one of the most rewarding moments Ive ever had. The motor sounds great, has no leaks, and for being off on the tune now, idles pretty decent. Here's a pic of the finished motor:

Now onto my only problem. My clutch pedal wont return! I have no clue what is wrong and Im about to go crazy trying to solve this issue. The pedal will get pressure for the 2nd half of the swing/motion but uptop it is almost non existant/mushy. I replaced the slave cylinder yesterday and still no luck. I am today going to replce the clutch line and the master cylinder. Hopefully they will do the trick. If not then I dont know wtf Im going to do. Has anyone ever had this issue before? For reference I am running an RPS Max 6 puck clutch from a 300zx and matted it to a JWT flywheel. And before anyone says Im running the wrong clutch, IT WILL WORK ON THE 350z, and was recommended this clutch from Kyle @ IPP and spoke to Shariff about this clutch also before ordering it was he as well has ran it on a 350z before. So does anyone have any ideas how to fix this?
Also I have an update!
The car runs!!!!! We started it up last weekend and it fired right up without a hitch. It was one of the most rewarding moments Ive ever had. The motor sounds great, has no leaks, and for being off on the tune now, idles pretty decent. Here's a pic of the finished motor:

Now onto my only problem. My clutch pedal wont return! I have no clue what is wrong and Im about to go crazy trying to solve this issue. The pedal will get pressure for the 2nd half of the swing/motion but uptop it is almost non existant/mushy. I replaced the slave cylinder yesterday and still no luck. I am today going to replce the clutch line and the master cylinder. Hopefully they will do the trick. If not then I dont know wtf Im going to do. Has anyone ever had this issue before? For reference I am running an RPS Max 6 puck clutch from a 300zx and matted it to a JWT flywheel. And before anyone says Im running the wrong clutch, IT WILL WORK ON THE 350z, and was recommended this clutch from Kyle @ IPP and spoke to Shariff about this clutch also before ordering it was he as well has ran it on a 350z before. So does anyone have any ideas how to fix this?
. Jon knew he was copying your style on that, but he just fell in love with the look.Can't wait to see this tuned and running strong.... its gonna be a fun summer, usually our cars aren't up at the same time. Hustle up though, the clock is ticking on the airstrip/ZdayZ/carlisle events.
Last edited by Cass007; Apr 25, 2010 at 07:10 AM.
I have been running that exact same clutch setup now for 5 years and have had no problems with it what so ever " SAME HERE KYLE RECOMMEDNED IT TO ME" . pedal feel is pretty hard and the friction point is very abrupt but you get used to it rather quickly. I had the same problem that you are explaining with the soft pedal at the top. I just kept on bleeding it continualy till the air was worked out!! took me around 45 minutes of continual bleeding to get all of the air out. Did you install a new throw out bearing and lubricate inner diameter of the bearing before sliding it on the output shaft? Does the shift fork have play in it still with the clutch fully released?
Last edited by JET MECH; Apr 25, 2010 at 07:48 AM.
sounds like air. I replaced the master and the slave on my car and it ended up being air.
It takes FOREVER to bleed ours. The best thing to do is make a pressure bleeder and pressure bleed it from the slave cylinder backwards. That will push air up out of the res which is where wants to go (up).
You can use a small little pump oil can with a hose attached to it and the slave cylinder nipple to backwards bleed it. It will work easily and fast.
It takes FOREVER to bleed ours. The best thing to do is make a pressure bleeder and pressure bleed it from the slave cylinder backwards. That will push air up out of the res which is where wants to go (up).
You can use a small little pump oil can with a hose attached to it and the slave cylinder nipple to backwards bleed it. It will work easily and fast.








