Total D

iTrader: (5)

Thank you sir. As for higher CR, I have toed with the idea of doing something like 10:1 or something close to that. However I am going to leave that to my engine builder. I am not sure how much higher I would really need to go to actually see it make a significant amount of difference. On the gearbox, I'm going to stick with my stock box for now. Many have had great luck with theirs, so no need to go all out just on the gearbox lol. On the clutch, I am having a custom triple made for me by Monster Clutches.

Thanks again

Thanks man!! You and me both Doing a bit of research here lately, just want to make sure this will be the "do it once do it right" builds. How's your's coming along?

Current specs of the car added to to first post.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

It all sounds good on paper.

You'll have almost 10 large in that dry sump setup alone.


But you are installing the turbos on your current motor for now though right?

Total D

iTrader: (5)

Everything looks better on paper until you start getting your hands into it lol. On the dry sump, I believe it will be quite a bit less o be honest, we will see.

Correct, everything is going on my current build so I can drive it. This way I can have a separate motor being built with the dry sump and still be able to drive my car.

Vq.turbo.DremZ

iTrader: (6)

Cool stuff, Take a look at Aasco's triple. Its pretty new, uses tilton clutch discs and basket. http://www.aascomotorsports.com/Pres...1-11%20TDA.pdf

graffkid732

iTrader: (44)

It's still coming along. I'm about to update thread now actually hah.

Total D

iTrader: (5)

Well got ol' mom and my daughter to take some pics of the parts for me. My daughter, told my mom, "Ma'am, give me the phone, I'll take pictures for my daddy." She's only 5 and works the iphone better than my mom lol. Well I'll be going home this thursday to see her and work on the car a little, so hopefully have some good updates for you guys when I get back.

So here is what arrived of the kit....Still waiting on intercooler, axles, injectors. I am up in the air right now about the engine management....either it'll be the PNP Haltech or Syvecs system.

Now to the pics, because we all know we like pics and shiney things (My Precious).

Downpipes:


Looks I got a shot of her toes as well lol


My Precious ;-P


Oiling system for the bottom/midmount setup


More to come as the parts come in and work is being done on the car.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

make sure to send that plenum out to get ribs welded into it. it flexes under boost. I'm sure Charles mentioned that you already.

Total D

iTrader: (5)

Yea I talked to Charles before I even bought it. I was thinking about doing something such as the LFA. In the intake manifold it has ribs in it as well, actually to tune the sound. Although I know my reasoning is to support the excessive pressure. It would be nice to see that transform note of the Z. Just a thought, but I am for sure getting it ribbed to support the power.

Good looking out.

J

taywan

iTrader: (53)

1300rwhp-thats insane!! Of course in a baddasssss way. Imo I think the hatch would look great color matched. I really like the exterior setup-of course the super boost also!! GL w/ it all. Nice ride ---

Total D

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!!!! Yea I think it is as well, but I want to push it. The more I look at the hatch I think the same, or do a carbon roof, but then the hood would need to back carbon. I never can win lol. Appreciate the kind words The Z in your avatar is really nice, assuming that is yours?

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Damn, now I really want to see your car in person. Come out to the races with your Z sometime.

taywan

iTrader: (53)

Thanks! Yes that's mine. I was thinking the same w carbon roof/a-pillars but then the hood is cf. All you have to do is pop the hood and say 1300-it's over.

Total D

iTrader: (5)

I'll bring her out once she is done.

Haha yea true...I honestly wish it would have got painted, but it didn't. Maybe later on I'll get it done.

Update 2/5: So, I went back home to work on the Z, to start getting everything ready. Right now I am going to use the motor I have and just push it to 750-800rwhp, while my other is being built. I want to drive the car while I wait, as I like doing most of my stuff at one time over a few weeks or so. Some things do take longer, but for the majority it can all be done ina timely manner.

No lift or air tools used this go around. All manual labor so to speak lol. I took the Momentum kit off, pulled the motor, mounted the SP manifolds and turbos, man this setup is so nice. I wish I had done this over my GReddy and Momentum the first time. Dont get me wrong, my Momentum was an awesome kit, and if it had been designed to make the power I am going for, I would keep it. George and crew did an outstanding job making their kits. Reid/Larry/Chris and team did a fantastic job as well with this kit. All I can say is single(Momentum) and twin (Sp)...Those are my choices for kits.

I'll be going back home this weekend to start getting everything ready for the motor to go back in. All I need is ECU and injectors(on the way). I am hoping to have it ready for TX2K13, just to drive around. However I will keep the thread informed of everything else going on with the build.

I'm looking to build a dual 3" and the way the canisters sit make them similar to the Amuse exhaust as well. Thinking Burns mufflers with Aluminum piping. They can keep the Titanium haha. I'll post some pics to this post shortly as I need to upload them.

Thanks for following along.
J

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

good looking build man! excited to see what you can do with it. im still waiting to get my ls motor back for my 240. ended up doing a full work over on the heads and some other stuff so it delayed it out. havent gotten to try the clutch yet!

Total D

iTrader: (5)

Well I guess it's time for a little update you can say. I finally was able to go home for a few weekends in a row to work on my car. I put the motor back in the Z, still have a good bit of work to do but nothing to taxing.

Here are the pictures of the progress so far. It runs along with the last post I put up as well.

The beginning of the end...Motor coming out.

Total D

iTrader: (5)

Since the turbo kit is off and the motor is out, it was time to start getting everything ready for the SP twin 67mm kit.

And here we go.....



CJM action as well...





Going back in..





So, now I sit having to wait until the 21st to go back and get everything buttoned up. Hopefully I'll have injectors and ecu by then as well, should everything go according to plan. This way I can get tuned for a mild 600rwhp for the event in March. Then from there start getting everything ready for the end of the year( As I would like to drive my car for a little while) and going for the big numbers.

Thanks for staying tuned in. I hope this build doesn't disappoint.

Jeremiah

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Lots of work with no lift - congrats on getting it together!

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

My inputs:
Buy my oem block and build it! (Low miles ;D) *shameless plug*

Knife edge the oem crank or go billet, obviously get sleeves, and custom pistons (100mm). Or, something along those lines. Since you're going dry-sump, might as well design the low end to rev to the moon. Rod stroke ratio is similar to the 4g63, so go check out what people have been doing with the long rod strokers (piston, crank, rod ratios) to rev (long rod setups survive better at 10krpm because of less piston movement).

Get the biggest fattest cam you can. They make up to a 300 on custom orders... Not sure how ridiculous that would be, but if there's a setup worth trying something like that, this would be it.

Pick up Nismo VTC Cam gears. They're over a grand but allow 55 degrees of cam advance vs stock 40.

Modify your timing cover so you can get to the cam gears more easily... I know a couple of shops were able to do this successfully. This could come in great if you wanted to test cams... I doubt you'll find a perfect cam setup the first time.

Custom order all your ARP hardware in 625 aged. Get a nice crank girdle (Like Dynosty's).

Get dog box gears cut for your tranny and pickup a ikeya formula shifter.

LOL these suggestions are going to cost you quite a bit, but they're all things I would want to do if I was building a high rpm, high boost Z.

Oh and on your exhaust, go dual to single back to dual. Trust me.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

jeeze resmarted why not just recommend a billet block too =P dont like the whole idea of the long rod setups, you make alot less torque from the smaller arm and its not really needed. i dont see you revving a vq to 10k but other engines with similar rod/stroke ratios to ours going to 8-9k(heck 427 corvette is 7k stock and thats not even overhead cam.) i would be more concerned with our massive bearings and try to make those smaller for less friction.(which would also allow a smaller clearance before spinning them)

as far as dog box, no one makes em for our trans, ppg told me i would need to find at least 5 buyers and the cost would be 20k each lol

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Lol I thought about mentioning a billet block but I said nahhh.
I used to be a short rod guy, but after seeing how much better the 4g's of buschur racing held up with long rod strokers, I became a believer.

But I'm sure someone would be willing to cut gears for the cd009. You could just get an Ikeya shifter and setup flat foot shifting (ignition retard), and still be a baller. (*waits for alberto to come in and say, just learn how to drive and you won't need the Ikeya*)