Total D's New Build: Time for Enyo to get a nice set of twins ;)
02-13-2013, 03:23 PM
#43
eh im still not a big fan, i could see possibly moving the rod up in the piston but im not sure how much would be able to alot of platforms have to destroke for anything significant which i say is a big no no unless building f1(and destroking is what i was thinking you where talking about at first till it clicked. i think i need coffee too much school work programming lately frying my car brain), then theres a matter of finding rods. if someone measures it, then if you could move the rod up 8mm into the piston that would give enough room to run a small block chevy rod(dont think it should be sbc 400 strokers run anywhere from 5.65 to 6 inch rods but thats a different piston design so idk) with honda bearing sizes which would definitely help out.
Last edited by jerryd87; 02-13-2013 at 03:27 PM.
02-13-2013, 08:48 PM
#44
eh im still not a big fan, i could see possibly moving the rod up in the piston but im not sure how much would be able to alot of platforms have to destroke for anything significant which i say is a big no no unless building f1(and destroking is what i was thinking you where talking about at first till it clicked. i think i need coffee too much school work programming lately frying my car brain), then theres a matter of finding rods. if someone measures it, then if you could move the rod up 8mm into the piston that would give enough room to run a small block chevy rod(dont think it should be sbc 400 strokers run anywhere from 5.65 to 6 inch rods but thats a different piston design so idk) with honda bearing sizes which would definitely help out.
Don't the HR pistons have the wrist pins closer to the dome of the piston?
Either way, I'm positive JE could work something out....
SBC rods... Now there's a thought.
02-13-2013, 09:28 PM
#45
not sure on rod location in the piston i know the rods are longer also i know they have a taller deck so it would be easier with those. but yah mostly pro mods run honda bearings rod weight is 533 for the 6 inch carrillos with carr bolts. by comparison the vq35de carillos with carr bolts are 544, the hr rods are longer but also have larger bearing surfaces and are heavier so def something to look into if someone was looking to build that insane. will let you shave almost .19 from bearing diameter as well as not as thick for alot less friction from bearing surface i wouldnt trust anything less then 25w50 though for oil.
but its all hypothetical unless total d does it haha its actually got me thinking wish i was back in ohio so i could start a shop and play around with stuff like this >.<
but its all hypothetical unless total d does it haha its actually got me thinking wish i was back in ohio so i could start a shop and play around with stuff like this >.<
02-14-2013, 01:34 PM
#46
Yea it is, but honestly on the jack stands it works out okay. When I build the exhaust, I will definitely be using the lift lol.
Lot of god ideas man.
On the block, I am staying with the 3.5L most likely. Will be doing sleeves with a half fill. Carr Hbeam/Carr bolt, Cp pistons, bearings, and billet crank is also being looked at. On the heads, I am have David at Headgames do them. He will make a custom set of cams for my application.
The hardware on the new block will be the ARP 625 grade. Girdle will work as well on-top of the other plans for the block.
I'll look into the VTC gears, never put much thought into it.
On the exhaust, I'm thinking dual 3" into a single 4" then back into dual 3" through Burns mufflers. That's the pelim game plan regarding the exhaust.
Haha, just what I need, a billet block. Man if I listened to everything I would definitely be broke. Always easier to spend someone elses money as they say.
That is grip for the PPG gears!! I will not be going that route lol.
Appreciate it man. We have all that in the shop, just have other projects going on, so I use what tools I can get my hands on. I am sure at some point I'll need to use those things though.
Thank you sir!!!
I think I'll let Don do the building and give him my goals of what I want to do. I don't see needing to go as high as 10k RPMS with my setup to be honest. However, whatever it takes to get to my goal, well I guess I'll have to do it.
My inputs:
Buy my oem block and build it! (Low miles ;D) *shameless plug*
Knife edge the oem crank or go billet, obviously get sleeves, and custom pistons (100mm). Or, something along those lines. Since you're going dry-sump, might as well design the low end to rev to the moon. Rod stroke ratio is similar to the 4g63, so go check out what people have been doing with the long rod strokers (piston, crank, rod ratios) to rev (long rod setups survive better at 10krpm because of less piston movement).
Get the biggest fattest cam you can. They make up to a 300 on custom orders... Not sure how ridiculous that would be, but if there's a setup worth trying something like that, this would be it.
Pick up Nismo VTC Cam gears. They're over a grand but allow 55 degrees of cam advance vs stock 40.
Modify your timing cover so you can get to the cam gears more easily... I know a couple of shops were able to do this successfully. This could come in great if you wanted to test cams... I doubt you'll find a perfect cam setup the first time.
Custom order all your ARP hardware in 625 aged. Get a nice crank girdle (Like Dynosty's).
Get dog box gears cut for your tranny and pickup a ikeya formula shifter.
LOL these suggestions are going to cost you quite a bit, but they're all things I would want to do if I was building a high rpm, high boost Z.
Oh and on your exhaust, go dual to single back to dual. Trust me.
Buy my oem block and build it! (Low miles ;D) *shameless plug*
Knife edge the oem crank or go billet, obviously get sleeves, and custom pistons (100mm). Or, something along those lines. Since you're going dry-sump, might as well design the low end to rev to the moon. Rod stroke ratio is similar to the 4g63, so go check out what people have been doing with the long rod strokers (piston, crank, rod ratios) to rev (long rod setups survive better at 10krpm because of less piston movement).
Get the biggest fattest cam you can. They make up to a 300 on custom orders... Not sure how ridiculous that would be, but if there's a setup worth trying something like that, this would be it.
Pick up Nismo VTC Cam gears. They're over a grand but allow 55 degrees of cam advance vs stock 40.
Modify your timing cover so you can get to the cam gears more easily... I know a couple of shops were able to do this successfully. This could come in great if you wanted to test cams... I doubt you'll find a perfect cam setup the first time.
Custom order all your ARP hardware in 625 aged. Get a nice crank girdle (Like Dynosty's).
Get dog box gears cut for your tranny and pickup a ikeya formula shifter.
LOL these suggestions are going to cost you quite a bit, but they're all things I would want to do if I was building a high rpm, high boost Z.
Oh and on your exhaust, go dual to single back to dual. Trust me.
On the block, I am staying with the 3.5L most likely. Will be doing sleeves with a half fill. Carr Hbeam/Carr bolt, Cp pistons, bearings, and billet crank is also being looked at. On the heads, I am have David at Headgames do them. He will make a custom set of cams for my application.
The hardware on the new block will be the ARP 625 grade. Girdle will work as well on-top of the other plans for the block.
I'll look into the VTC gears, never put much thought into it.
On the exhaust, I'm thinking dual 3" into a single 4" then back into dual 3" through Burns mufflers. That's the pelim game plan regarding the exhaust.
jeeze resmarted why not just recommend a billet block too =P dont like the whole idea of the long rod setups, you make alot less torque from the smaller arm and its not really needed. i dont see you revving a vq to 10k but other engines with similar rod/stroke ratios to ours going to 8-9k(heck 427 corvette is 7k stock and thats not even overhead cam.) i would be more concerned with our massive bearings and try to make those smaller for less friction.(which would also allow a smaller clearance before spinning them)
as far as dog box, no one makes em for our trans, ppg told me i would need to find at least 5 buyers and the cost would be 20k each lol
as far as dog box, no one makes em for our trans, ppg told me i would need to find at least 5 buyers and the cost would be 20k each lol
That is grip for the PPG gears!! I will not be going that route lol.
Thank you sir!!!
I think I'll let Don do the building and give him my goals of what I want to do. I don't see needing to go as high as 10k RPMS with my setup to be honest. However, whatever it takes to get to my goal, well I guess I'll have to do it.
02-14-2013, 02:13 PM
#47
But back to the topic. Headworks is expensive sh*t esp with a custom ground cam :O
On the topic of rpm, you may not need to go to 10k, but 9k would be great. Realistically, if your short end is well put together, you should be able to rev to 9k reliably (at least a lot more reliably than most of us! lol). 10k would be cool just to hear.
What are you going to do for engine mounting? Mazworx cracked the outside of their block at 1xxxhp using the factory mounting points...
04-08-2013, 03:29 PM
#51
However, everything on my current motor is going pretty well. Came to a few set backs getting everything up to par, fittings breaking, trying to figure out the power steering lines, and etc. This kit is a tight fit, if it was any tighter I'd feel like a pedo messing with this car.What's left you might ask. Finish adjusting ps lines, hookup harness, fuel lines, vacuum lines, and ecu, install radiator and condenser, intake manifold, fill fluids, finish installing intercooler and piping, hook up dual wideband gauge, install headlight and front bumper, and last but not least get tuned. Im sure there are things I am forgetting but that will cover the majority of what I will be doing this weekend.
I'll have some pictures posted soon as well.
Thanks
Jeremiah
SN: Big shoutout to Hal and Dustin over at Dynosty for the Haltech and e85 setup. Still waiting on something from you Dustin!!!
04-16-2013, 07:33 PM
#53
So what engine is in this car? Stroker 3.8/4.0 or unsleeved 3.5? Dry or wet sump? And what rev limit are you targeting? For peak power with those massive turbos, displacement is probably a non-issue, but you will want to extend the rev range. Are you still planning on using the RPS billet twin carbon? I think those are underrated at 750 wtq but I don't know it'll hold what your planning for. I am using the same clutch but am targetting 700 wtq max.
Last edited by rcdash; 04-16-2013 at 07:37 PM.
04-16-2013, 07:36 PM
#54
Right now it is a built 3.5 unsleeved. Wanted to get everything on and driveable while I wait for the motor to be done. Also looking at redoing my fuel system as well, when it comes to that time. Shoot for 800rwhp or so with this block, then with the new block, I'll go for whatever she can take. I think I'll be able to surpass 1300rwhp though. The new motor will be a 10:1cr, 3.8L sleeved, dry sump, 10-10500rpms. Fuel system will be either a single weldon or a triple 485, still debating there.
Last edited by Total D; 04-16-2013 at 07:39 PM.
04-17-2013, 09:10 AM
#56
Right now it is a built 3.5 unsleeved. Wanted to get everything on and driveable while I wait for the motor to be done. Also looking at redoing my fuel system as well, when it comes to that time. Shoot for 800rwhp or so with this block, then with the new block, I'll go for whatever she can take. I think I'll be able to surpass 1300rwhp though. The new motor will be a 10:1cr, 3.8L sleeved, dry sump, 10-10500rpms. Fuel system will be either a single weldon or a triple 485, still debating there.
04-17-2013, 10:08 AM
#57
For 1300whp, two 6266's would do just fine then as each is rated at 73lbs/min.
04-17-2013, 10:34 AM
#58
Each one of the 6766's can move 93lbs/min (according to PTE), so in theory you are saying that one turbo should be enough? There is no compressor maps though to really see the whole picture.
For 1300whp, two 6266's would do just fine then as each is rated at 73lbs/min.
For 1300whp, two 6266's would do just fine then as each is rated at 73lbs/min.
04-17-2013, 01:11 PM
#59
The heads are going to be well done for this motor. The same guy that did the heads for the PM Drag Z running 6's in the quarter is doing my heads. I am making sure to cover all bases, because I know this build needs a lot of attention to detail. Talked to Charles yesterday about the fuel system, so I think I know what I am going to do there as well. Right now I just have the full stage 3 kit from him.
04-20-2013, 05:35 AM
#60
Awesome bro can't wait to see the new setup. Weldon 2035 with the controller is a great choice,(if that's the one you are talking about) I am debating between that pump which Titan recommends and talking to SP, Reid recommends to run the single Magnafual 2500HP external pump that's triggered to come on under boost. A Walbro 416lph pump is in-tank for the regular fuel duties.
Not sure if you have thought about those.
Not sure if you have thought about those.