Decided to get the car up and running and get some very zoomed in data logging and just see what's going on with the engine. Not that I'm Gods gift to reading data-logs but if its something simple it might point me in the right directions.

still getting AN Temp1 Error - which is my engine coolant temp sensor and I'm not sure what's going on with this but it appeared to be acting correct. Might be a shout-out to link to get some clarification. The setup menu has the standard OEM sensor to choose from and has a 1k ohm pull-up resistor internal to the link that is selected.

Some potential good news - the computer is activating an RPM limit (which might be what's going on with my erratic idle). I'm chasing down the RMP Limit Activation Table but I believe it's tied to my knock signal as I'm getting some crazy knock signal output(luckily under minimal load!!!).

A touch of good news - put a water pressure gauge on my coolant system and it climbed up to about 18-20psi and through these tests did go any higher and no coolant pushing through my overflow tank.

More to come!

 

No expert here, but a simple Ohms/resistance test should show if the coolant temp sensor is bad. Cold, and if possible at operating temp. If you get an open/0 resistance (or the same at cold and hot) you've found your problem. Gl!

 

Thanks JHC - I appreciate your input! Yea - I did essentially this … got the car up to temp, turned the car off, disconnected the line (in the cab of the car) and put my multimeter on it and you could watch the resistance climb as the car cooled down. I swapped the sensor too for good measure and same result.

I'm more worried whats causing my ECU to activate the RPM limit. I speculate it's the knock that it's picking up and if that's the case than why am I knocking? Is it legit knock? or is my knock sensor malfunctioning and/or wired wrong?

I ran out of time last night but I'm gonna dig into it...actually looking forward to chasing it down.

I love the Link G4 but damn it is wayyyyy more complicated than the old haltech …

 

I'm certainly a novice compared to you guys who go deep. Am I just old school? I'd imagine knock would trigger timing retard, not rev-limit...

 

Yea., I don't disagree with you. The link can be setup to cut timing or fuel(as most ECUs can). I'm speculating from 15seconds of seeing my datalog graphs and noticing that knock was spiking and the rev limiter was kicked on.

I'll be putting the detective hat on pretty quick here! I'll upload some screen shots of my findings

 

Just a thought. Knock senosr is very sensitive, it must be properly torqued (look at FSM) for correct reading.

 

What happens if you remove the knock sensor completely?

What happens if you unmount the knock sensor and suspended it in the air or wrapped in a cloth to prevent it from "hearing" knock?

 

I am fairly sure I torqued it to spec but I'll check it - you never know!

I will look into this...slightly hesitant and I dont know if the car would function 'normal' if the ECU isnt seeing a knock signal - I dont know but I'll give it a try!

Did a copy paste of my map and busted open the old haltech software(to view my old twin turbo tunes) and some HPA start maps and wondering if I'm truly getting knock? and it's not a wiring issue or a sensor issue and it's actually knock! what a concept!!

I'm actually really enjoying the hunt ... I feel that, despite how complicated Link can be, Im learning the setup better and better.

 

Hey Beall do you mind if I PM you? I got some questions on certain aspects of a build I want to get going for my car.

 

PM away! I'm all about helping / sharing info!

 

Digging into the Link and I dont know how nor why but I am missing a handful of values in my map...

my injector deadtimes and short-pulse width tables were all zeros...
my fuel table, fuel target table, and ignition tables ranged from -14psi to 0 psi, showing no cells for boost
sorta encouraging...

other than that, been busy...updates later

 

Reloaded my map and the problem still persists but it seems that the RPM jump starts around 4k RPM. It might just be me.

Ordered OEM crank and cam position sensors - should be here later in the week. Could be a sensor issue as the CPS' I have are non-OEM (I know better, I really do).

Huge hat-tip to Cedric G - He hooked me up with a pretty nice 6mt engine harness. Last week or so I have been checking and documenting each ecu pin and connector on the harness to compare to mine.

next resort will be uploading to Link's forum and/or tech support...

that's all I know...

 

gonna need to modify this harness for the link.

slice in coolant pressure, oil pressure and fuel pressure power/signal/grounds into the ECU, and wideband inputs.

Will also need to cut the OEM injector connectors and install ID1000s connectors.

 

I'm wondering if you still think that Haltech is overpriced

 

lol!!

Price was a consideration but I had a quick email-chat with Andre at HPA and he said go with the link. I'm not unhappy with the link! I think my issues are self-inflicted!

How are you doing over there?

 

I'm fine, but my car isn't that much. It seems that gearbox input shaft broke, I can throw in every gear, but no output on propshaft at all.

On the bright side, I got bug fixed firmware for Haltech, still can't believe but it really works now ).

 

If you need anything shipped you know where I'm at! Cool on the Haltech!


In other news ...

finally wired my radar detector and the water/methanol kit in the F150. Basically taking 12volts from the cigarette lighter source for the detector and WMI controller then did a 'add-a-fuse' to the fusebox off the passenger side footwell to power the pump. Ran the line down a trim piece and under the chassis and running the lines/hose on the top-side of a chassis rail. I'm taking the 5gallon tank from the nissan and will mount it in the bed of the truck.

Had a convo with my landlord (master mechanic, former ford mechanic) and he thinks my erratic idle is my crank position sensor. I've noticed that the sensor isnt seated/sitting 100% right. I think my transmission is every-so-slightly not bolted to the engine block as precisely as it should be ... hard to explain without a picture and I'll get one uploaded. We hypothesize that the sensor isnt reading the flexplate exactly right at higher RPMs which is giving the ECU a bad signal. I'm gonna put the car up in the air, support the back of the engine and front of the trans with scissor jacks and see about getting the engine 10,000% correct.

Another problematic area may be that my alternator line 'could' be too close the the engine harness and could be producing frequency that are interfering with the crank shaft / cam shaft position sensors ( the OEM harness should prove/disprove this).

The Link has a oscilloscope feature for triggers so I 'should' be able to get things up and going and watch that signal...

I got Cedric's harness prepped for the Link...I'm waiting on injector-dynamics injector connectors to swap into the harness and I've got a handfull more connectors to install and I can turn the key.

 

Erratic idle on the Z, or the F150? The mention of a flexplate is throwing me off. You mean flywheel?

 

the Z … the f150 will be dropped off at the dealership if/when things go wrong!!!

yea, flywheel (youre right) … I was inferring the flexplate as the item having the trigger-wheel for the sensor...but, yeah - flywheel.

 

well...she sounds angry...


would like to think that it was a sensor issues (which it is, in a round-about kind of way) but I bet I messed something up in my wire harness. I'm gonna trouble shoot it compared to Cedric's but I will likely run this harness for the time being...we'll see - I hate how the OEM harness look/lays across the engine (but hell, it works!).

Moving forward I will need to re-route / tighten-up / tie-off / protect wires before I can get it back on the road. I also have new pigtail connectors for the oil, coolant, fuel pressure sensors and I'll need to get those wired into the Link.

There may be more to come with custom-built harness and maybe I need to stage / tier a custom build better (ie not do it all at once).