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Im going to look into getting the coated, if I cant go that route ill just wrap the parts that are close to fuel and clutch lines.
Coating will be $$$ not sure it's really necessary. Probably more than headers? Idk. Anyway, one of the best designs for holding in heat is a thermos... The thermos has an inner cup (ideally) a vacuum, and then an outer cup. The reason it isolates the inner heat so well, is the heat has to radiate from the inner cup to the outer cup, then that has to radiate or conduct. Radiant heat transfer is by far the weakest, especially in a vacuum. Air is a better thermal conductor, but it's still much lower conductivity than lets say a piece of metal (if you were holding one end of a metal rod, and holding a torch to the other side, you'd feel it pretty quick).
By putting a piece of metal in between the header and whatever else is there, you do something very similar. You don't have a black body on the header, and you do have air between the parts, but this still blocks heat tremendously well. Even if it's just like a few millimeters space on each side.
Last edited by Resmarted; Mar 4, 2015 at 09:26 PM.
What I would like to do is torque to 35, 50, 65, 80, 95. But then im not sure if I need to lossen them and repeat. The fsm says go to 35lbs then go 90* then another 90. Loosen all the way then retorque. Im probably going with either cosworth or dynosty since they are about the same price.
(not being sarcastic) have you thought about following ARP's instructions for torque'ing? I read the FSM on the their procedure w/a grain of salt and followed ARPs more closely, I used their lube and would recommend it - I bought a canister of it and if I can legally send you some I'd be more than happy to send you a few servings.
Arp reccomendation is 3 stages like I was going to do, only difference is im going to 95lbs and not 80. I have arps lube they sent with the fasteners.
I say do what dynosty recommends. *Ahem* lol
So that is do the Nissan recommended torque pattern (what studs/bolts first second third), and then do it in the 4-5 stages. Not the un-torquing and re torquing. That would be a good idea for torque to yeild bolts. I'm assuming the reason dynosty recommends doing it in more stages primarily because you are going above arp's recommended torque, and the heads are aluminum.
In my book that's the right way. Wouldn't do it any other way, but that's just me.
Received my cosworth head gaskets today, and will be picking up my block tomorrow to start the assembly process. My big delay appears to be my headers have to wait on them now.
