Dynosty ones have been proven on quite a few big hp cars. Most of the big HP builds as of late are coming out of their shop and running their built engines/HG's. I think that speaks for the quality of the gasket. It's the same as an HKS gasket, which is what 90% of the high hp vq's are running anyway so I'd lean that way.

As for FSM, what I meant was torquing pattern. Go 30lbs then 50, 65, 80, 95. Don't back them off any. Then do the other head.
To put the studs in don't use any lube, just thread them in with an allen key by hand. Screw them in all the way and you can back them out 3/4 of a turn. Some people do that, I didn't. It doesn't really matter at that point. Just make sure there isn't any loctite, arp lube, oil, etc on the stud when you put it in. Blow out the hole before hand to keep any crap from being in there especially moisture. Then put the HG on and the heads.

Put ARP lube on the top of the studs. Use a good amount to make the thread surface will be properly lubricated. The nice thing about 90 ish lbs is if the torque wrench is off, it doesn't matter. They can be torqued higher so you probably won't break them, and if it's lower you're still probably going to have enough clamping force on the heads to ensure no head lift.

 

[QUOTE=Conway_160;10544340]So I don't think this is supposed to look like this. This is the number 5 Piston...



Lookks good to me. Some bondo should fix that. -body/paint guy ;D

 

Well after waiting 3 weeks if waiting on my machine shop he informs me he doesnt have a torque plate. So I did some calling none of my local machine shops have a torque plate...fml waste of time and money!

 

My block sat at a machine shop with rods, pistons, bearings, and ARP hardware for 8 months before I found out the machine couldn't reach down the entire bore.

Machine shops tend to be pretty hokey pokey.

 

Damn I dont fell as bad now...but omg I would be pissed!

 

Motor and Heads are at the Machine shop. Should get it back in a few weeks

 

Just ordered my Ebay Long tubes and Cosworth Head Gaskets.

 

Nice. I wonder how the headers will hold up to the heat.

 

We'll find out in a few months

 

100bucks says they'll be fine

 

Im betting they will be fine as well.

Should I wrap them?

 

I'll withhold any wager until I see pics. I would wrap them. That is one thing I shouldve done before I installed my exhaust stuff.

 

I didn't wrap mine and actually they cooled off alot faster than I expected. Like cool to the touch in less than 5 mins.

 

How much hotter would you say your engine bay is since you didnt wrap your headers?

 

I would personally wrap them, it wouldn't hurt not too.

Reason why I say this is because I used to run the OBX Long tube headers in my NA days with a Popcharger. In traffic id get intake air temps up to 160-170 degrees. When I open the hood upon coming home which I always do to help the motor cool itself, id always get a wave of heat attacking me. My current exhaust setup is wrapped the whole way and my AITs barely hit 110 in traffic. These headers are uncoated which meant a lot of radiant heat will escape into your engine bay. What does that mean? Higher levels of heat soaked engine and component parts and fluids as well as higher AITs, and hot feet, heat even came thru the floorboard and into the cabin which sucks. Higher AITs = Less dense air = less power. Imaging how inefficient intercooling would be with the filter sitting in all that heat to boot? Just my .02. I'm putting my longtubes back on soon and will be wrapping them.

 

IMHO it's better not to wrap the exhaust, unless you actually have experience with it that would say otherwise.

Basically when you wrap a header you lower the thermal conductivity of the pipe, and trap the heat in the pipe. My two stroke buddies have seen pipes crack when not wrapped properly... You're only increasing the heating cycle on the pipe when it's hot, and dragging out how long it takes to cool off. The air becomes less dense and is supposed to move faster, but the HP difference isn't worth it at all.

I know a 1j car that has a wrapped header and it was fine for a while, eventually cracked even with turbo support mounts to the block. It's especially not necessary on an SC car. The gains will be virtually nothing. Now ceramic coatings in my book are another story.

Only wrap headers if they're going to be cooking something important right above them... Like an intake. Or your leg.

 

If you have to. Or you can just make heat sheilds around the spots where it's close to the car, and between the header/intake. That will block heat far far better than any exhaust wrap. Throw in some thermal tape on your intake piping and you'll be set.

I've heard of plenty of headers/exhausts (on bikes) cracking from wrap, I would not like to need to replace or pull out a vq to weld a crack in a lth.

 

I agree with some of what you said, Resmarted. But im gonna debate a little, haha!

However, personally I try to see the whole picture. The engine as a whole and not just thinking about how well the pipe can cool itself down. Our engine bays are soo cramped and heat is bad for a lot of systems and fluids around these headers. The Pros to header wrapping just outweigh the cons of not doing so with a heatsoaked motor, potentially boiling over brake/clutch/steering fluid and higher AITs for the sake of metal.

If anything getting them JetHot or ceramic coated would be a better option. Less stress on the material of the longtubes not being able to cool themselves properly.

 

Your right, Resmarted. Heat shielding and/or reflective plates around the intake portion and floor board is a good idea. I guess its up to OP in terms of how far he wants to go with it.

 

Im going to look into getting the coated, if I cant go that route ill just wrap the parts that are close to fuel and clutch lines.