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This is the tension pulley i have on it now, Columbo, not pretty but its a hell of alot better than the small one one the left i was using prior to swapping. There is about 70% of belt wrapped area around the pulley which will make a difference providing more grip and less belt slip.
Got 2 emails yesterday from Kenne Bell and CJM. The 21v Adapter plug is just 15 bucks plus shipping. And CJM responded in my email about the Twin Pump for the DE as well as if the 370z version was compatable by saying:
"It is a strong focus right now and I am hoping to make some big steps over the next couple weeks. It has always been one of our main products and its been brutal not having it available, so I put it on high priority. Its only taken so long because a shop move and setup took much longer than anticipated this year, along with big surge in fuel system orders that kept me busy packing boxes all season. But things are a little calm right now so I am hoping to knock it out.
The 370z fuel tank is much deeper than a 350z tank, so the 370z twin pump would be several inches too tall to fit in there."
Charles
CJ Motorsports
Last edited by BluestreamDE; Nov 2, 2018 at 05:28 AM.
My 48mm Adapter caps for my Bosch 2200's came in today, ran out of blue o rings so one has a black one unfortunately. Took comparison shots from the Stock injectors that were in there when i bought my Z to the Bosch side by side. Wont be installing until I go for retuning in the near future.
Thanks, i definitly dont want to hear that im out of injector ever on this car, lol.
Found a video with the spray pattern for the 2200's, starts at 1:58 but it shows it in different pulses and fuel pressure. They flow alot and atomize the fuel well for such a heavy injector.
Just to update everyone, I got enough courage to complete the KB BAP install by splicing the Black/Yellow wire in the harness before the connector to the fuel pump and connecting the correct lines. Swapped my 15A Fuel Pump fuse to the 30A supplied with the Relay Kit, said a prayer, and went to turn the key. Fuel pump came right on and started with no issues. Drove around for approx. 20 minutes so the car got plenty hot, and saw no electrical hiccups or odd behaviors with the Z.
Waiting for the 21v Adapter Plug for the BAP to be shipped, should be here Saturday or Monday.
I don't see how a CJM twin pump would help your IDC?
I'm seeing 80-85% duty cycle on 20 psi with DeatschWerks 1000cc injectors, Walbro 450 pump, a BAP, and 43 psi of base fuel pressure. Car's running E85 almost exclusively.
Since adding the BAP the car's not dropping fuel pressure in boost, previously it was dropping fuel pressure beyond 16 psi.
I'm going to probably increase my base fuel pressure to 58 psi and try to push another couple psi, figure I could get 23-24 psi out of these injectors. I don't perceive any issues with the pump and BAP though.
Hey, once you do please share your results. Im gonna test this theory myself with my Z. Last thing to get is the 525 pump and 21v Adapter plug for the BAP thats enroute and im off to get retuned. I would love to see how far a single walbro can be pushed on our platform before going with a Twin Pump. I dont know how much boost i will be making but i know over 20 for sure, abd this will give me at least a baseline on where i stand in whp/tq with stock heads.
Just a quick update, installed my Bosch nosebleeders, i mean 2200cc injectors last night, had a grand time trying put different K Multiplier values to even get it to idle
If anyone cares to know, i used a value of 9950 for my Kmultiplier, with fuel comp hovering at 94-104% correction, anything over 10,000 and the car would just push way too much fuel on light load on and off throttle. Mind you im using e85 so results may differ on your application.
Gonna continue to refine later on today since im on leave till Friday, so ill have plenty of time to data log and make incrimented adhustments when necessary.
My sweet spot for idle was 1100rpm, I couldn’t stand the Vortech rattle at 800.
im hovering around 1100-1200 rpm at idle. Having the 13.8 lb Z1 flywheel doesnt help either, my idle rpm stays inconsistant because its soo light. But its idling ok. My Crank enrichment needs work as well because starting is harder than b4.
im hovering around 1100-1200 rpm at idle. Having the 13.8 lb Z1 flywheel doesnt help either, my idle rpm stays inconsistant because its soo light. But its idling ok. My Crank enrichment needs work as well because starting is harder than b4.
Not to freakout but running the haltech and 'putting up' with the weird 'searching' idle issues the first few redbox & silver box had (I believe) contributed to the failure of my bearings ... in that the searching idle caused a variation of oil pressure (call it 15psi 35psi) which caused fluctuations in the oil present in the oil gallery/crank/rod ends/etc and over time it little by little it wore on the bearings until one clogged and caused failure. Hind sight is 20/20 but something for me to think about moving forward
My 2cents would be to figure out the idle as quick as possible and if it's happy at 1100rpm than let it stay there
Not to freakout but running the haltech and 'putting up' with the weird 'searching' idle issues the first few redbox & silver box had (I believe) contributed to the failure of my bearings ... in that the searching idle caused a variation of oil pressure (call it 15psi 35psi) which caused fluctuations in the oil present in the oil gallery/crank/rod ends/etc and over time it little by little it wore on the bearings until one clogged and caused failure. Hind sight is 20/20 but something for me to think about moving forward
My 2cents would be to figure out the idle as quick as possible and if it's happy at 1100rpm than let it stay there
Thanks for the tip, brother. Thats a big pressure fluctuation. When i start my Z on a cold engine my oil pressure on the oem gauge goes to about 80-90 psi and settles at 55 psi once at optimal pressure at idle. I do notice the needle rocks back n forth in small incriments during idle due to the "searching", but didnt know it was an issue. Ill keep an eye on it for sure.
Car is driving better now after constant logging and tweaking of my tune, but not perfect. Its as good as its gonna get right now until my Tune at Soho (looking like Feb of next year timeframe) Wont be updating much as this time of year giftshopping and other expensive purchases for the holiday take priority.
Bealljk, wasnt able to improve the idle rpm fluctuation, i believe its my flywheel because it did this before with my 1600cc's. Less mass = less rotational inertia so a slight difference in power will change the speed of the flywheel rotaion rather quickly.
^ it sounds like you have got the car in good shape pre-tune in Feb. It will be interesting to hear about some details after you get it well tuned; you have put in a lot of time and effort on this new setup and in a few months the beast will be unleashed!
Bealljk, wasnt able to improve the idle rpm fluctuation, i believe its my flywheel because it did this before with my 1600cc's. Less mass = less rotational inertia so a slight difference in power will change the speed of the flywheel rotaion rather quickly.
That's a great pic - I'm not sure if you meant to shadow/adjust the aperature but the strut bar, kinetix, intake, blower, etc but it's a pretty sweet effect.
Yea - in general idle is weird without an ecu that can correct for it and/or not having an idle air control valve...my biggest thing was the haltech would drop down to 600rpm and then bounce back up...doing that over and over and over, over 8years may not have been the best for the engine longevity. It can be something the tuner works on. definitely in for results!
(by no means am I taking away or coming off critical) I would look into hood dampers. I bought an unbranded set off Amazon for $80 and it cleaned up the engine bay and made raising & lowering the hood much easier/cleaner.
Mine would rev hunt quite bad when i had the prochrager, had to drill a hole in my throttle throttle plate and that solved it.
Originally Posted by BluestreamDE
Car is driving better now after constant logging and tweaking of my tune, but not perfect. Its as good as its gonna get right now until my Tune at Soho (looking like Feb of next year timeframe) Wont be updating much as this time of year giftshopping and other expensive purchases for the holiday take priority.
Bealljk, wasnt able to improve the idle rpm fluctuation, i believe its my flywheel because it did this before with my 1600cc's. Less mass = less rotational inertia so a slight difference in power will change the speed of the flywheel rotaion rather quickly.
