Well i found a few problems:

1st heads were only torqued to ~75ft lbs with ARP l19's instead of the 95ft lbs they were supposed to be torqued to.

2nd, Looks like i burnt through my #5 cylinder wall. In the middle its 1mm x .6mm so i think i need a new block FML!





On a positive note heads are fine and they are not warped at all.

 

Wen't and talked with the shop who built the block. Told them what's going on and showed him the pics.

They told me the head studs should be re-torqued after the first heat cycle.

I was told it doesn't look like a head lift problem but that, that cylinder got hot for what ever reason and burnt through.
He feels bad because its so an odd scenario he's gonna help out as much as possible.

So they are going to try and TIG the sleeve then re mil it, redeck the heads, and flow my injector to see if i have a bad injector.

He is also going to look at my bearings and pistons to ensure they are still good.

In the past i haven't had a great vibe about the owner but after talking with him today for 20 mins about the car i feel 1000% better.

Since i have never heard about re-torquing the head studs i wanted to call and ask. So i called ARP to ask them about it, found out they don't make L19's for anything they are all made by special request. So that was 0 help. Called Z1 the guys who i ordered the L19's from and they said follow what ever the base ARP procedure is but torque to 95 and not 85.

 

YOUR BUILDER IS WRONG!!!!

https://arp-bolts.com/p/faq.php

 

I agree with OMZ - I've never heard that for this engine with the L19s nor have I done that with my two rebuilds.

I'm happy to hear the shop is standing behind the build / rebuild process.

Thanks for posting that FAQ OMZ

 

I've also never heard this either. Just posting what he said.

I'll hopefully have the engine out in a few hours.

 

Ill take pics of all the bearings and cylinder walls to see what everyone thinks.

 

Pulled the engine...

Needs a bath bad!


Just hanging out.


Crank looks good but i need bearings :-(



Tomorrow i'll get the oil pump and rear main off so i can clean things up and take better pictures.



Piles are just a growing..

 

Here is some of the pictures i promised. Flash was used in all the pictures so it kind of exaggerates the defects.


You will see some defects on the block main journals but you can't feel any of them with a fingernail.

#1 Main journal.


# 2 Main Journal


#3 Main Journal



#4 Main Journal



Overview of the journals.



#2 Sleeve, They look very deep in the picture but i can barely feel the with a finger nail.



#4 Sleeve, these one are very had to feel but they are there.


#6 Sleeve can't feel these ones.

Top of #5 Sleeve you can see where it burnt through and was trying to do so on other parts.


Top of #3 you can see it was starting to happen on this one as well.



Top of #1 looks fine.... Makes no sense to me :-(




So that is everything that I've noticed so far with the block its self.

Tomorrow i'll be taking the block and pistons to the machine shop to have them looked at. I'm worried the #4 and #6 scratches will be do deep and will need to be bored out more. If that's the case i'll get a new stock block and get it bored out to 96mm so my pistons fit.

 

Finger nail test!!!!

Do your valves look ok? Is there a consensus on why the top of the cylinder wall was melted?

 

#6 and #4 sleeves would fail the cylinder wall test.

Valves are like new.

Hopefully i'll have more info today.

 

Sorry to hear about your bad luck.
Thanks so much for posting your mishaps.
Has me second guessing how I torqued mine down. I did the Nissan spec torque+angle VS APRs 95ft lbs. Am I in trouble?

 

Youre running ARP L19s??

I would dive back in and torque them to the 95ft-lb spec. The OEM Nissan Spec and added angle (what? like 90*) is for torque-to-yield hardware. L19 is much stronger, can provide better clamping and can take more torque.

I would go back and follow ARPs instructions

 

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

 

YES YES YES, Torque them down to 95ft lbs. the OEM torque is like 70ft lbs.

 

Jason, This is a Brand New Motor Right?

Why so Much Scoring? Something big going on there.

Also, I don't understand the markings under the bearing. They should look new! Only Bearing Movment would Cause any kind of marks.

Hummmmmm?

Imput from anyone...... Let's Help Jason Out, So His Motor is all Good this Time!

TimRod

 

Tim,

This is my original motor, that was originally built in South Dakota.

I have no idea why there is so much scoring.

The shop is going to measure everything to see if they can figure out what is causing so much damage.

Unfortunately, i don't have to tools to verify measurements.

I also don't understand the markings under the bearings either, but they are as smooth as a babies bottom.

Once i get information i will let every one know.

 

Found out today my block is not repairable. So i will be making a 6.5 hour one way drive this weekend to pick up a block.

Hopefully in a few weeks we'll be assembling an engine.

 

If you ask me - bullet dodged ... I dont know that I'd trust a block that has been welded on like that. Aluminum does some funky stuff when heated / cooled...

Youre gonna swap your internals into this new block right? machine the heads? new HGs? New bearings?

Any thought on oil clearance on this refresh?

 

Its how they fix heads when things go bad.

Yes internals will go from old block to new.

I'll be getting new HG', Bearings, and Rings.

I'm going to talk with the shop about bearing sizes and help gapping rings. As i don't have the equipment to do either.

I think they machined heads, even if they didn't they are square just need a little TLC to clean them.

 

Any thought on going slightly bigger oil clearance on the rod and/or main bearings?