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First of let me say F- Covid! This sht has f'd me so hard the last week or so.
Anyway, took the car out today to get some more miles on her. Only planned on going to Sams Club to get some food for the house but decided we should try and go to best buy as well the A/V receiver we have in the front room is being super flaky. Thing shuts off randomly and it's getting old quickly. Anyway got to Best Buy and they are only doing curb side delivery. Good thing I didn't just drive 30 miles to come to this store. Anger aside get home and realize I put over a hundred miles on the car, which also took half a tank of gas. She is a thirsty girl! I did my best to vary RPM and Load.
Got home and decided I'd start to mock up the water meth kit for when I turn it on.
Decided to mount the reservior on the back of the trunk, this give me the best location to refill it, also allows me to keep my spare tire.
For those who don't know on G35's they have this false bottom trunk thing. This is where the OEM Bose amp was located. Since the previous owner put an aftermarket stereo in here figured I didn't need the amp anymore.
This is what the false bottom cover thing looks like with the pump under it.
As much as i don't want to I may end up cutting the plywood thing so it can set over top of this giving me a usable trunk in case i need to run the store and take someone to gapple bee's at the same time.
In this process I had to run to Lowes to get some screws to hold down the pump. It was in this journey I learned that I'll be needing to upgrade rear tires...My Potenza RE01Rs don't like life in 1st or 2nd. Not meaning to I may have got the back end slightly sidways. Good thing it was only 10psi for a very quick stint.
These Pictures are from 928 Motorsports.
The purpose of the oil slinger is exactly that, it pulls the oil from the "reservoir" and slings it through the case to lubricate the bearings and gears.
The OEM gear is known to fail, and if you don't catch it quick enough it can destroy the gears ruining the entire blower. Thankfully I think i caught mine quick enough and didn't notice any damage on my gears.
I will be upgrading to their smaller one. Since I will be spinning the blower at 70K+ and it's made with better materials.
That's what I thought you were taking, just don't get why it would go bad. What happened to it?
The only thing that makes sense to me is, since the slinger is thin (1/16th inch maybe) it doesn't have enough material withstand constant changes in speeds and it slowly eats the inside of the slinger. Then once it get a little wiggle room is exacerbates quickly.
The slinger is spinning about as fast as the impeller so on a normal drive its going form ~27K rpm (Engine 4000 rpm) to 15K rpm (Engine 2500 rpm). Now if your racing it and you completely wind out your gears that little thing is spinning 60K+ that is a lot of inertia to be stopping.
928 Said it is a very common problem with the V3, so it was just a matter of time before it went.
Took the car to work Monday and discovered it is not capable of doing extended stop and go traffic.
Right now I'm running a single 14" auto zone torqflo fan rated at 1290CFM in the pull configuration.
I think the problem is the location of the fan, but it was the only place I could put it due to the location of the blower and intercooler piping.
I'm thinking of getting another 12" or 14" and setting up in a push configuration in front of he radiator.
I'm also looking into adding hood vents to help get that hot *** air out of the engine bay.
Now that I'm over my 600 mile break in period i decided to get the car some more boost.
It has a missfire at about 5000 and 1/2 throttle. Decided to do spark plugs since I'm not sure how old those ones are.
Discovered that 2 plugs were way over gapped. No idea how I managed to do that but #3 was about .04X and #5 was .05X.
I put in Denso Iridiums and gapped them between .035 and .030. Can't find my dam feeler guages so had to use one of the gappers i have. No its not the dookie one everyone has.
How do these look? Still can't read plugs very well.
how are you detecting mis-fires? CELs? butt-dyno? haltech?
Plugs look slightly lean but not horrible ... what's worse - fouled plugs due to excessively rich or lean plugs? Pick your poison!
As ambient air temps start to rise, I'm not sure my 10" spal is ballsy enough ... and I might need to upgrade ... I feel your pain!
But hood vents for sure ... even small ones will really help!
Im running 2x 14” Spals myself.
mishi fans were pretty worthless and was seeing around 210-225’F. The spals dropped it to a 190-195’F and steady. Without the engine running so hot, my intake temps dropped from 120 to 110. Really helps since my blower sucks in all that hot engine air.
Really helps since my blower sucks in all that hot engine air.
Remember we were talking about inefficiencies? costing you power … cooler charge will take more timing! Obviously different setups - but my IATs run 50 to 70 degrees(as of recent data logs) without WMI.
Originally Posted by Conway_160
The car would buck and you could hear pop and bang. I only did it twice and knew it wasn't a mistake there was something wrong.
I would think lean is worse, lean = heat, heat = melting.
I'm still looking for vents or someone with a plasma table.
Remember we were talking about inefficiencies? costing you power … cooler charge will take more timing! Obviously different setups - but my IATs run 50 to 70 degrees(as of recent data logs) without WMI.
Nothing crazy to report, I have new rear tires on the way my current ones are shot. They've been on the car since 2014 or so. They were due to be upgraded LOL. I've also been working on the water meth set up, I have everything routed and ready to go. I'm waiting on a weld in bung for the nozzle. I tried to just thread it in but did not like the way it set. I also ordered a once piece vortech pipe to clean things up and move the MAF away from the meth nozzle.
if you nozzle-in well before your MAF, your MAF will recognize lower IATs and you'll be able to tune more accurately with WMI?
just a thought?
From what I've heard if you get the MAF wet it can short out and cause a whole bunch of problem. If I was running an IAT sensor only then I do not think it matters where you put the nozzle.
What nozzles are you using pre tb? Have you noticed an afr difference while shooting?
I live in mobile Alabama where it’s usually 95% humidity and over 90f in the summer. I’m starting to think that the meth mix is mostly water. I got the 4 gal from devilsown super cheap which makes me believe it’s mostly water. Lol Where do you order your meth mix?
