I'm going to go with what ever the shop recommends. I don't wanna mess up something critical like that.

 

I would get their input, get input from other members here who are at (or have past) the point you want to be, and do some additional research. I went with a +1/1000" bearing and honed my rods to the top of the OEM tolerance for the added oil clearance (for what it's worth and Im not necessarily suggesting you do the same).

But it seems like a lot of spun bearings on this platform and if I remember correctly you had pre-mature bearing wear?

TCode provided me some good insight on added heat expansion and flex(and probably more I can't remember) and JDM_V35 had some insight from the supra crowd that they use looser tolerances. I landed around the .0025" to .0027" clearance and I'm running a 10w-40 weight oil.

just something to think about

 

When some else builds you're motor and Does Not provide "The Customer" with Documentation of every single clearance number & Torque Spec through the entire motor of what was Actually Done, (EVERYTHING) "Then you can Only assume it was Built Wrong" "0" PROOF OF ANYTHING

I don't know what happened with this motor? But many unanswered Questions.

 

yea ... it's a crap-shoot...

I'm early on in my rebuild and (knock on wood) if everything goes smooth from here on out I dont know that I'll ever pay someone locally to rebuild my block. I can see getting a crate motor from IPP, dynosty, or Z1 different but something to be said about being 10,000% in control of your own build.

 

it's cool the owner is helping you out. Most shops it becomes a finger pointing game.

I feel for you........this has become an epic build from hell.

 

They looked for a engine build sheet so that we could see all the clearances but coudn't find it. So either the guy who built it tossed it or never took measurements. The guy who "built" it was the co-owner and just picked up and left a few months after he "built" my engine.

So now i'm looking to see if i can find local (+/-2 hr drive) machine shop who is knowledgable with the VQ to see if they will bore it and do a line hone.

 

MazWerx


Are you get that Block we talked about?

Block Decked to clean-up, same with heads Too!

Get Rotational Assembly Balanced Too!

They, also offer a complete assembly.

check it out. talk to Mark, Good Guy!

He will tell what you need, and what you do not!

 

Yes i picked up the block we talked about.

I'll call them monday to see what they say.

 

Mazworks??

I bought my VQ flanges from them and I was very very happy / impressed with their quality / attention to detail.

 

Quick update, dropped my engine back off at ECM. They now do all the boring and honing in house, also they have a new engine builder who will provide all specs that I ask for.
or
So, dropped off the block and my pistons last week so could order new rings and bore the block. Come to find out the ring land on #4 was bad, so good thing i popped the head gasket saved me a rotating assembly. ECM ordered a new piston, but once it arrived they noticed it was 30 thousandths bigger than the rest. The engine builder said that he wouldn't do one hole bigger than the rest. So were returning the single piston and the ring set i ordered and ordering a complete set of pistons and rings.

Over the next few days I plan on painting my front timing cover since it looks like dookie right now.

 

I told you to take it to Mazworx.......

This would never Happen there.

 

+1 to mazworks ...

shizzle happens - If ECM will stand behind the build (sounds like they will? and they got a new builder?) I would stick with them.

keep us posted Conway!

 

This failure is mostly the guys in South Dakota who bored the block. ECM just reassembled it last year.

 

Not much of an update. Got my package from Z1, Now I have my Head Gaskets, and gasket rebuild kit.

Now I need to get the block back to start the reassembly.

 

badass - if youre up to it, may I suggest you take a picture of where every mating gasket goes? You know - like a checklist of each gasket? Something I started doing in my thread and it fell-off...

 

What a fcking day. Rotating assmebly and heads are torqued down to 105 ft lbs.

But in the process off looking around town for a 1/2'' 12pt socket to torque the heads down, rear ended someone in my DD....

 

damn man! I think I put mine at 95ft-lbs but wish I would have done 100 or 105...

sorry to hear about the accident ... everyone ok? much damage?

 

That's Suck about rear ending someone.....

What Head Studs?

 

Probably OEM ... or ARP L19?

 

Yea after ECM telling me that aluminum engines should be re-torqued after first heat cycle to ensure heads are still torqued I went ahead and jumped to 105. Even if they do loosen up a little it should still be around the 90ft lbs that ARP reccomends.

The car I smoked had noticeable damage but nothing serious. My Car needs a head light and some engineering to hold the hood down now :-)

I'm running L-19s. I made sure I torqued them using ARPs torque lube.