How-To Repair Stuck / Broken Window Motor ...
Ok, so I did this (cleaning) for my driver's side window last weekend. Worked great for the week but I just got back from DD's and now my window won't go back up.
Do I try and clean it again or just get a new motor?
EDIT - It's an '03 with 63,000 miles if it matters.
BTW - Great write-up VO, thanks!!!
Do I try and clean it again or just get a new motor?
EDIT - It's an '03 with 63,000 miles if it matters.
BTW - Great write-up VO, thanks!!!
Last edited by billsrcursed; Jul 18, 2011 at 01:21 AM.
Sounds like you are doing it wrong unless the motor is defective. I have had that exact same thing happen as you are describing.
I had 2 or 3 copies of the RESET procedure due to having the service manual for my 2005 and a copy for another year plus the .pdf VO posted at the beginning of the thread. HIS COPY IS THE ONLY ONE THAT WORKS FOR ME!
My copies say nothing about CLOSING THE DOOR.
Did You Close Your Door when it said to???
So go back and calmly without any frustration read it step by step and hopefully it will work out for you.
It is going back down becuase it was not reset properly and it thinks all the way up is much higher than you have it set. Good luck!
I had 2 or 3 copies of the RESET procedure due to having the service manual for my 2005 and a copy for another year plus the .pdf VO posted at the beginning of the thread. HIS COPY IS THE ONLY ONE THAT WORKS FOR ME!
My copies say nothing about CLOSING THE DOOR.
Did You Close Your Door when it said to???
So go back and calmly without any frustration read it step by step and hopefully it will work out for you.
It is going back down becuase it was not reset properly and it thinks all the way up is much higher than you have it set. Good luck!

hey guys i have the window motor problem too. i was aware of this problem before i bought a 350z... so i bought mine used a few months ago.. and the windows have been working perfectly fine. it was going smooth and strong.
couple days ago i rolled down all the way and it stopped working. no matter what i do, it's just like as if its dead. the motor does not move at all. it doesnt even try. i took off the door panel and thought i could do the reset process, but it doesnt work. maybe because i can't roll the windows up to begin with...
any ideas what i can do? motor seemed perfectly fine before this happened...
PS: this is the driver side window and the window stopped working one day after i got hit on the driver side (but damage was mainly on the fender)
couple days ago i rolled down all the way and it stopped working. no matter what i do, it's just like as if its dead. the motor does not move at all. it doesnt even try. i took off the door panel and thought i could do the reset process, but it doesnt work. maybe because i can't roll the windows up to begin with...
any ideas what i can do? motor seemed perfectly fine before this happened...
PS: this is the driver side window and the window stopped working one day after i got hit on the driver side (but damage was mainly on the fender)
8 months after replacing the drivers motor with a 're-built' one from O'reillys it went out again. Since I'd bought the brushes and kept the core I rebuilt the old one and swapped them back out. Took the one I bought 8 months ago apart and either the brushes they used wore out in record time or they just clean them and put them back together because the brushes were completely wore out. There is no possible way I've put that window down/up in 8 months to wear a set of brushes out.
8 months after replacing the drivers motor with a 're-built' one from O'reillys it went out again. Since I'd bought the brushes and kept the core I rebuilt the old one and swapped them back out. Took the one I bought 8 months ago apart and either the brushes they used wore out in record time or they just clean them and put them back together because the brushes were completely wore out. There is no possible way I've put that window down/up in 8 months to wear a set of brushes out.
Bought a cardone rebuild online for cheap (rockauto.com) and it was defective (wouldn't work in down or up position even after resetting unless I bang on the door) so sent it back. Cleaned the brushes on the original one out and it is working fine, so will stick with that for a while. I'll replace the brushes next time. This thread was extremely helpful.
Just installed the A1 Cardone rebuilt drivers side motor from O'riellys. This motor swap procedure took me about an hour. Gonna bring back the old motor for the core refund. The core looks just like the one in the pictures with all the build up. Apparently there's a warranty with this thing so we'll see how long it lasts, but the window appears to work like new again.
A huge thanks to OP for this write up. Dealers are good for some things. This is not one of them. I'd have paid them $300 for 30 minutes of labor and let them get me for at least a 200% markup on their cost of the part. This was quick, easy, painless and I saved at least $400. Thanks!
A huge thanks to OP for this write up. Dealers are good for some things. This is not one of them. I'd have paid them $300 for 30 minutes of labor and let them get me for at least a 200% markup on their cost of the part. This was quick, easy, painless and I saved at least $400. Thanks!
yup. turns out motor just died on me one day.
didnt warn me ahead.
i bought a new motor that came with the mount.
i highly suggest NOT to replace the mount, takes time to adjust the windows back to the right position
didnt warn me ahead.
i bought a new motor that came with the mount.
i highly suggest NOT to replace the mount, takes time to adjust the windows back to the right position
hey guys i have the window motor problem too. i was aware of this problem before i bought a 350z... so i bought mine used a few months ago.. and the windows have been working perfectly fine. it was going smooth and strong.
couple days ago i rolled down all the way and it stopped working. no matter what i do, it's just like as if its dead. the motor does not move at all. it doesnt even try. i took off the door panel and thought i could do the reset process, but it doesnt work. maybe because i can't roll the windows up to begin with...
any ideas what i can do? motor seemed perfectly fine before this happened...
PS: this is the driver side window and the window stopped working one day after i got hit on the driver side (but damage was mainly on the fender)
couple days ago i rolled down all the way and it stopped working. no matter what i do, it's just like as if its dead. the motor does not move at all. it doesnt even try. i took off the door panel and thought i could do the reset process, but it doesnt work. maybe because i can't roll the windows up to begin with...
any ideas what i can do? motor seemed perfectly fine before this happened...
PS: this is the driver side window and the window stopped working one day after i got hit on the driver side (but damage was mainly on the fender)
Last edited by d3vil; Aug 11, 2011 at 06:56 PM.
I ended up having to buy it from O'Reilly. They were the only ones with it in stock. They have the lifetime warranty though but hopefully I won't have to use it.
Just replaced drivers side today using this guide, took about 90 minutes and that was getting the tools I needed as I needed them from the house so it's not difficult at all really.
I do have a question, I went to do the reset procedure and found out when I removed the little black circles of plastic that cover the holes up in the inner door panel, the reset cover/button rubber thing was gone. I didn't even think to look at it before hand, luckily the window works just fine without it. The question is, will this hurt it by letting moisture get into it? I'm not really sure what the button was supposed to do as there's nothing behind it but some white plastic, no contact or anything. Should I pop the door panel back off and put some silicone on this?
I do have a question, I went to do the reset procedure and found out when I removed the little black circles of plastic that cover the holes up in the inner door panel, the reset cover/button rubber thing was gone. I didn't even think to look at it before hand, luckily the window works just fine without it. The question is, will this hurt it by letting moisture get into it? I'm not really sure what the button was supposed to do as there's nothing behind it but some white plastic, no contact or anything. Should I pop the door panel back off and put some silicone on this?
Unfortunately, my window DOESN'T work now and I'm not sure what to do...
Thanks again for the write up. I used this to "temporarily" fix mine a few years ago and I broke down and bought a window motor from Advanced. Thankfully I saved this link and followed the directions again for the replacement.
Thank you to the OP for putting up this DIY. I've had the car for going on 3 years now (2003 Touring) and for the last two years my passenger door window was getting "the streak". Around the same time a bad rattle developed when going over bumps and even just cruising on the highway. The window would also rattle when it was being rolled up or down and when the door would shut. It was extremely annoying.
So I went and bought a motor last weekend and decided tonight was the night to jump in and get dirty. Once I had the door panel off I started thinking a bit about the rattle and thought that maybe some bolts were loose instead. Sure enough, there were three bolts loose. They were the three that you can see before you take off the inner metallic door panel. With my ratchet extension I tightened them up and decided to stop there. Once I had everything back together the window instantly sounded better when I'd roll it up and down and when I'd close the door. The final test was on the road and sure enough it was great. In fact, the grease streak (once I cleaned up the window) didn' streak anymore. I can only assume that once the bolts were tightened the contact with the motor brushes was reduced or even eliminated ergo no more streaking.
Thanks again for the DIY. While I didn't have to jump into it with a new motor it really helped me to get into my door panels and fix this issue. The car doesn't sound like a beater any more and I've got a motor waiting for when/if it finally does go out.
So I went and bought a motor last weekend and decided tonight was the night to jump in and get dirty. Once I had the door panel off I started thinking a bit about the rattle and thought that maybe some bolts were loose instead. Sure enough, there were three bolts loose. They were the three that you can see before you take off the inner metallic door panel. With my ratchet extension I tightened them up and decided to stop there. Once I had everything back together the window instantly sounded better when I'd roll it up and down and when I'd close the door. The final test was on the road and sure enough it was great. In fact, the grease streak (once I cleaned up the window) didn' streak anymore. I can only assume that once the bolts were tightened the contact with the motor brushes was reduced or even eliminated ergo no more streaking.
Thanks again for the DIY. While I didn't have to jump into it with a new motor it really helped me to get into my door panels and fix this issue. The car doesn't sound like a beater any more and I've got a motor waiting for when/if it finally does go out.
I'm about to try this today with a cardone refurb from autozone.
Question: Should I disconnect the battery while swapping out the motors, then reconnect for the reset procedure? I didn't see anything about it in the write up, but I know that sometimes it's recommended for doing electrical work.
Edit: read the whole thread, nothing about the battery, so I'm just gonna go for it.
Edit 2: So I swapped out the motors, hooked everything back up and....it works, sort of. The window comes down fine after being reset. However, it goes up very slowly sometimes doesnt make it to the top. I tore the door down again to inspect the track engagement, found it to be fine, but the motor was really hot to the touch. Put it back together, and after cycling it up and down about 10 times, it is getting faster, but still not as fast or as strong as the passenger door. Upon reading the instructions that came with the motor, it says to lubricate the gear assembly inside the regulator. Did anyone else have to do this?
Question: Should I disconnect the battery while swapping out the motors, then reconnect for the reset procedure? I didn't see anything about it in the write up, but I know that sometimes it's recommended for doing electrical work.
Edit: read the whole thread, nothing about the battery, so I'm just gonna go for it.
Edit 2: So I swapped out the motors, hooked everything back up and....it works, sort of. The window comes down fine after being reset. However, it goes up very slowly sometimes doesnt make it to the top. I tore the door down again to inspect the track engagement, found it to be fine, but the motor was really hot to the touch. Put it back together, and after cycling it up and down about 10 times, it is getting faster, but still not as fast or as strong as the passenger door. Upon reading the instructions that came with the motor, it says to lubricate the gear assembly inside the regulator. Did anyone else have to do this?
Last edited by ReelBigAndy; Oct 5, 2011 at 04:10 PM.
Another thanks for this thread! My '03 Z had my driver side window acting up. I would have to the bang-the-door-while-pushing-the-window-button trick to make it move up and down. After 2 months of doing this and with the window rolling up very slowly at this point, I decided to give this a try. I bought the cardone refurbished motor from orielly.
The process took about an hour and it was actually easy. I did the reset and everything has been working fine for 2 weeks now. A friend would definitely help to hold and align stuff while you tighten bolts, but it can be done alone. I've never done anything like this before, so going back and forth looking at the pictures ate up some time. When my passenger window goes out, I think I can do this again in 30-45 mins. Just be careful when tightening up the bolts, I'm sure I stripped one of them. I opened up my old motor out of curiosity and it was just as dirty as the pictures people are showing here.
If I can do this, anyone can.
The process took about an hour and it was actually easy. I did the reset and everything has been working fine for 2 weeks now. A friend would definitely help to hold and align stuff while you tighten bolts, but it can be done alone. I've never done anything like this before, so going back and forth looking at the pictures ate up some time. When my passenger window goes out, I think I can do this again in 30-45 mins. Just be careful when tightening up the bolts, I'm sure I stripped one of them. I opened up my old motor out of curiosity and it was just as dirty as the pictures people are showing here.
If I can do this, anyone can.
Son of a b*tch........
I've been lucky up until now to dodge this infamous window motor trouble.... but just today my passenger window started acting funny..... When I roll it down it hesitates..... It goes down fast but it's choppy. I can actually feel it shake the car a little. I'm not much of a DIY guy, I'm not a fan of taking apart things that have plastic clips that hold them in place for fear of totally breaking something.... ugh, this is definitely a FML moment.
I've been lucky up until now to dodge this infamous window motor trouble.... but just today my passenger window started acting funny..... When I roll it down it hesitates..... It goes down fast but it's choppy. I can actually feel it shake the car a little. I'm not much of a DIY guy, I'm not a fan of taking apart things that have plastic clips that hold them in place for fear of totally breaking something.... ugh, this is definitely a FML moment.



