Hey Jasonz, Ok so going with SPL Front Arm finally. My question is since Im taking SPC front arm off I figured that I should be taking off their hub shim kit as well (correct me if I wrong). Since I didnt install this stuff, on the SPC instruction video they trim some TABs on the hub dust cover. On trimming the dust cover is that something thats going to cause the need to replace it to avoid damage to the hub since Im replacing SPC's stuff

 

NVM found the answer

 

Do you have the instruction manual?? im curious of this, but the dust cover shouldn't matter one bit, but definitely remove the shim!

on the spl upper control arms, you can make/fabricate additional shims to add at most an additional 1 degree at most. don't make tons of shims thinking you can add 3 more degrees or anything, 1 at most....

OR

turn both rod end mount points the same amount of turns/half turns, etc to gain more camber......with the corresponding caster you desire..

however, you must ensure the upper arm clears the upper chamber of the unibody before connecting it to the spindle by articulating it upwards and ensure it doesnt hit the unibody......it will hit the plastic under fender liner first..., which can be trimmed..

Read my spl upper arm install how to:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...?highlight=spl
-J

 

I wouldnt know how to comment, having never driven or tested any megan coilovers.....ive heard the same type of comments from those i trust, but thats why i made the "actual coilover thread"...to gain reviews...

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ic-thread.html

-J

 

I'll add a note on the Spec RS's a little later.

 

cool...sounds good..

-j

 

I haven't heard or seen these till now.....

Momentum Performance upper arms???

http://www.importpartspro.com/sus01g001.html


their description doesn't mention caster adjustment......so im guessing their overall length may not allow it, as the z upper cavity only allows so much room......their description of +/-4 degree's of camber suggest that if you alter some of the spindle mounted end section then the frame mounted ends can be turned to adjust caster..........if anyone purchases these, please report back....

these appear as they can be an spl competitor.......
-J

 

JasonZ-YA:
Our 350Z/ G35 Front Upper Control Arms do offer caster adjustability by means of the inner rod ends.

We design these parts with the track junkie and or lowered suspension enthusiast in mind. Clearly the factory front suspension doesn't offer the adjustability that everyone that modifies their cars would want. Our product development model puts us testing our parts on the road course quite often, so with desire to have a true track suspension alignment, we choose to develop a race inspired front control arm set. They are CNC machined from 7075 aluminum and hard black anondized for protection, durability and good looks. They come with Aurora rod ends and all the parts needed for installation. We have found through our testing that they really provide significant suspension rigidity and give the driver a precise, tactile feedback that you want in a track vehicle. Check out this video we put together after a weekend of testing at Carolina Motorsports Park in Kershaw, SC. We were testing the control arms during this track day and at the end of the video, there is a really cool shot of the control arms on the car, in the fender well, while on track. If you guys have any more questions about them, feel free to post, pm or contact one of our Certified Dealers!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4XT3lmdlFA

 

Got them in stock and ready for shipment.

 

^ great....

I believe everything you wrote knowing what im looking at....build quality, etc...

1. Any specs on turning the spindle mount link in, and turning the frame mounted links, how much caster adjustment your arms are capable of??

+/- 1 degree is all thats really needed on the z...can they do that do at least that..

2. Can you post a picture of the spindle to upper arm mount?? what size nut is used? I ask for ease of track side camber adjustments.....I see it in the vid....

-J

 

JasonZ-YA:

When we had our test car on the alignment rack, we were able to get +/- 1.5 to 2 degrees of caster adjustment and this put us right where we wanted to be be for an aggressive track alignment. With the caster adjustment being made by lengthening or shortening the inner rod ends, this is not the easiest thing done at the track, but caster is not typically an adjustment that changes per track. As for the camber, this is fairly easy to adjust by removing the tire, loosening the outer rod end jam nut, removing the top ball joint adapter nut, turning the 1/2" rod end in or out, and then putting it all back together. Some companies choose to put in an adjuster with a jam nut on either end (attached picture) and while this does allow adjustment on the vehicle with minimal effort, we saw this as a sacrifice of rigidity and performance.

 

[QUOTE=Bobby@Momentum;9059333]JasonZ-YA:
When we had our test car on the alignment rack, we were able to get +/- 1.5 to 2 degrees of caster adjustment and this put us right where we wanted to be be for an aggressive track alignment. With the caster adjustment being made by lengthening or shortening the inner rod ends, this is not the easiest thing done at the track, but caster is not typically an adjustment that changes per track.
[QUOTE]


oh ya, i dont care about track side caster changing, that i wasnt asking about....only camber...

What is that nut size??? thats what im asking, can we see a pic of the installed arm close up at the spindle mount location???


ya, ive seen that stuff on rear arms, etc on the Z usually, not on front upper arms...i doubt there is even room for that on the Z front upper arms common to the caster frame mounted points....

-J

 

Jason,

I got my SPL arms and just wanted to confirm an installation question. On the arms one side is angled more, does this side go towards the front of the car or rear? I believe it goes towards the front from what I can put together and when I looked in your SPL DIY it looks like that. But dont want to spend the time to find out I did it wrong, thanks for the help

 

Jason when you get a moment-

I had the SPL arms installed, was running into bolts that were torqued on too tight for the tools I have. SPC's wonderful clunk is finally gone . Now Im getting it dialed in, my alignment came back with the caster high and I have some difference in camber from side to side. The specs below are with all shims in and caster was stock on the arms from SPL. My car is lowered 1.5" all around in general, except I did level it side to side vs stock(kept front to back ratio the same). I know I might need some additional shims to be able to get the camber to match made(do you still make these? ). On the caster, is this high enough to worry about driving? From your SPL DIY it looks like the rod end closest to the back of the car would be turned .2" roughly to get back to spec?

 

Jason, got a question.

I have the Tein Comfort Sports coilovers and just came to the realization that when I change my ride height, I'm also changing my spring rate. what effects will this have on the ride quality and the life of the coils.

they are not cheap coils and I figured Tein would have designed them to handle the drop, but I can't help but think I'm doing some harm to them the same way I would be from dropping the stock suspension on lowering springs.

I've had them for a year and they still feel great. I ended up getting them over the Flex since its my daily and the GF rides with me frequently.

 

Honestly I wouldn't worry about the caster. That difference you refer to is in almost every Z i've seen and the slight out of spec shouldn't hurt a thing. Caster is only realized at significant steering lock. So the chance you will notice the additional .50 is unlikely. Everything else on the spec sheet looks good.

 

Its not really spring rate your changing, its the spring preload. And if done within the propper range of adjustment will not cause any issues. However the problem arises when you really try to slam a car. This type of setup not only robs travel but you begin to put stresses on the shock that probably weren't expected. So in general, that way of adjusting is ok provided you stay within the limits set by the maker.

 

Jason, I,m new to the z-sene. I just bought an 03'. The front tires are like new but upon getting it inspected the very inside edge in worn to the cords. I sent it for new tires and an allignment. The shop is telling me that the suspention sags and that I need a kit to overcome the problem, and to get enough adjustment to alln. should I be doing that or invest in suspention. I love this car, it is nasty. I just want to do it right without regrets in the future.

 

Compression arm bushing and inproper toe can cause that. Most 03's are going to need a couple of bushings swapped by now.

 

Hey Jason, read up this thread awhile back and i plan on getting SPL front compression rod bushings but i found a full front set by Energy Suspension being sold by a vendor here. If i'm only going down an inch in front, would i need the SPL bushing or could my Z be able to handle just the energy suspension bushing as far as the front compression rod is concerned. Thanks