Longevity of full builds, the good the bad
12-11-2010, 06:34 AM
#261
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southeast
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you want to track your car and partial to the Nissan community and the nice folks attracted to the platform it's simple - buy a GTR. Nissan engineered the car to get the crap beat out of it right out of the box. I've had mine for a year now, 15 track days, airstrip, etc. Etc. Not one issue. In stock form it makes 400 at the wheel and will do over 150 in the back straight at road Atlanta and over 160 at vir. You can't beat the value. Just a basic over conservative tune gets you another 100hp although I don't know what I would do with it at the track, my skill level is below what the car has today 
)))
Edit: compared to my built g35 it also notable that all the temps on the gtr run considerably lower vs the built VQ35 I asked sharif once and he said the 3.8L block in the gtr is designed from the factory to dissipate more heat. I can tell a significant difference when beating on the gtr vs the built g35.
)))Edit: compared to my built g35 it also notable that all the temps on the gtr run considerably lower vs the built VQ35 I asked sharif once and he said the 3.8L block in the gtr is designed from the factory to dissipate more heat. I can tell a significant difference when beating on the gtr vs the built g35.
Last edited by ToastZ; 12-11-2010 at 06:47 AM.
12-11-2010, 06:45 AM
#262
Turbo Whore
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West suburbs of Chi-town
Posts: 7,303
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The reason a rod bearing fails is because of excessive friction with the crankshaft. Friction causes a rapid rise in heat. Therefore your bearing started "dragging" as it spun around the crankshaft and heated up itself and the rod that it's attached to.
12-11-2010, 02:42 PM
#268
"ONLY USE IF YOU WANT A SPUN BEARING" with a picture of a jug of 5w30 mobil1.
I proceed to ask, and the tuner said don't use it, seen too many cars come in and have issues that are completely related to that specific oil. examples. Supra spun a bearing on his dyno, honda's having issues with Vtec, and I know Forced Performance doesn't recommend it for their journal bearing turbos. There is plenty of chat about how poor of an oil mobil1 has become on evom. That was just further confirmed upon my trip to my local tuner
Links:
Don't use mobile 1, it will ruin your journal turbo
"Do you guys know that MOBILE 1 stopped using phosphates, the oil that we once knew is no longer the same, IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SAME QUALITY AS BEFORE.
STOP USING MOBILE 1"
Forced Performance Recommendations
"Mobil 1 used to be considered such oil[offering high pressure film strength], but it has been many years since it was
reformulated and “watered down” to accommodate OEM emissions and fuel efficiency requirements."
I personally run amsoil in my Z -> 5w40 and 10w40
and 10w40 in my Evo
Last edited by Zivman; 12-11-2010 at 02:43 PM.
12-11-2010, 03:04 PM
#269
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southeast
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For street use the mobile1 0-40 is fine per the oil analysis over on nagtroc. For extreme track use it shears quite a bit and quickly. I use it for daily driving and during the track season in use motul and I get an oil analysis each change.
The consensus I have read is mobil is a great factory fill option for sports cars that never see any hard use. You need something more prepared to the task. There is a member over on nagtroc that is mixing oils and doing analysis each change with track use, etc. It's pretty interesting the data he post!
I would not run my car hard with mobil1 in it and if I did it would be fresh oil and changed after the event.
The consensus I have read is mobil is a great factory fill option for sports cars that never see any hard use. You need something more prepared to the task. There is a member over on nagtroc that is mixing oils and doing analysis each change with track use, etc. It's pretty interesting the data he post!
I would not run my car hard with mobil1 in it and if I did it would be fresh oil and changed after the event.
12-11-2010, 03:26 PM
#270
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southeast
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aaron, thanks for the links. The forced performance link actually has a real analysis behind it !!! Look how far we have come in these many years. We would have paid extra for APS to provide that info back in the day (lol),,, during the first APS kit installs
12-12-2010, 04:43 AM
#272
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running 15-50 Mobil 1 synthetic and have ~13K miles on the build.
These right ups about "don't use Mobile 1" appear to be conventional oil not Synthetic. How does Mobile 1 Synthetic stand up?
You guys are making me nervous
These right ups about "don't use Mobile 1" appear to be conventional oil not Synthetic. How does Mobile 1 Synthetic stand up?
You guys are making me nervous
12-12-2010, 05:43 AM
#273
^ the way I see it is.. if its mobil 1, royal purple, amsoil etc etc... as long as they all are 5w30 and synthetic ( for ex ).. there all the same... I have put different brands of oil through out the years and they all have been synthetic 5w30... NA or FI... I could NOT tell the difference between switching to a different oil brand.. As long as you have the right weight of oil for your build you should be fine,imo.. I dont think a particular oil could damage your motor... other factors will come to play, like some have mentioned .... oil temp, oil level etc etc, that will kill your motor...
Cant just jump to a conclusion and say that this " oil brand " killed my motor.. There needs to be some hardcore evidence/proof to say this.
Theres always that one company that will say this oil is better than that oil... thats all advertisements to me.
Have some good gauges that will monitor your oil press, oil temp and just check your oil level every week and add oil if it needs it.. you should be fine.
Cant just jump to a conclusion and say that this " oil brand " killed my motor.. There needs to be some hardcore evidence/proof to say this.
Theres always that one company that will say this oil is better than that oil... thats all advertisements to me.
Have some good gauges that will monitor your oil press, oil temp and just check your oil level every week and add oil if it needs it.. you should be fine.
12-12-2010, 05:59 AM
#274
hopefully you dont really believe that. You might not be able to tell the difference, but Blackstone Labs sure can.
^ the way I see it is.. if its mobil 1, royal purple, amsoil etc etc... as long as they all are 5w30 and synthetic ( for ex ).. there all the same... I have put different brands of oil through out the years and they all have been synthetic 5w30... NA or FI... I could NOT tell the difference between switching to a different oil brand.. As long as you have the right weight of oil for your build you should be fine,imo.. I dont think a particular oil could damage your motor... other factors will come to play, like some have mentioned .... oil temp, oil level etc etc, that will kill your motor...
Cant just jump to a conclusion and say that this " oil brand " killed my motor.. There needs to be some hardcore evidence/proof to say this.
Theres always that one company that will say this oil is better than that oil... thats all advertisements to me.
Have some good gauges that will monitor your oil press, oil temp and just check your oil level every week and add oil if it needs it.. you should be fine.
Cant just jump to a conclusion and say that this " oil brand " killed my motor.. There needs to be some hardcore evidence/proof to say this.
Theres always that one company that will say this oil is better than that oil... thats all advertisements to me.
Have some good gauges that will monitor your oil press, oil temp and just check your oil level every week and add oil if it needs it.. you should be fine.
12-12-2010, 06:22 AM
#276
..My take on it is that all these motors that spun bearings and are toast.. isnt because of a brand of oil.. more like a problem when it was put together.. or the owner just doesnt look out for minor things.. like checking your oil level.
12-12-2010, 08:47 AM
#277
Different oils produce different levels of bearing metals in the oil analysis - that's for sure. I've found better results with Mobil1 0W40 vs Mobil1 15W50 and Motul 300V. I'm not too happy with Eneous 0W50 either in terms of oil consumption - the sample is going to Blackstone this week. Going to Rotella T6 next and hopefully by reports that will be a keeper.
