Count me in on the roll race, stock block champs FTW!!!

BTW frank saw my knock sensor connector almost melting and moved/shielded it a couple months back.... seems pretty common...

 

 

Good, glad to hear that is not a short.

 

frank also replaced a melted connecter on top of my trans. case

i guess it gets pretty hot down there

godspeed brother, count me in on this stock block race !

 

he already said that he removed them all at once but the reasoning i was thinking was keeping the a/c still attached. I haven't opened my factory a/c unit once after 3 times of having this engine out and i don't ever plan on it.

200$ for a/c service at the local dealership is bs along with the punk technition that can't drive a car with a twin disk clutch. Never again.

 

Jeff - We only had the car on jack stands, so the engine had to drop down a bit and then come straight out the front. Not the most efficient way of doing it, but the best I could do without a lift.

 

Damn, just read most of this thread. 1st, even though it may not have been the problem, I'm damn glad I have an oil cooler. 2nd Glad I am a mechanic so when, not if my motor blows, I'll DIY everything. and Finally, glad I went into F/I knowing I was going to blow a motor, just hope IF (prays I don't) blow 5 motors, I'll have the sense to stop...lol Good to see your keeping with it. Fingers crossed for ya to keep it together this time.

 

damn, you need 3 cans of 6$ refrigerant and the 20$ hose kit. Suprising you went to the dealer so such a basic thing LOL

 

That's how i do mine. I tear everything off the front and i just swivel the a/c condensor out of the way so i can pull the engine straight out.

Did you take the engine and trans out together? That's how i've always done it but i'm sick of draining and filling the trans fluid so i was curious how hard it is to re-install the engine and get the trans mated with the engine (since it's a PITA to get the splines on the input shaft lined up)

 

I have the stuff to do a recharge (gauges and all) but i don't have the vacuum in order to get all the moisture out of the system. I do the work on my other vehicles but truthfully they aren't realy as important to me so i don't care if the a/c system isn't working the greatest due to contamination.

A lot of factors played into me taking it to them at the time. I was working full time at 2 hospitals, was still living in an apartment (no house with a garage at that time), since i had no house with garage my tools were all at the bike dealership that i used to work at and i wouldn't have after hours access since i was no longer an employee, and the car was still under my warranty plan (and still bone stock).

So do you not vacuum yours down when you open it up and expose it to moisture?

 

I had no idea that the core would swivel on the AC lines. Remember that my engine compartment is fully painted, so I have to be careful about what the lines contact or that streching them would crack the paint at the bends. Regardless, I can only hope that I never have to repeat this process. I used to wonder why people would work on the car over a month or two, just bits at a time. Now I know why. There were days where I was just sick of it, yo work for hours and make what looks like minimal progress.

I took the engine and trans out as one unit and it went back in the same way. I was told that the carbon clutches are sensitive to cracking if you diesel them to much when putting the trans on, so it was a two man job that was done carefully.

 

I did this the same way you did. Pull the front end off, move AC, pull engine straight out. But I left the Trans in the car. It wasn't too hard for me to bolt it back together. It was myself and a friend who put the motor back in the car.

The only problem we had was we had both downpipes on and couldn't get it to slide in, so we took one off ( the driver side, but I should have tried the passenger ) and then she went into place. I have the APS 3.5" downpipes so I don't know if smaller downpipes would fit or not.

 

My knock sensor connector melted down on me once and the car didn't start and that freaked me out since I just put the engine together after spun bearing.


Cass, I'm right behind you man, I'm working on my 4th engine now lol.

 

I hope my fix on the knock sensor is OK. I thought the hard piece on the harness below the connector was a melted mess, so I cut it off below that only to find out that is where the two wires become an inside wire that is insulated and then wrapped by the other wire in a sheath and covered again with insulation.

When the tow driver came to pick it up I turned the key to the aux position and got the VDC and SLIP lights. Its been so long since I've turned the car on I've forgotten what its supposed to look like pre-start

You, me, Gord and Berto in the multiple engines club

 

Yep the two wires from the sensor turn into a coax....was a little tricky tapping into it at the ECU, lots of room for error. Inside conductor is signal and the outer shield is ground.

FYI VDC+slip should only flash briefly when you turn on the key. If it stays on pull the code(s) to see why.

 

IT LIVES

After spending a day going over all the nuts, bolts and connections the car fired up without incident and is showing 30lbs oil pressure and oil temps of ~180*F @ idle. New Defi Blue Racer gauges in the center cluster for voltage, oil pressure and oil temp look amazing.

It is only pulling 15 (I forget the unit of measure) vacuum @ idle so we are doing a quick smoke test this morning to check for any leaks. The only issue we found was a small pinhole in a weld on a cap for the oil pan where the oil returns used to be routed for the turbos.

 

 

Congrats brother

 

Good stuff. What are you going to use for EMS and tuning?

 

Congrats Chris as it seems like its been forever.