No way...Not this sh*t again...

Idk what i can say to you chris...man...I'm sorry and good luck...

 

Chris.....add this for a little win....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KATEC...Q5fCarQ5fParts

 

That intake is sex.

 

omg that thing is ridiculous.

 

Mike - 522hp on the enginge dyno for $22K = Meh

Whatever I do it will require that AC is available. I'm not all about sweating to death everytime the car goes out.

 

^but thats thru restrictor plates. that dry sump setup could sit the motor like a foot lower than the VQ. Thats a wild motor.

 

Can't be done.... No way to get over 800whp and have AC. Never been done

From my experience ... Any motor that's built correctly.... Or should I say "over built"....with the best supporting components and done correctly have never failed on me... Knock on wood!!!! My rule of thumb is.... I always build for 200 whp more than I need.... That's just me.

As far as the oil cooler.... If I could install 4 ...I would have.... But only 2 would fit..... Not saying that was your issue....just saying don't leave home without it next time.

For all those praising the LS motor..... There is a place here in TX that specialize in Vipers and Vettes.....I am sure you all know who I am talking about.....I have seen my share of blown viper and vette motors over there.....guys that are going for 1200+ whp and failing...... But you don't hear much about that do you I do.... Because I am up there a lot .

There is a shop in Florida that does the same cars ..... But will only build the cars HIS WAY... Meaning.... Only the the best parts list will be used.... His way or he will not do the work.....it's expensive of course.... But zero engine failures to date.... This is who is building Beast #3 for me.(not a Nissan)

So I don't care what you build.... If not done correctly .... Any setup will fail. What happens if Chris does this LS motor and that blows up also...... What then.....

IMO... Chris should look at all the builds on here that have been successful and do what they have done. Pick a shop with a good track record even if he has to send the car cross country.... They will pay for transport anyway......

Chris... Pm me what your plans are....

 

As far as running 2 oil coolers do you just run a line from the oil filter to cooler A then a line from cooler a to cooler b then a line from cooler b to the return on the oil filter spacer?

I'm about to put together an oil cooler for my car, wondering if I should do 2 for the sake of doing 2. Although I don't deal with all that high of heat, (same as cass) however I do run a stock block.

 

^Correct answer.

 

You want to y off the hot oil feed and send hot oil to both coolers.

 

soo what oil temps do you guys see?? I am seeing 225 on the highway out of boost.... Oil cooler gets hooked up next week so I will be able to document the amount it changes the temps.

Weird thing is driving stop light to stoplight and running the car in boost I was seeing lower oil temp 215-220...

What temps are you guys seeing??

 

My temp gauge reports 240s after boosting in the summer. 220 just cruising. I have a B&M oil cooler (I think 10 x 6 x 1.5) sitting in front of the driver's side of the radiator.

EDIT: This is with a 9:1 compression built motor with 16k miles running 15-16 psi 520-540 whp, 500 wtq.

 

your built running like 700hp though right???

At what temp is considered "warning" I was under the impression 240 was borderline lol

 

I think the GTR "redline" for oil temp is 260 degF. Can someone confirm? Sharif has raced his older 350z track car at the 280 deg mark by his report (as I recall) with no failure of his sleeved motor or untoward damage observed on tear down...

I don't know that everyone needs to run out and buy oil coolers. Just get a temp gauge on there so that you know what temps your engine internals are seeing.

 

I already have a mocal oil cooler with -10 lines its mounted but we didnt have long enough lines at the shop and we are heading to NJ tonight for a show soo the lines will get hooked up next week.

I kinda like it this way... it will give me a chance to see what kinda difference this oil cooler really makes.

 

I don't have a temp gauge but I can tell when the oil is hotter by the idle PSI. I can confirm it seems hottest after getting off the freeway even without boosting.

Mix 5/6 gear pulls with the freeway driving on a hot day, and I can see the temp skyrocketing...

 

makes sense randy thanks!! I was guessing constant strain vs on/off you just made it more technical and sound logical

 

Cass, are your turbos oil cooled, water cooled, or oil + water?

I would think that oil-only cooling would put the biggest strain on the oil temps..

 

I am going to wait until Sharif answers your question.... I don't eNt to give any wrong info on something this important......you can view pictures of the twin oil setup on my cardomain site.

Can anyone name one... Just one factory FI car that comes WITHOUT an oil cooler ??? All my factory TT cars come with 2.... Even my 93 RX7 R1 came with 2. Don't fool yourself into thinging the turbo cools the oil...I don't care if you road race or street race....you need atleast one....that heat car break down oil in under 500 miles.....

Driving an FI car without an oil cooler is like driving a G/Z with over 500whp on stock brakes .... You maybe lucky and nothing happens... Or maybe not. I am sure you all don't think I put those big azz brakes on my car because I think they look good.... Brake fade is not a good feeling at 130mph heading for a corner

 

Oil and water.

Thanks for the advice Mike, always appreciated.

I spent 7+hours on teardown today. Fuel lines, rails and injectors are out. Driveshaft, exhaust mid-pipes, trans fluid are done. Intakes to both turbos, wiring harness, alternator and power steering pump are removed. Having a small issue with the AC condenser, one of the lines is looped around a coolant line for the turbo and the hot pipe from the turbo is too close to the engine to slide it past. Not sure how I will solve that yet

Had my first glitch today as well. When I was removing the front support brace the bolt on the passengers side that is inside the round section and inset inside the brace stripped on me. I'm not sure how this happens when using the correct sized socket, but I suppose the motor has been out like 5 times, so its had some use. Anyhow, it took over an hour of drilling to get the head and support ring to pop off. I had to use a 2lb sledge hammer and a wood splitting wedge as well .

Luckily, as soon as it came out I was able to remove the rest of the bolt by hand. I'm definately going to be feeling that in the morning.

Off for a night out with my wife on our 16th wedding anniversary.... Love That Woman... she's the best.