Another built motor Vortech dreamer thread.
thought they had a Dyno Dynamics and not a dynojet..
time to update your sig!
OVer 60whp gain is a good chunk.
Wonder what hal is doing for the traction control. Ignition retard?
time to update your sig!
OVer 60whp gain is a good chunk.
Wonder what hal is doing for the traction control. Ignition retard?
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From: greenville, sc
They changed dynos, his old one is still laying next to the new one, lol. I'm really not a 100% on what all is involved, but I'm pretty sure it's through retarding. It works pretty good.
Can you post up the whole Dyno? And the one before the last?
I bought your blower is out of steam.
On my stock motor I'm making power to 6800rpm and TQ over 6000rpm.
Your power is falling off @ 6350rpm....
I bought your blower is out of steam.
On my stock motor I'm making power to 6800rpm and TQ over 6000rpm.
Your power is falling off @ 6350rpm....
NO! Your car runs well, just there is a lot left on the table.
IMO
#1 Issue is belt slip problems. HP should not be falling off @ 6350rpm. With the C2 cams IMO it should make power to over 7000rpm.
#2. May be Intercooler. This may be hold holding you back some. You can't cheap out here. Tons of power is to be made or lost here. I don't know the Spec of what you have now.
Don't get focused on Boost to much. Monitoring PSi is more for Diagnosis. Motor wise Hp & TQ thrught-out the RPM is what matters. Making that power is a result of how much AIR you cram into the, and how easy you can get it out. Keeping the AIR as Cold as possible means you can cram more Air in and make more power.
For every 5.5f degrees you raise the Intake Temp, you Loose 1% Power & TQ.......
That means if you are in the 500whp range and you have lower the ATI's 27.5f degrees you just gained 5% HP & TQ thru out the RPM Range. At max power, that's a 25whp gain, and if you don't, you are leaving that on the table, not to be had. Think about it
For compairison, my ATI's are 8-10f degrees above Ambiant on a full hard run. Note this must be logged, as ATI's will be all over the place. It's can go way up when you get out of the throttle or just cruising around town. The temps that matter are under full load, boost and rpm (hard driving).
IMO
#1 Issue is belt slip problems. HP should not be falling off @ 6350rpm. With the C2 cams IMO it should make power to over 7000rpm.
#2. May be Intercooler. This may be hold holding you back some. You can't cheap out here. Tons of power is to be made or lost here. I don't know the Spec of what you have now.
Don't get focused on Boost to much. Monitoring PSi is more for Diagnosis. Motor wise Hp & TQ thrught-out the RPM is what matters. Making that power is a result of how much AIR you cram into the, and how easy you can get it out. Keeping the AIR as Cold as possible means you can cram more Air in and make more power.
For every 5.5f degrees you raise the Intake Temp, you Loose 1% Power & TQ.......
That means if you are in the 500whp range and you have lower the ATI's 27.5f degrees you just gained 5% HP & TQ thru out the RPM Range. At max power, that's a 25whp gain, and if you don't, you are leaving that on the table, not to be had. Think about it
For compairison, my ATI's are 8-10f degrees above Ambiant on a full hard run. Note this must be logged, as ATI's will be all over the place. It's can go way up when you get out of the throttle or just cruising around town. The temps that matter are under full load, boost and rpm (hard driving).
Last edited by OldManZ350; Feb 8, 2015 at 02:40 PM.
First what Fuel are you using? Street and Drags.....?
Blower Cars Love NO2, ton's of HP to be made...... But the more you make the more Fuel you need. All components of the car need to be matched.
Blower Cars Love NO2, ton's of HP to be made...... But the more you make the more Fuel you need. All components of the car need to be matched.
Last edited by OldManZ350; Feb 8, 2015 at 09:40 PM.
Hmm. Interesting. When I was on the dyno getting lots of slip my boost on the chart was dancing around the last 3-500 rpm showing extreme visible slip. Jon pointed it out it was real bad. Wish I still had that version of my dyno sheet
Josh michaels.. as we pre talk at facebook messenger.. you have belt slip issue at top rpm.. plate flexing.. i seen the video and its flexing and belt become lose.
i lived all this drama for months in my z. and years in my supercharged maxima..
i lived all this drama for months in my z. and years in my supercharged maxima..
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Thanks, what kind of engine build do you have? I might throw on my 2.75 pulley for the dyno next weekend and see what happens. I'm really just looking for about a 100hp increase on the same dyno from my smaller blower @550hp. If I can put down around 630-640 on that dyno at CIN I'll be happy and my bigger blower won't be such a waste to me.
Thanks, what kind of engine build do you have? I might throw on my 2.75 pulley for the dyno next weekend and see what happens. I'm really just looking for about a 100hp increase on the same dyno from my smaller blower @550hp. If I can put down around 630-640 on that dyno at CIN I'll be happy and my bigger blower won't be such a waste to me.
Your impeller calculations were what again for that pulley? If you take the time to calculate impeller speeds at the point where it drops off and can log IAT against that, you can start to tell if the blower is dropping off etc.
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If I'm not slipping, it's spinning up to 65k. Blower is rated to 58 I believe. Power starts dropping at 6350rpms give or take. That puts the blower right at 59k. So there it is.. Out of it's range and it starts to drop..
I'm assuming you're tuned on Volumetric Efficiency? Look up how to data log your intake temperature sensor on the haltech. Then go do a few pulls. Post up either screenshots or what you saw.
Also a lot of these people are trying to compare dyno numbers. Dyno is a tool for measuring changes on a given day, and for ease of tuning. Comparing two different cars on two different dyno's is a crap shoot. Especially dynosty's dyno which is well known for reading quite low. That 700whp YSI car would be pretty close to 600whp on the dynosty dyno I bet. Possibly even lower.
Ultimately yeah you probably are slipping some, but the IAT temp is what's going to tell you what's causing that power curve beyond the psi curve.
If you're heating up at that point there are a few things you can do to help make more power. Bigger IC piping, bigger FMIC will both reduce intake speed, and reduce pressure loss. Both of these will decrease intake temps. Easier than that is just adding some water meth. That would probably get you more gains for less money and work. But first I'd get that belt working as best as possible.
My gripe would be the 2.75" piping is pretty much maxed out for the max cfm a Ti could push. That doesn't mean the car can't make power, it just means it would make more with a 3". How much? I don't actually know.
Last edited by Resmarted; Feb 9, 2015 at 03:01 PM.
dynosty uses a dynojet. cin;s website says they are on a mustang, which you can setup however you want. Classically a properly setup mustang will read equal to a dynojet if not lower.
If you think Hal left alot on the table, did you talk to him about that?
looks like 40-50* temp increase but it drops immediately after dropping out of boost. i'd like to see Oldmans 8* increase over the same kinda of pull.
could be intercooler but could also be past the supercharger efficiency.
plot your boost vs rpm. that will immediately tell you if you have slip.
If you think Hal left alot on the table, did you talk to him about that?
looks like 40-50* temp increase but it drops immediately after dropping out of boost. i'd like to see Oldmans 8* increase over the same kinda of pull.
could be intercooler but could also be past the supercharger efficiency.
plot your boost vs rpm. that will immediately tell you if you have slip.









