I coudn't tell where it was coming from. All i know it was dripping from the back of the pan down one of the bolts.

 

Looks like i'll be pulling my engine this weekend to get it looked at. I really don't want to pull it but i want it fixed.

 

Get'er done man. The journey is the reward!

 

such a great quote...

I hate to suggest this - I was gonna throw this out earlier in the thread but...

get back from what you can from the shop that did the work and move on...

plan on removing the engine, breaking the engine down, inspect/clean each component, and leave no stone un-turned during this rebuild process.

get the heads machined and block inspected...

I'd do this yourself and find a good 'engine' guy that you can pay some cash to inspect the engine and rebuild the engine with you along the way during nights & evenings.

This sucks bc the shop sorta stiffed you ... but at the end of the day it's the risk we all take. There's no guarantees in modified engines and this will cost you a few hundred dollars...

The bigger picture and the big win here is the knowledge you gain from taking this on...learn the entire process from start to finish and start the process of becoming an expert.

It could quite possibly be the most gratifying and/or satisfying thing you'll do in your entire life.

 

Well, i asked Mike the owner what it's going to cost me for him to go through it again since there is nothing else i can do and this was his response: "Nothing if I screwed something up ☺ and very little if its not your issue or mine (such as a cracked liner or something)." If there is indeed a crack i have no idea what i'm going to do my other block is not usable with out sleeves.

So i will start pulling the Engine after work today. All i can say is i hate long tube headers....

 

what do you guys think the most likely culprit?

uneven head/block surface?

Head gasket failure?

Improper torquing of head bolts?

I'm asking because this mechanic seems to point his finger in any direction other than his own at every opportunity?

maybe this time (What is it fourth) will be the charm!! Good luck Man!

 

that's pretty encouraging ... good for that shop owner ... what if he is your 'engine guy'... can you do all this work at his shop or can he come over and inspect with you?

 

I doubt it, since i don't get off until 4'ish and they close at 5 and traffic can take me 20-50 mins to make the 10 mile commute so they would be closed by the time i got there. They are also closed on the weekends so that doesn't help either.

I mean it would be nice to be able to do all the work and have them just watch me. That would allow them to keep on keeping on but, then comes a lot of liability issues if anything happens in their shop.

 

Time to find out of i can pull my engine with my headers still installed...

 

Engine can be pulled mostly, had to remove my driver side header to get the engine all the way out.

 

Insult to injury....no water in my oil....but there is fuel.

 

So they amended my oil results there is water but no coolant...

 

I’m lost :/

 

I'm trying to figure out how soo much water, or perhaps condensation got into your oil if it ain't coolant. That's the only other fluid flowing thru the motor besides the oil

Edit: Man if I was in your shows, once you have the block out, INSPECT EVERY CREVIS OF THAT MOTOR. Something ain't working right.

 

Im just as lost as you guys. I really wish they would/could find the original oil sample that was sent in that would have the best results on it. This oil only has a few mins of idle time on it so maybe not enough time for the oil and coolant to mix.

 

did your builder use L19s with HKS gaskets? a torque/hone plate? I know some folks say it's not necessary for open deck blocks but most of the top builders with flawless records use one.

 

I have L19's with cometic headgaskets.They didn't have to bore the block maybe rehone it but not bore so i don't think they a torque plate correct? The block was already bored out to 96mm.

 

Any word??

Hang in there!

 

Just dropped the engine back off at the shop. They want to pressurize the block with the upper pan off to find the leak. I don't really care I just want it fixed. I'm going on a month long TDY in April so as long as it's fixed by that time they can do what they want.

 

So just got the word that the water/oil mixing culprit was the coolant plug in the head...now I need to figure out the plan forward. What should I ask then to do to make sure the engine isn't FUBAR?