So if my wheels do not have gaps for the extended studs to go into then I can NOT use the spacers with built in studs?

 

As long as the spacers clear the original studs (stock = 25mm) then youll be ok without the gaps. Explained in detail on page 1.

 

^ exactly...

-J

 

^ exactly...

-J

 

I need someone to check my figures here. I've done a ton of research, here and elsewhere. I've run the offset calculator and all that. I just want to be sure I'm not way off base before I spend a bunch of money (just the spacers and wheel studs will be $400 ) .

Here is what I've come up with:

18x9 rims with 35mm offset on front. Will add 20mm hubcentric slip on spacers. Since it will be used on the track will add 3" ARP studs with Muteki open end lug nuts.

18x9 rims with 35mm offset on rear. Will add 10mm hubcentric slip on spacers. Same 3" ARP studs and Muteki lug nuts.

Since the wheels will be aftermarket they will come with centering rings.

I do not care about looks at all and if spacers are not needed for clearance on the rear then I'd be happy to leave them off.

 

^ Seems like you're doing it the right way. But I'm not clear what you need us to double-check you on? Can't really comment on fitment without knowing tire sizes.

 

+1

 

All this stuff is so new to me I just wanted folks with some experience to eyeball those numbers and make sure I'm not doing something idiotic. Someone might have done something similar and have a better idea.

In the Spec Z forums someone mentioned that I probably did not need the 10 mm spacer in the rear and I'm all for that. The less I have to buy the better off my marriage will be.

 

The answer to this question might be obvious but I'm new to the aftermarket wheel stuff, particularly in regard to a car that will be used on the track.

I've been trying to figure out which Enkei wheels to use for track wheels and all the stuff that goes with it (spacers, longer studs, etc). I thought I'd figured it all out, knew which spacers I needed, priced out some ARP studs and all that.

Well, I dug a little deeper in Enkei's specs and found some 18x9.5 wheels with low positive offset, like 15mm. Doing the math and measurements it looks like they will fit with no spacers at all, clear everything on the inside and stick out just enough on the outside to look good and give wider stance.

So the question is this: Is there any advantage to spacers vs getting the desired offset? Put another way, in a high quality racing wheel, like these Enkeis, is there any disadvantage to that low of a positive offset?

Thanks.

 

In my opinion, it is always ideal to mount the wheel directly to the hub (i.e. no spacer) if possible. And in that case you would not need to install longer studs (maybe just stronger ones since you will be tracking the car). While I think it is perfectly safe to run a well-machined hubcentric spacer with correspondingly longer studs, getting a wheel whose offset suits the application better and eliminates the spacer is the "right" way to do it IMO.

 

Spacers are useful if youre having inner clearance issues, or needing to clear brake calipers. Other than that I dont see a need for spacers on a +15. Fairly aggressive as it is.

 

Merged and I agree with both points

 

God dam, second time I posted today while mods were moving threads around and what I posted got lost. Chill out , btw this probably could have been moved to the Enkei thread, or just let it ride.

 

Waizzz has been on a merging spree lately. lol

 

Agree. Merging creates these epic threads that bury information in page after page of fluff. Lots of noise, little signal. But I'm not a mod so I'll defer to whatever they want to do.

Anyway, I'm looking at a set of Enkei RPF1 or PF01. They both come in 9.5" and 10.5" with 15mm offset. Going for a square set up. It looks like either width will fit perfect on the inside. Not sure if there will be problems on the outside. I'd hoped for either 9 or 10" wheels so they'd still be within spec for Spec Z. Neither of those come in the 15m offset. But chances are it would be a couple of years before I could even think about racing.

 

I appreciate the effort to keep things organized. Besides, if you just do a search Im sure youll find an answer, rather than add to the "fluff".

Your outer clearance will depend on ride height, tire size and camber.

 

I really suggest the 10.5 +15 combo for a serious track car, it gives you the option to run 275 or 285/35's at their full width. RS3's run really wide, R888's in 275 almost look pinched on a 10.5 wheel. Then of course, no spacers will be needed. NT03's are great too, you can run even wider tires on them, but you will probably need to space them to your needs.

Spacers do add a little bit of weight, but not getting wheels that are to aggressive an running different spacers will let you have a bigger selection of tires. Tires to evolve, and they don't always have the size you used to run.


Spec Z , if i were to put a car together, with my budget i would run something from Rota. they have 9's and 10's available in +20. Perfect for the track. they take a beating and are only 1 to 2 pounds more than Enkies. Depending on the person a 5 or 10mm spacer can easily be used to get the look you want.

 

At what point do you need to get either extended lugs or open ended lugs?

 

Extended lugs can make it easier to get to them without scratching your wheels up. Open ended lugs are only necessary if you have extended studs.

I know one person who got Enkei rims and needed longer studs to mount them on his G35. I still have not mounted my RPF1s so I do not know if I will need longer studs or not. Hope not. I will likely go to longer (stronger) studs in the near future since I track the car. ARP seems like the go-to racing studs. Then, of course, I will need open ended lug nuts.

 

well I know that, lol. what im asking is what length stud will require me to get either open ended or extended. For example, I will have a 10mm spacer on the rear, and a 17mm spacer on my front. Will my regular close ended tuner lug nuts fasten all the way?