Is anyone running spacers on a tt setup?
I was looking at running h&r spacers but not sure if they will handle 550hp

 

Of course they will, HP has nothing to do with it

 

As long as everything is installed correctly I think you should be OK.

 

Newb question...

I am ordering Concept One CSL5.5's next month and the fronts are +15 and rears are +20. I want to push the rears out to +15 like the front for a more flush look. What mm spacer would I need? A 5mm? What brand etc... etc..

 

5mm slip on should be fine. There are a plethora of 5mm spacers available for your car, many of which have comparable quality.

I'd look into H&R spacers for starters.

 

Thanks!

 

You're welcome.

 

ok, so i have 10mm project kics. the te37s have slots that clear the oen studs that protrude so i dodged a bullet there. now my only question is, i had a hubcentric ring to center the te37s to the oem hub but now with the 10mm spacer i cant use it. and kics only offers the 15mm and up hub ring attachment not for use with the 10mm. Do i need a hub centric ring? or can i just center my wheels lug centric ? also i came across this link that sells project kics 10mm with a ring? wierd

http://shop.tougefactory.com/product...6mm-HB%29.html

 

^ lug centric is completely fine... I explain it somewhere on here, but the thing about mounting a wheel using just the lug nuts is to lift the wheel as you HAND tighten a few lug nuts first, you want to ensure that the lug nut is tightening in more than one lug perfectly in the taper of the wheel.

so you pretty much have to be sitting on the ground, lifting up the wheel with one hand while you hand tighten two lug nuts (one at a time) ensuring that the tapered ends of the lug nuts fall/rest into the tapered section of the wheel in at least TWO locations.

from there hand tighten the rest of the lug nuts and then when you go to torque the lug nuts down the wheel isnt PULLED one way or the other due to the nut not exactly sitting or falling perfectly in the taper..

as for obtaining the correct ring, i would just call up vendors and get one if you really want one...measure and ensure you get what you need.....
Measure the project kic inner diamter and measure the wheel your using bore diameter like mentioned on page one of this thread.

Nearly all of my spacers are project kics....from what i have seen they all have a large bore and the hub ring is a tapered down ring that sits inside the spacer large bore and the lip is a smaller diameter to match factory wheel 66.1.

Ill try and measure my project kick inner diameter's later today...

-J

 

+1

Should be fine with just lugs as long as you torque everything down correctly.

 

They were back ordered a week. They weigh nothing. Well the studs and lugs have some weight. I was originally going to get Eibach 10mm with replacement studs. Then I thought besides being easier, this may be a better setup as it's less stress then using longer studs.


So I take them to the tire store as the tires have been there a week already. They remind me they have slight curb rash. Yeah, original owner's idea of mint condition better then new. Why doesn't this forum have seller ratings?


Oh yeah, back to the point. The oem studs don't tuck in side the cubby hole of the 2010 370Z Nismo wheels. Also, 15mm looked like they would stick out too far. I thought the new 255/35-19 tires were a 1/2 wider then the 245/45-19 OEM tires, but they look the same or skinnier.

 

10mm probably should have gone with extended studs

i know 20mm and 25mm are perfect for built in studs, is near perfect for making the spacer flush past the studs

 

Extended studs for anything less than 25mm, think I mentioned it before.

 

What do you think the iTrader: (#) below every member's name is about?

 

Buying parts on this forum:
















Oh and iTrader.

 

15mm is the perfect size, I don't have the nismos but I have sport rims.


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D'oh, I didn't notice it when I was on the 370Z side.

 

That looks tight but aren't the sports 19x9? ...so to equal 19x9.5 wouldn't I need 10mm (-5) for the extra 1/4" on each side?

Wait, if the offset is the same then the rim and/or tire width won't matter.
Damn, new math. Where's my calculator?


So the inside only has enough room to slide a thick sheet of paper between the tire and A-arm. The 255's are wider but the 245's had a rim protector lip that stuck out just as far. So i'd like more clearance from the a-arm but don't want too go to far out. I can roll the fenders but didn't want to.

 

I didn't even think of replacing the OEM studs with shorter ones to keep the Ichiba V2's. Is that A better setup then getting H&R with extended studs? Both sets (Kicks as well) would be hub centric (with included ring) but the extended studs make me feel like they would be too much stres on the stud.

 

i currently have 9.5 +22 in front and 10.5 +22 rear. If i get a 10mm in rear do i go with 10mm in front too or a 15mm spacer? I cant find any setups like this or havent any posted to see what it looks like