cheers~~oldman!!

 

here ya go. i looked at a few. seem to be good intercoolers for the price!

 

lol, i guess tim beat me to it. I saw the reply on my phone this morning but i didn't get a chance to update it before i posted.

 

do you have any pics of that intercooler installed? were you able to keep the bumper support? thanks

 

the 28" wide core from turbonetics is more install friendly as its the same height as stock just 8" wider.

same price as that icevex one

 

compression test was done... 14 bar on all.

no idea how good/bad is this.

comments please..

thanks!

 

203 psi compression?

seems extremely high. but could be normal if you are running hi compression pistons

 

i'm on a stock block...

how's that gonna affect my FI setup?

what's next?

 

and how true is this statement:

"
A high compression ratio is desirable because it allows an engine to extract more mechanical energy from a given mass of air-fuel mixture due to its higher thermal efficiency. High ratios place the available oxygen and fuel molecules into a reduced space along with the adiabatic heat of compression - causing better mixing and evaporation of the fuel droplets. Thus they allow increased power at the moment of ignition and the extraction of more useful work from that power by expanding the hot gas to a greater degree."

"the dynamic compression ratio is 7.5:1, a useful value for cylinder pressure would be (7.5)^1.3 × atmospheric pressure, or 13.7 bar. (× 14.7 psi at sea level = 201.8 psi. The pressure shown on a gauge would be the absolute pressure less atmospheric pressure, or 187.1 psi.)"

#Source#

and i'm on sea level...

 

I just now saw this post. I've been off the FI forums for awhile now and haven't even been looking at them. I have a GTM shortblock and it seems to have been running fine, but I just haven't been driving my Z much at all for the past couple years because I need to pass emissions. I still haven't even been tuned since the new engine so whenever I drive my Z, I pretty much go easy on it.

I have a situation with some ECU codes that I need to resolve. I have a couple options on how to solve it, but both methods are going to cost money that I just don't have available to throw around right now. I'm trying to pay off debt and with the economy, recently my job is now in jeopardy with the state pulling funding via a new bill that recently passed. I do have back up plans in place though so I'll be fine.


My Z seriously needs new tires. It's seriously dangerous right now with old hardened semi-race compound tires. I foresee needing about $3000 to pay for tires, a new tune, misc work and parts, late emissions fees, registration renewal, etc. On top of that, compared to my other cars, the Z eats gas and has a much higher maintenance cost. The car otherwise drives great.

It also didn't help that I was recently in a minor accident with the Z when I was driving it on a 3-day temp license pass. The car is fine now and was all cosmetic damage, but still cost me a $1000 deductible and a $200 ticket. And then recently my wife had a hefty dentist bill we had to pay. Honestly, I shouldn't have even bought the new engine as early as I did, but it was well before the economy stuff hit and I thought it'd be a quick simple fix ...which it never is


So my priorities lately really haven't been on the Z. Staying off the FI forums helps keep it out of mind since it is a bit depressing having a nice sports car that I can't really drive until other things get taken care of. Once things turn around, I plan to immediately get it all taken care of and be more active on the forums again.

 

Good luck with that Sentry, hope you're z's back on the road fulltime soon...

I'm also curious to see how it goes with emissions...I also have a built engine being built and I wonder about that...

 

Vortech Tuner Kit, 03-06 350Z/G35 w/ V1 SQ T-Trim (no Charge Cooler), Polished
After looking recently in this tread that I could actually order a T-Trim tuner kit, finally decided on which FI direction to take and ordered a polished T-trim from Assaultech with and additional 3.33 pulley ( T-Trim comes 3.12 standard I understand).

I have stock internals and was planning as most here on a V2 ,V3 SC with a 3.12pulley to get 400whp with other supporting mods, but the T-Trim really make me take the decision as I’ll have room to grow when Boom! Time comes.

My question is, since the T-Trim is stronger and would produce more boost per rpm that the SC, which pulley would reach my goal 3.33 or 3.12? Do not want to push it to hard for now.

Is there any chart on Boost vs. RPM on same pulley for a SC vs. T-Trim?


Tried searching but found no results.

 

just run the 3.12. you wont be making rod breaking torque on a 3.12

 

Wow...can't believe I've been that busy I forgot about this thread! That and slowly saving more money for my setup I was however able to acquire Car vs. Driver's UTEC...lol!

Binder - My apologies I owe you a PM. You were going to explain the wideband and a/f gauges you use for your setup.

Also, regarding the injectors. I was wondering how does an engine using DW 600cc injectors sound at startup? This is comparing apples to oranges but a buddy of mine has a Twin Turbo G35 with 600 cc's and when he starts up his car it sounds like it's struggling to turnover. Is this the case with the Vortech? I'm hoping to keep the start somewhat stock-ISH...Is that even possible?

My goals and setup is listed below:

Power Goal - 350-400hp max! (It's my Daily Driver and just want something fun and YES...the BPV sound....)
04 G35 coupe - Stock Block 64k + miles
V3 Tuner Kit w/3.12 pulley possibly 2.87 - still saving
UTEC - acquired
440cc injectors
Walbro 255 - acquired
1/2 MD spacer - installed
HKS Hi-Power True Dual - installed
Defi Gauges Boost - acquired

Thanks again Sentry for starting this thread! And to Binder and the many who contributed to the wealth of information!

 

Your welcome, Pm me or email me. Give me a day or so to respond because medical school is beating on me and i'm spending quite a bit of time in the lab.

dw 600cc's sound the same on startup if tuned correctly. It won't make the car slow to turn over. Overtight belts or a dying battery are probably the cause. I would same more than likely a battery that needs to be replaced.

if tuned improperly the 600's will idle rough once it's started, but it really won't make the car sound like it's hard to turn over. I think by that you mean like it's chugging and not turning over really well.

 

Is your friend's car a lower compression built block or stock? Sometimes lower compression built motors take a few more turns to start up. My 600cc D-Works sound stock when I start up. If I were you I would go with 600s over the 440s you are planning on using.

 

Will the T-Trim blower work with the standard Vortech Intercooler that is supplied in all the kits or does it really need a bigger custom Intercooler?

HP target is 350-400 RWHP.

 

^just like they suggested to me earlier, you would need a bigger intercooler even tho the one the comes with the kit should be fine.

 

The supplied intercooler provides enough flow for that power. But once you start getting over about 450 you will need a high capacity IC.

 

thnx for your clear answer!