Cool thanks for the help.
I did the relearn / program awhile ago, the only codes are random missfires (on occasion)
The car got better after some drive time. I adjusted the 0% column because the orig program was for an auto trans and mine is a 6mt.

 

Hey fellas,

Just thought i'd add this link into the never-ending STS Turbo thread....

http://www.pasmag.com/index.php?opti...930&Itemid=122

We ran the article in a recent Fall issue of PAS Magazine (www.pasmag.com), and have been impressed with it so far....as it's well past break in and been trouble-free. Being based in Canada (we're a Canadian and US Magazine) means most of our PAS Project Cars are in winter hibernation mode now, however it give us a few months to think of how to touture them on the track and on the dyno in Spring... enjoy. And feel free to hit me up with any feedback or mods / products you'd like to see tested, reviewed or featured on PAS Project 350Z at mark@pasmag.com

 

I bypassed the dorky "U" pipe to the air filter off the turbo and have the filter attached directly to the turbo....less to come loose and less obstruction of air flow IMO. Just food for thought. -Jim

 

How long has it been since you installed it that way?
No rubbing or other problems?
Any pictures?

 

/\ I think he had that from the beginning... At least that is waht I saw on his pix..

 

Same here ... I also ported the inside of the turbo mount Flange

 

Pics?

 

Hope this works for pics

 

that look better than having a stupid bend on the charge pipe just to clear the filter.

 

Yeah, that charge pipe hangs lower than anything else under there, which is pretty scary.



Boozt - Is that a custom mid-pipe? I'm looking for a real solid one with a solid flange, as the stock flange bends bolting it up to the STS pipe. This is the only aftermarket one I could find that would bolt up just like stock - http://www.zerotek.net/zt35hi2mi.html.

 

/\ it look low but I never hit that pipe coz it is between the wheels my front bumper is close to the ground than that pipe.

 

Yeah, same here. I went blasting through some hilly roads where the car would get really compressed, and I didn't scrape. I have yet to scrape the pipe on anything. It just looks scary when i stand behind the car and the thing is only a few inches off the ground.

 

Yes, APR (local speed shop) custom welded the piping for a cleaner fit. I track the car alot so I didn't want anything hanging low or flimsy.

 

Damn, you should have had them weld up a couple

 

is everyone running a intake filter cover with a hole drilled in the bottom for drainage now?

 

I'm running the stainless shroud with the hole in the bottom along with the pre-filter "sock" that they provide.

 

I've been considering this setup for my G. Here are my plans ... bigger inectors (probably 600cc or bigger), the larger FMIC (waiting to see what people say of the new design), heat wrap all my exhaust piping, definately the BB turbo upgrade, etc ... I have Osiris Uprev ... not sure if that is enough to handle all the tuning. I hear it is if they do a custom dyno tune so I may use the Utec to get me to a dyno then let them do their magic.

I'm interested in the mods people have made to their PVC system. I was originally going to install and spacer, catch can, and an oil cooler (for safety reasons)

I was also interested in the exhaust piping configuration people are using. I currently have Berk HFCs and FI Intimidator exhaust. Was considering getting the MD XYZ Y-pipe and maybe a new midpipe. I know people are leary of the HFCs, but I need them for emissions. I also noticed the filter relocation Boostz tried ... may look into that as well.

Basically I was originally looking at a Vortech, but didn't like the downside to superchargers. This system seems great for those DIYs like myself. Lots of potential. Any tips would be welcome.

 

Hopefully goosegoose can chime in on the BB turbo upgrade. He's been swapping out quite a few things but I haven't seen an update lately.

The STS PCV system is kind of lame. I don't think they put much thought into it, and just added the PCV solenoid in order to get it CARB approved or something. My setup is different though, because instead of having the oil return pumping into one of the crankcase crossover tubes, I have it going to a fitting tapped into the upper pan (had a Vortech before). But I just ditched the PCV solenoid and the vacuum hoses running from the intake charge pipe to one of the crossover tubes. The only thing different from stock (OEM) about my system is a breather on the driver's side port, and a check valve between the plenum and the PCV valve (actually, a catch can is in there as well).

Most people running turbo kits are able to provide a little bit of vacuum to the crankcase under boost by running a hose from the turbo intake to the crankcase. However, with the turbo being all of the way in the back, it would be pointless to run a hose back there.

The main point is that under boost, nothing is providing vacuum to the crankcase. Without introducing a vacuum pump, the best option is to try to allow the crankcase to breath. There are other threads on this in the F/I section, and it involves drilling out the driver's side breather port (which I haven't done yet).

Those all sound good. I haven't installed a oil cooler yet, as my temps aren't too extreme. I'm somewhat afraid to introduce even more resistance into the oil system, but it works for others.

Most people here simply have test pipes (or HFCs, or stock cats), stock y-pipe, stock mid-pipe. One guy has the Nismo mid-pipe, but needed to modify it to get it to bolt up to the STS system. I'm currently trying to find an aftermarket mid-pipe that will bolt up like stock, and could only find one that is $300 and made in China. I think I'm going to stick with the stock mid-pipe and have a stronger flange welded up since the stock one is very weak and causes a leak for me.

Are your Berk HFC's metallic or ceramic? I think ceramics blow out easier, but I would try to stick with the ones that are least likely to blow out.

One option for you would be to get the XYZ y-pipe with the catalytic converter, and then go with test pipes. Might be less prone to blow out not being so close to the engine (less heat). However, you probably still need cats to pass a visual inspection (if they do that).

I went from a Vortech to the STS, and I'm very happy with my choice. The Vortech was fun, but for me even the un-tuned, low-boost STS has been more fun for me. It definitely turns heads, has more torque (much more power cruising on the freeway - no need to downshift and rev it up), and can be tame if you want it to be (no constant blower noise). Also, I installed everything myself (with both kits), and have to say the STS was a little easier.

 

Not sure about the problem with the STS PCV system but I believe majority here has the stock setup and not much problem. My car feel stock except when I hit boost and been running the same setup for over 1 1/2 years now..

 

Sorry, I didn't mean to say it was bad - it just seems unnecessary. The only problem that it might present is that the PCV solenoid won't close until it sees 1 psi of boost (at the in-line switch). If rolling into boost slightly, you could possibly be pressurizing the crankcase.

But like you said, multiple people have been running it that way for a long time, so it should be no issue.