5AT (automatic transmission) Owners With Forced Induction Please Read
04-18-2009, 11:25 AM
#161
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Bazooka....I seriously doubt the OEM tranny can go any further than where I went(505). I wouldn't try it (550).
Raj...my tranny dipstick looks nothing like the one you show in the pdf file. Interesting......I wonder if the Z uses a different one than the G
Raj...my tranny dipstick looks nothing like the one you show in the pdf file. Interesting......I wonder if the Z uses a different one than the G
04-18-2009, 11:55 AM
#162
Coach, interesting that your dipstick is different. I guess you'd have to go off the procedure in your car's specific FSM.
04-18-2009, 12:03 PM
#163
Mine is not all that slow, it is just inconsistent and it will be at least .04sec faster if it shifts the way it did before the vortech.
'
There are a lot of people that don't think raising the rev limit is a good idea.
I have a 3.55 ear end, so I would still have to shift short.
And I would still have a tranny that didn't shift fast enough.
'
There are a lot of people that don't think raising the rev limit is a good idea.
I have a 3.55 ear end, so I would still have to shift short.
And I would still have a tranny that didn't shift fast enough.
04-18-2009, 12:12 PM
#164
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tiguy....the 3.3 is what the 5ATs come with. Fowlman has the 5AT so if he wanted to swap he would have to go with the 3.5 from the 6MT. It looks like in Fowlmans post that you quoted, he already switched to the 3.5
04-18-2009, 11:51 PM
#167
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drained some fluid out to get in between the checkered markings when warmed up
(15min of idle.revving, normal coolant operating temp)
Did not affect the issue.
One thing I have noticed, no matter how hot the car is, if i simply turn it off, then turn it back on, the transmission works perfect. hard shifts, absolutely no slipping, but the problem returns within about 1-2 minutes.
I was going to pull the battery off and let it reset overnight, but its already too late, and I'm tired. I'll do the reset procedure tomorrow during the day.
PS i followed that procedure, the one I got from the FSM was a little less detailed. I warmed up the engine, shifted through each gear(position), checked the position while the car was running, and flipped the dipstick backwards. I dont think I made a mistake with the level readings.
From my limit knowledge of automatic transmissions, its sounds like I have blown a seal. It has a really hard time shifting between each gear once its warmed up, and then eventually starts popping out of the gears if i rev to high. (ie 3rd at 3000 rpm).
The only way I was able to get it to behave normal was to keep the rpms under 2000 at all times.
(15min of idle.revving, normal coolant operating temp)
Did not affect the issue.
One thing I have noticed, no matter how hot the car is, if i simply turn it off, then turn it back on, the transmission works perfect. hard shifts, absolutely no slipping, but the problem returns within about 1-2 minutes.
I was going to pull the battery off and let it reset overnight, but its already too late, and I'm tired. I'll do the reset procedure tomorrow during the day.
PS i followed that procedure, the one I got from the FSM was a little less detailed. I warmed up the engine, shifted through each gear(position), checked the position while the car was running, and flipped the dipstick backwards. I dont think I made a mistake with the level readings.
From my limit knowledge of automatic transmissions, its sounds like I have blown a seal. It has a really hard time shifting between each gear once its warmed up, and then eventually starts popping out of the gears if i rev to high. (ie 3rd at 3000 rpm).
The only way I was able to get it to behave normal was to keep the rpms under 2000 at all times.
04-19-2009, 12:05 PM
#169
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if you feel that the tranny gets hot from abusing the car, then order the tranny cooler 
im ordering the tranny cooler in a few weeks, just to make sure the tranny is getting cooler oil
im ordering the tranny cooler in a few weeks, just to make sure the tranny is getting cooler oil
04-19-2009, 12:34 PM
#170
drained some fluid out to get in between the checkered markings when warmed up
(15min of idle.revving, normal coolant operating temp)
Did not affect the issue.
One thing I have noticed, no matter how hot the car is, if i simply turn it off, then turn it back on, the transmission works perfect. hard shifts, absolutely no slipping, but the problem returns within about 1-2 minutes.
I was going to pull the battery off and let it reset overnight, but its already too late, and I'm tired. I'll do the reset procedure tomorrow during the day.
PS i followed that procedure, the one I got from the FSM was a little less detailed. I warmed up the engine, shifted through each gear(position), checked the position while the car was running, and flipped the dipstick backwards. I dont think I made a mistake with the level readings.
From my limit knowledge of automatic transmissions, its sounds like I have blown a seal. It has a really hard time shifting between each gear once its warmed up, and then eventually starts popping out of the gears if i rev to high. (ie 3rd at 3000 rpm).
The only way I was able to get it to behave normal was to keep the rpms under 2000 at all times.
(15min of idle.revving, normal coolant operating temp)
Did not affect the issue.
One thing I have noticed, no matter how hot the car is, if i simply turn it off, then turn it back on, the transmission works perfect. hard shifts, absolutely no slipping, but the problem returns within about 1-2 minutes.
I was going to pull the battery off and let it reset overnight, but its already too late, and I'm tired. I'll do the reset procedure tomorrow during the day.
PS i followed that procedure, the one I got from the FSM was a little less detailed. I warmed up the engine, shifted through each gear(position), checked the position while the car was running, and flipped the dipstick backwards. I dont think I made a mistake with the level readings.
From my limit knowledge of automatic transmissions, its sounds like I have blown a seal. It has a really hard time shifting between each gear once its warmed up, and then eventually starts popping out of the gears if i rev to high. (ie 3rd at 3000 rpm).
The only way I was able to get it to behave normal was to keep the rpms under 2000 at all times.
04-19-2009, 01:12 PM
#171
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My transmission did the exact same thing...right before the big bang! I don't know exactly what caused the delays, but nobody could figure out a tuning or other electrical cause. We narrowed it down to a mechanical issue. Then the transmission went out completely and we sent it out to be fixed. Upon tear down, we discovered that the transmission was stock!!! It was supposed to be a full race 5AT from SGP, but apparently, they like to NOT do the work they are paid to do. Anyway, the point is that it may be related to the pump or a seal, since both of those went out on mine and it did the same thing.
Maybe its a pump going out?
04-19-2009, 01:44 PM
#173
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Nothix...how long were you driving around after the fluid change(days,weeks,months)?
I read that if you overfill the tranny fluid, you can blow a seal. I just don't know if blowing a seal causes the issues you are having.
I read that if you overfill the tranny fluid, you can blow a seal. I just don't know if blowing a seal causes the issues you are having.
04-19-2009, 07:50 PM
#177
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according to the manual, with my symptoms, one of the following problems:
-vehicle speed sensor
-ATF pressure switch
-Torque converter
-oil pump assy
-gear system
-vehicle speed sensor
-ATF pressure switch
-Torque converter
-oil pump assy
-gear system
04-19-2009, 10:13 PM
#178
Yes, it seemed to shift more firmly if I let the ECU reset. This led me to believe that it may be some sort of tuning issue, but ultimately, I don't believe it was even related. I tried adding an HKS Fuel Cut Defensor, but I don't think it did anything for that issue.
04-20-2009, 06:49 PM
#180
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alright tranny is in the shop
they drained the oil and removed the pan.
Burnt oil, gotta open up the tranny.
Owner suggests I build it since I'm already paying for labor to fix the issue.
What mods should I do?
Definitely going to order the Transgo VB.
Should I get anything else from the GTM site?
GTM DIRECT CLUTCH DRUM PISTON - $316.35 (is this an oem replacement?)
GTM HD BILLET SERVO PISTON ASSMEBLY - $187.00
GTM HIGH-LOW REVERSE DRUM PISTON - $233.00
GTM RE55R05A FORWARD CLUTCH POWER PACK - $169.98
GTM RE55R05A HIGH-LOW REVERSE CLUTCH POWER PACK - $192.71
GTM RE55R05A INPUT CLUTCH POWER PACK - $205.11
GTM SURFACE TREATED DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE - $95.00
GTM SURFACE TREATED HIGH-LOW REVERSE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE - $80.00
RE5R05A BAND ASSEMBLY - $43.11
GTM TORQUE CONVERTER UPGRADE - $462.00
RE5R05A COMPLETE OVERHALL KIT - $395.11 (not sure if shop can get the equvalent elsewhere)
RE5R05A FILTER ASSEMBLY - $33.29 (same as above)
RE5RO5A TRANSMISSION PAN GASKET - $14.35 (is this already included in the rebuild kit?)
GTM RE55R05A LOW COAST CLUTCH POWER PACK - $162.00
GTM RE55R05A REVERSE CLUTCH POWER PACK - $175.11
GTM RE5R05A DIRECT CLUTCH POWER PACK - $224.11
they drained the oil and removed the pan.
Burnt oil, gotta open up the tranny.
Owner suggests I build it since I'm already paying for labor to fix the issue.
What mods should I do?
Definitely going to order the Transgo VB.
Should I get anything else from the GTM site?
GTM DIRECT CLUTCH DRUM PISTON - $316.35 (is this an oem replacement?)
GTM HD BILLET SERVO PISTON ASSMEBLY - $187.00
GTM HIGH-LOW REVERSE DRUM PISTON - $233.00
GTM RE55R05A FORWARD CLUTCH POWER PACK - $169.98
GTM RE55R05A HIGH-LOW REVERSE CLUTCH POWER PACK - $192.71
GTM RE55R05A INPUT CLUTCH POWER PACK - $205.11
GTM SURFACE TREATED DIRECT CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE - $95.00
GTM SURFACE TREATED HIGH-LOW REVERSE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE - $80.00
RE5R05A BAND ASSEMBLY - $43.11
GTM TORQUE CONVERTER UPGRADE - $462.00
RE5R05A COMPLETE OVERHALL KIT - $395.11 (not sure if shop can get the equvalent elsewhere)
RE5R05A FILTER ASSEMBLY - $33.29 (same as above)
RE5RO5A TRANSMISSION PAN GASKET - $14.35 (is this already included in the rebuild kit?)
GTM RE55R05A LOW COAST CLUTCH POWER PACK - $162.00
GTM RE55R05A REVERSE CLUTCH POWER PACK - $175.11
GTM RE5R05A DIRECT CLUTCH POWER PACK - $224.11
Last edited by nothix; 04-20-2009 at 06:58 PM.