Jeff92se

iTrader: (4)

It's not just the delay in shifting that makes it run into the rev limiter, it's the slip that occurs that causes unnecessary wear on the clutches. Boost only worsens it.

fowlman01

iTrader: (1)

If you raise the rev limiter you still have a car that takes forever to shift. My tranny shifted faster than you could with a 6MT before the s/c..while still at WOT.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

With a proper VB, shifts are hard and fast. There is no delay under load. The shift just happens. It's not like it starts the shift, slips, then engages a second later... If that's what's happening for you, then something is not working right.

fowlman01

iTrader: (1)

I'm changing VB's apparently the Stillin is a piece of crap.

maXmood

iTrader: (16)

keep us updated..

fowlman01

iTrader: (1)

I will. I don't know exactly when I will be able to make the change but the sooner the better.

Zbee

Guys, I have a 2003 350z Touring 5AT with a Procharger using a 9 lbs. pulley. I got the Valve Body Upgrade from AAM. My car shifts hard and fast. The only issue I noticed is that it takes a few minutes for the tranny to warm up. Before the tranny is warm, shifts can be a little slow. Once warm, the wheels chirp through 3rd. Real fun car to drive!

AAM Plenum Spacer
Procharger w/ 9 lbs. pulley
UTEC
2.5" AAM True Dual Exhaust
Walbro Fuel Pump
AAM Fuel Return System Basic
AAM Procharger Flex Brace
440cc injectors
Valve Body Upgrade

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

Thats pretty much the norm for our trans.And yes Fowlman the stillen is a piece of crap.

Murfdizzle21

iTrader: (6)

so whats the best vb? and even if ur not fi u guys suggest this?

BaZooKa

iTrader: (7)

GTM VB is best on the market, i suggest it for FI and NA ,,

BTW i also noticed that if the gear is cold shifting wont be that good ..

shifting is great in Manual mode,, down shifts are a bit harder, its a must for 5AT's .. here is my thread:


https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...b-upgrade.html


what i know from transmission failure is that torque will kill it,, and what will get effected are the clutch packs, so i have the VB upgrade and im thinking to upgrade my clutch packs so that my tranny will hold up stronger incase i wanted more boost, so what do you guys think about those upgraded clutch packs ?

Link: http://www.gtmotorsports.com/home.php?cat=262

CoachK your tranny began slipping at 500whp nearly, So do you think that those clutch packs will hold maybe 550 ?

j.arnaldo

...at 60, I've left my Z bone stock. Things could get complicated and, at my age...I don't think so!
____________________________________________________________ _______________________
'O4 Touring Coupe: NO feathering! NO oil-consumption issues! F-l-a-w-l-e-s-s AT!!!

nothix

iTrader: (27)

anyone have any clues to what my problem could be?

year: 2003
tranny: AT stock
FI: Vortech 3.12 pulley
power: 373/322

Alright, so i hopped in the z this moring after its been parked all week (beater ftw) and took off to work.
Ran fine at first, but felt like it was losing power.
The further i went the worse it got.
Soon enough, about a mile down the road, it would just constantly slip, limiting me to about 20mph, no matter how high I revved or what gear i tried to put it in in the manumatic mode

I checked the fluid level and it seems to but much higher then it should be.
On the dip stick, its way past the max line and up to the bending point on the stick.

It seems to be behaving the same way consistently.
The transmissions starts to buck and slip if i get on it at all.
I have to keep it under 2000 rpms, and the tranny shifts and catches normally.
Seems to have problems around 50mph even when taking it easy, I assume this is the same rpm issue as when accelerating.

I know its really hard to diagnose this issue online, but is it possible that having a atf overfilled could be causing any of these issues? The fluid was changed about a month and a half ago by a local dealership.

tiguy99

iTrader: (3)

nothix, how many miles did you drive w/o the vb, TC and cooler upgrades?

Also, how hard did you drive your car on a regular basis? I'm wondering if all these upgrades are necessary for a 5AT in the mid 300s hp/tq range especially if the car's driven lightly with the occasional spirited run here and there

As for your issue, I'm sure they're going to have to get your trans apart to have a look to see what's going on in there. Its hard for us to tell but it sounds like its probably on its way out

coachk

iTrader: (21)

You should definitely drain out the excess fluid...it can cause the tranny to slip. What color is the fluid on the dipstick. Since they overfilled it, I wonder if they never drained the old fluid and just added new fluid on top of the old....

nothix

iTrader: (27)

about 2500 miles, I only drive it on the weekend, so most of the driving it sees is aggressive.

Fluid doesn't looks discolored, but I'm definitely gonna try to drain some and get it to the high range. Should I drain it while its running? Like the FSM says to do when replacing the fluid?
It also doesnt smell burnt, or like toast, or popcorn.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Whoa, hold on. The 5AT fluid level on the dipstick is basically a linear function of temperature. As the temp rises, the fluid level will rise. You must follow the FSM procedure. If you cannot monitor trans temps, let the car cool off, then let it warm up for 15 mins idling. Depress the brake and shift through to D and then put it back in park. While the car is running, go check the fluid level. Remember you are supposed to reverse (rotate 180 degrees) the direction of the dipstick when checking fluid levels (not sure this matters that much, but thats what the FSM says to do).

At this point you should be in the "cold range" of the dipstick, between the notches I think, not in the checkered part. As the car continues to run, the temp will move on up to the "hot range". If you run the car hard and the temp climbs well beyond 200, then it SHOULD read beyond the "hot range".

Now in regards to your problem, it sounds like it could be limp mode? Any CEL lights?

coachk

iTrader: (21)

Raj....it shouldn't be above the top mark though when checking it with the motor hot, is that correct?

It should be between the 2 notches marked "hot" when checking it when the motor is hot, but not past that top notch.

coachk

iTrader: (21)

SAM is that correct?

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Hang on let me find the FSM pic. It shows that it goes beyond the top mark as temperature increases.

EDIT: ok see attachment. Notice the dipstick diagram, the cold range, the hot range, then check the graph on the next page that demonstrates that the level extends beyond the hot range as temps crest around 200.

BaZooKa

iTrader: (7)

Raj and Coach what do u think ?