Got my new (significantly cheaper than my dealer) motor. Removed the old one and installed the new one. I was looking in the inner "well" of the door and found this contraption sitting down there. I don't see it in any of your pictures and it doesn't appear to have anything to do with the window mechanism. I didn't want to put the metal panel back on until I found out what this was.

I copied one of your pix to use to indicate where I found this thing. It was right where I put the yellow X in your picture. Just laying there not connected to anything.

 

Bump....

 

Looks like the door limiter came off. Don't know what it's called. Go look at your other door. There should be a top hinge and bottom hinge up front. You are sitting in the car and opening the door all the way and look towards the front of the door. In the middle there, there is a black metal slide that stops the door from opening too far and ripping the hinges right off. That looks like what fell off your door! Are there any bolts on that thing where you could get lucky and just put it back in? Not by my car right now...

 

I'm on my 2nd motor this year already. GOt mine from autozone in May. Failed in Sept. Labor Day weekend. Yay! Fun!

Autozone can't even order them right now. Got a full cash refund on mine then was lucky to find one from ORiley a little cheaper.
Found out that A1 Cardone is just the remanufacturer. They are proabably all original Nissan motors that keep getting rebuilt. According to NAPA that is. Napa could get me one next day out of Houston for a little more than Autozone.

The reset procedure did not work this time for me. By the '05 service manual it just says part of the procedure that was posted by VO. Like raise window, push and hold reset, lower window. Usually gets you the problem where up and down works without grinding past the limit, but auto up goes all the way up then 1/2 way back down. Be sure to check that there could be more than one way if you are having any trouble. I've seen many people in other threads describe the half way back down problem. My procedure did not say anything about making sure the door was closed, etc. Needless to say it frustrated me for about 30minutes until I found this and this one worked on the first try

So this time it failed, for a few days the up direction seemed pretty slow sometimes before it started completely failing then you can bang on it to get it to work again. Maybe this is normal for it to run very slow when it is failing. What I'm worried about now is how perfect everything needs to be adjusted. Those two nuts at the bottom of the regulator have a screw head in them to adjust the regulator track in and out at the bottom and you have enough room to rotate the bottom a degree or two. How should all of this be adjusted anyway if anything were to be off? I want to make sure there is nothing mechanically wrong on this install that would cause the motor to go out.

 

Anyone have any suggestions/advice in addition to this write up for doing a DRIVERS SIDE door on an 07 Roadster?????

I wouldn't think it is THAT different, but the two doors aren't exactly the same.

 

Well, if it's anything like an '05 coupe the driver's will be 1 step easier since you don't have that big grab handle. That eliminates trying to gently pry off the cover and get way back in the door to remove that screw. SHOULD be like the steps here or easier if anything. Didn't the major interior changes wait until the 370z??

 

Motor Caravan Insurance

 

Just replaced drivers side today using this guide, took about 90 minutes and that was getting the tools I needed as I needed them from the house so it's not difficult at all really.
I do have a question, I went to do the reset procedure and found out when I removed the little black circles of plastic that cover the holes up in the inner door panel, the reset cover/button rubber thing was gone. I didn't even think to look at it before hand, luckily the window works just fine without it. The question is, will this hurt it by letting moisture get into it? I'm not really sure what the button was supposed to do as there's nothing behind it but some white plastic, no contact or anything. Should I pop the door panel back off and put some silicone on this?

 

I just replaced my driver side window motor using your guide. thanks alot I appreciate it. I saved about $200!

 

I think my driver motor just took a dump. It's an 03 with only 10K miles but window will not work at all. This will help immensly thank you.

 

Just want to let everyone know that if you buy from www.advanceautoparts.com before November 24th you can get 20% off of the set or 10% off of one of these motors. There's also free shipping. So if you buy them both and send back (or drop off) your old motors to get your core fee refunded you will only pay $215.18 for the pair. Keep in mind at these auto parts stores you are getting refurbished motors, but that's still two motors for the price of a new one from www.courtesyparts.com

Applied Promotion: N512
5% off $25, 10% off $75, 20% off $150

BTW, I don't work for these places. I was in the market for new motors and came across this promotion.

 

thought I would post this here in case anyone has the same problem in the future.

First thing that happened was my driver's side window motor seemed to be going out. It would roll up or down very slowly. So I used the method of banging the crap out of the door or slamming the door when it got stuck to get it back up. After a while any time I would turn the ignition off and open the door, my passenger window would roll down by itself.

I tried the reset procedure on the passenger window many times, and it didnt help. So I unplugged it so it would stay up until I figured out what was going on.

I replaced the driver's side window motor, and now both windows worked wonderfully with the car on, but both would roll down as soon as the ignition was off and a door was opened.

Finally, FINALLY, today after months of frustration I figured it out. There is a feature on our cars that when you put the physical key in on the drive side and hold it for a few seconds, the windows roll down automatically. My banging/slamming the door when my original motor was half dead had made the little electronic piece that sits on the lock come loose, and therefore it was always sending a roll down signal when it could to both windows. I took the handle off and put the piece back on and all is finally well with my windows.

 

Lifetime warranty when you buy the refurbs...so when it goes out, just take it back and get another.

 

I read the first post and installed my new window motor... Passenger window.

I didn't do the reset procedure. When I open the drivers side door, the window goes down about 1/8th of an inch (or how ever much regularly goes down). But when I open the passenger side door, the window opens about half an inch (which is more than regular).

Both sides seem to be closed and sealed correctly when the doors are closed, but I'm wondering why one window opens more than the other when the doors are opened.

Is something wrong or should I just leave it?

 

Didn't you answer your own question?

I've replaced one and got lucky that everything magically synchronized together but the reason your window is not at the right height is that you didn't do the reset!
Depending what year service manual you are looking at there are some slight variations in the step by step procedure. Follow the one that is posted in this thread and I'll bet you will be OK.
Does this mean you didn't bother to read the other helpful stuff in this thread?

Good luck with the reset if you choose. Any other "advice" you get probably won't be very nice since everything you need is in this thread already. If you have problems though you are not following the directions (you must do exactly what it says - if you are confused keep trying) or you need one of the other procedures I've seen. I'll try and help if you can't get it.

Although, I've got to ask once you close the door does it go up all the way? I'd have to admit if it was me I would leave it if the window ends up all the way up. Also, open the door and grab the window and gently pull it up and down. There usually is about 1/4" of play anyway. Is that what you are seeing?

 

in response to bomb0314, ive changed both window motors with this diy and did the reset procedure on both and they still dont move up and down the same amount. my driver side barely moves and the pass side moves about 3/4 of an inch. but they both work and roll down at the exact same speed so i guess dont worry about it til they stop working at all?

 

thanks for the help. Yes I only really read the first few pages. (didn't read the whole 17 pages). It rained the past few days and water does not leak, it seems to be fine.
I didnt do the reset because in the OP it said that when you auto up and the window rolls back down half way, thats when the reset needs to be done. I didnt have this problem... I think I am in the clear!

yes same thing you are having... drivers window barely moves and pass moves a good amount... but they seem to seal correctly and doesn't seem like an issue.

Only thing now is to wait and hope they don't fail again.

Thanks!!!

 

Sounds like you got it good enough. The reset procedure is to reset/train where the window limits are whether it is a little off or off by a lot. If you install a motor and it is pretty far off then you roll it up with auto it is trying to go way past the top. It reverses because it all it knows it that it thinks it has not travelled far enough to be at the top and is drawing so much current that it thinks it needs to activate the safety feature and reverse the motor to release an object that is getting crushed in the window like an arm or hand.

 

^^^ ohhh ok I understand. Thanks! seems like I'm ok for now.

 

THANKS FOR POSTING THIS
now is working perfect