i know this probably isnt the place to do this but if any one is selling 10mm or 15mm spacers lmk, im in the market for some right now, thanks guys

 

Great thread, Question do you guys know if the Nissan OEM Catalog Chrome 5 spoke wheels have the space between the lugs? I want to get 20mm F/25mm R spacers for these wheels that came with the car,but have never taken them off to actually see the hub. Anyone do spacers with these yet? any pics? What offset and width are these wheels anyway? Thanks in advance.

 

They are the same offset as all the other OEM wheels of that size......ie 18x8 with +33Front or +30rear, cant exactly remember the stock offset, but YES they do have the gaps in them and you will be just fine as some of the other examples with 20mmFront and 25mmRear spacers shown with oem wheels.

-J

 

^Thanks Jason, now I just have to get the spacers.haha (which brand???/ebay sounds ok for $60) I will post pics when I get it done, for others with same wheels.

 

I've read that you need at least 25mm spacers to completely cover the oem studs but also read somewhere that 20mm will also works....is that a fact?.....I need to know before I purchase some.....thanks in advance

 

I think you need to re-read post 5, 6 and especially post #7.

-J

 

I have questions. I'm in need for 5 to 10mm spacer to clear BBK in the front wheels. I understand that using 5mm spacer is safe without longer bolts/studs.

But to be safe side of clearing the brakes, I may need more than 5mm. If I do run 10mm spacers, I would like them to be hub centric, have hub centric ring for the wheels to be mount on correctly, and have pre-mounted studs.
Something like Ichiba V2. But I have not seen 10mm spacer with above requirements and Ischiba V2 starts at 15mm. Too big for my use.

So, my question is, "Is 10mm spacer too narrow to be made with hub centeri ring?"

For example, why does Kics-Project don't offer hubcenteric rings for 10mm? Only offer for 15mm or above.

Why?

 

See if you can verify if 5mm is all you need or not.........if 5mm does the trick then your done.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3118

Okay, here is the answer.

10mm "IS" too narrow/thin, its just that the hub of the Z ALREADY has a lip on it. that lip is the 66.1mm that is where you mount the spacer onto the Z hub.
SEE HERE - This is the front hub of a Z, notice the hub ring in purple that is mounted onto the existing Z hub "LIP":


That lip (though i haven't measured it's protrusion) is what keeps a thin 10mm spacer from allowing a "slip on" hub centric ring.

This is the slip on style - obviously wont work!

You need this type (permanent "wheel" centric ring) - in a 10mm thick spacer:


Now, any spacer you find thats meant for the Z will have the 66.1 center hole, SO you just need the permanent "wheel" centric ring to be the 73mm or WHATEVER your wheel bore is?

What is your wheel bore????
To know what ring size you need to mount the wheel to the spacer!


and,
if you find 66.1mm hole/10mm thick spacers with the permanent lip of 73mm, but find that your wheels are 88mm or something else, then you need to get slip on "rings" for your spacer like the purple ring shown on the first pic.
-J

 

Or just get a 15mm spacer.

 

Thank you Jason-Z. You have lots of knowledge in this catagory. You have anwered my confusion very clearly. Awesome. Now, I know why I can't find Ichiba V2 for my needs.

I am planing to get Akebono BBK. The Akebono template is contacting with part of the spokes.

My aftermarket wheel's bore size is 350z specific. 66.1mm. I don't want to run 15mm spacer because my wheel is already 22mm offset. I don't want too much flush since I'm planning to participate some HPDE. Thank for the link for 5mm spacer link. I'm hoping 5mm will be enough. I will measure to be sure.

In case I do need 10mm spacer with permanent hub centric rings and pre-mounted studs, do you have link for above picture? I'm guessing that could be H&R's? I will search as well.

Thank again for your help. Your knowledge is well appreciated.

 

I'll post here before starting a new thread:

I have Volk CE28n wheels with +22 offset all around and I want to add 10mm spacers to achieve +12 offset. I bought a set of KICS Project 10mm spacers w/ built-in studs and tried to install them. The OEM studs protrude through the spacer because it is only 10mm thick. The machined-out "pockets" in the back of the wheel are not deep enough to accommodate the protruding portion of the OEM studs so the wheel bottoms out on the studs.

Also, there is a second set of holes in the CE28n wheel, but the holes are too small in diameter to allow the OEM 12mm bolts to pass through. (See picture below showing the second hole pattern). Going with a 20mm spacer to encompass the OEM studs is not an option because the wheels are already +22 offset with 285/35/19 rubber and in OEM camber limits, so a +2 offset won't work without major modification (nor will it look right on my car in my opinion).

So before I jump to the conclusion that my only option is to replace the OEM studs with longer studs (e.g. Nismo), is there any other work-around for this?


Related issue: The 10mm Project KICS spacers have a clearance fit between the spacer and the wheel hub. Not a problem, because the spacer is small and its lug nuts do a decent enough job of centering the spacer onto the wheel. The problem is that the portion of the hub center that protrudes through the spacer is not long enough to reach into the hub ring in the wheel to center it. (The back side of the hub ring has a chamfer cut into it which reduces its useful engagement length). So even if I could get the wheel to sit flat onto the spacer, I have no way of centering it. Do I just need different hub rings that don't have the chamfer on the back end? Any tips? Thanks...

 

1. Source shorter studs - by how much does it hit???? how much shorter do you need??? - NAPA does have some. best to first have them pull up an oem replacement, which it itself is shorter by a few millimeters, and then have them look in back for an even shorter one.

look at how many threads stick out past the lug nut holding the spacer onto the z hub............you don't need all those threads past the nut to have the torque based net affected area.

* keep at least 1.5 thread protrusion from the mounting lug nut! as in the lug nut that mounts the spacer to the Z hub.

((* source - multiple Aersopace design manuals on bolt thread engagement.)) 12mmx1.25 stud, thus results in 1.5 threads = 15% net of the diameter since 1.25/12 = 10.4% so 1.5 =~ 15 percent.

all aerospace fasteners - lengths are called out!

2. Cut the oem studs down shorter - see my POST #9 and scroll down to 10 which shows how to replace them, if you decide to replace studs.

OR you can cut spares you bought at napa, with a spare lug nut ensure you did a clean job on the threads then go install them KNOWING they are good...

3. Machine (machine shop or drill at a low speed) the spare holes in the volks bigger? by how much is needed? a few millimeters bigger hole??? the oem studs should be centered on those spare holes........so if you measured the holes compare to 12mmm as the oem stud is an M12x1.25

* Infinity to a hole is 3D (3 times its diameter) so measure and decide if making the holes bigger is an option for you.

I doubt you will, as options 1 and 2 are better...

&&& note: this is based off a machined wheel, not a cast wheel, i cant tell from the pic, but it looks to be a machined wheel face at the mount hole location.

Do the same thing with the wheel.......center it by hand tightening each lug nut on the wheel.........its not hard!

I am familiar with the chamfer you are talking about on the wheels...

you can always buy hub rings and have a local machine shop turn them down on a lathe to fit your needs.

I have actually done this once!! then again, i have had access to aerospace machine shops.......

-J

 

can you take a pic of your spacer mounted onto the z hub only......i wanna see how the nut recesses into the spacer and how many threads are protruding.....should be about 15mm length of protrusion past the spacer plane.

-J

 

Thank you for your thorough reply. I took some pictures of the spacer mounted to the hub but they are on the camera at home - will post ASAP.

Out of the options you mentioned I think replacing the studs with longer ones is the best option, then going with non-studded spacers. I like this option because a) I would rather replace the OEM studs instead of cutting them, and b) it only requires one bolted connection to be torqued properly, as opposed to the studded spacer which requires the spacer nuts to be torqued, and then the wheel lug nuts also to be torqued. (If the spacer lug nuts work themselves loose, you woudn't know it because they are captured under the wheel!)

I also considered opening up the holes in the wheel but then I thought "hmmmm, risk ruining a perfectly nice set of $3000 wheels so I can push them out 10mm and look "cooler"? Don't think so!"

Another advantage of just installing longer studs and using studless spacers is that there will be only 5 studs to deal with, whereas protruding a second set of bare studs through the wheel wouldn't look as clean.

Regarding the wheel centering issue, I've always been on the fence about whether it is acceptable to center the wheel using the lug nuts. I understand the theory behind it, but having the added security of centering it on the hub makes me feel warm and fuzzy. Although I guess if I center using the lug nuts and I get no appreciable vibration, I should be in good shape! It's not like my hub rings, which are plastic, are bearing any of the load anyway.

 

yeah, i see what your saying about them ever coming loose, but the odds of that are so remote its crazy...

I dont blame ya though if you feel comfortable with doing the longer stud option.......

as for centering on the lug nuts....I DO THAT ALL THE TIME... i rarely if ever use my hub, cause yes, no load passes through the ring.....only through the joint (ie the lugs and nuts fastening)

youll be fine, but if your getting the slip on style spacers....then see if you can get some with the hub ring machined on it for your wheels....volks are 72mm right???
-J

 

I wanna say 73mm or 73.1mm for some reason. It's been so long since I bought the hub rings that I can't remember.

Thanks again for all your input!

 

 

I lost 3 of the Ichiba V2 Spacer nuts.. anyone know any replacements? I've been searching the forum for 2 hours now and couldn't find anything haha. Only found one post like mine with no responses.

Are they just regular conical nuts? Thanks!

 

^ what do they look like, what size spacer?? i have had to replace some before...pics????

I mentioned in here to another guy to replace the nuts with smaller lower profile nuts that most mom and pop tire shops sell......you have to go to a few tire shops and find some...

-J

 

I figured id post in here because this gets a quicker response. I have 25MM wheel spacers by Ichiba and 3 of the 5 studs are stripped, i looked through the other page you have set up on how to change them out but im having trouble. These are built in studs with hubcentric rings. Any shop press can take them out> any idea what grade bolt i need to replace it with? Any help is much appreciated!