FAQ: Official wheel "SPACER" thread!
oh well what can u do...
just fyi, i found out that my front oem studs are LONGER than my rear oem ones lol.
fronts on the left are 35-mm threaded (47-mm overall) and rears on the right are 30-mm threaded (42-mm overall). they came from my 2004 G35 coupe.
so to beat a dead horse, i guess running up to a 5-mm spacer up front would be ok.
fronts on the left are 35-mm threaded (47-mm overall) and rears on the right are 30-mm threaded (42-mm overall). they came from my 2004 G35 coupe.
so to beat a dead horse, i guess running up to a 5-mm spacer up front would be ok.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
^^ Great info..............
I wouldnt claim that 5mm is 'only' okay for fronts........the rotor hat in rear is skinnier at the lug holes...so engagement is the same dispite the shorter length in rear ...
Im gonna copy/past this info to the post on the first page....for more exposure..
-J
I wouldnt claim that 5mm is 'only' okay for fronts........the rotor hat in rear is skinnier at the lug holes...so engagement is the same dispite the shorter length in rear ...
Im gonna copy/past this info to the post on the first page....for more exposure..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jun 7, 2010 at 11:50 AM.
btw, i found high-quality fairly inexpensive almost hub-centric 3-mm and 5-mm wheel spacers HERE.
these were made for mitsu 3000gt and dodge stealth, which have 67.1 mm center bore... ours is 66.1 mm.
i got sets of both 3 and 5-mm and that 1 extra mm is NOT a big difference AT ALL.
these were made for mitsu 3000gt and dodge stealth, which have 67.1 mm center bore... ours is 66.1 mm.
i got sets of both 3 and 5-mm and that 1 extra mm is NOT a big difference AT ALL.
btw, i found high-quality fairly inexpensive almost hub-centric 3-mm and 5-mm wheel spacers HERE.
these were made for mitsu 3000gt and dodge stealth, which have 67.1 mm center bore... ours is 66.1 mm.
i got sets of both 3 and 5-mm and that 1 extra mm is NOT a big difference AT ALL.
these were made for mitsu 3000gt and dodge stealth, which have 67.1 mm center bore... ours is 66.1 mm.
i got sets of both 3 and 5-mm and that 1 extra mm is NOT a big difference AT ALL.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Ya good prices...
good source for a 3mm but for 5mm you can get it here for cheaper:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3118
That link was taken from post 288
-J
good source for a 3mm but for 5mm you can get it here for cheaper:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3118
That link was taken from post 288
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jun 9, 2010 at 03:41 AM.
installed my 5mm spacers last week on the rear. My rear offset are 19x11 +33 and tires are 295/35/19. Everything was good for the first few days. Then this week, I feel the steering wheel wobbly and vibrate little/mild at speed above 70mph. Had a friend drove behind me and told me that the back wheels are wobbling when rolling. Driver side rear wobble more than passenger size.
Took the car to a safe place and re-check/torque down the lug nuts on the rear. 4 lug nuts on driver rear are LOOSE!!!! not loose all the way but loose enough where I have to turn almost 1/2 clockwise on my torque wrench to torque it down. Passenger size had 3 loose nuts.
1 day later, 2 lugs are loose but not too loose. Only lost about 1/8 of a turn.
My original torque specs right after I installed those 5mm spacers are 87 ft/lb. Afterward, I torque it down to 90 ft/lb.
Anyone experience similar problems? I might consider go to Pepboys and get some extended stud and swap it out the OEM one tomorrow.
Took the car to a safe place and re-check/torque down the lug nuts on the rear. 4 lug nuts on driver rear are LOOSE!!!! not loose all the way but loose enough where I have to turn almost 1/2 clockwise on my torque wrench to torque it down. Passenger size had 3 loose nuts.
1 day later, 2 lugs are loose but not too loose. Only lost about 1/8 of a turn.
My original torque specs right after I installed those 5mm spacers are 87 ft/lb. Afterward, I torque it down to 90 ft/lb.
Anyone experience similar problems? I might consider go to Pepboys and get some extended stud and swap it out the OEM one tomorrow.
Last edited by *ICE*; Jun 8, 2010 at 08:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
installed my 5mm spacers last week on the rear. My rear offset are 19x11 +33 and tires are 295/35/19. Everything was good for the first few days. Then this week, I feel the steering wheel wobbly and vibrate little/mild at speed above 70mph. Had a friend drove behind me and told me that the back wheels are wobbling when rolling. Driver side rear wobble more than passenger size.
Took the car to a safe place and re-check/torque down the lug nuts on the rear. 4 lug nuts on driver rear are LOOSE!!!! not loose all the way but loose enough where I have to turn almost 1/2 clockwise on my torque wrench to torque it down. Passenger size had 3 loose nuts.
1 day later, 2 lugs are loose but not too loose. Only lost about 1/8 of a turn.
My original torque specs right after I installed those 5mm spacers are 87 ft/lb. Afterward, I torque it down to 90 ft/lb.
Anyone experience similar problems? I might consider go to Pepboys and get some extended stud and swap it out the OEM one tomorrow.
Took the car to a safe place and re-check/torque down the lug nuts on the rear. 4 lug nuts on driver rear are LOOSE!!!! not loose all the way but loose enough where I have to turn almost 1/2 clockwise on my torque wrench to torque it down. Passenger size had 3 loose nuts.
1 day later, 2 lugs are loose but not too loose. Only lost about 1/8 of a turn.
My original torque specs right after I installed those 5mm spacers are 87 ft/lb. Afterward, I torque it down to 90 ft/lb.
Anyone experience similar problems? I might consider go to Pepboys and get some extended stud and swap it out the OEM one tomorrow.
pics plz??
-J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
studs aren't stripped? lug nuts not cracked? probably an isolated incident or have it continued to happen...
try marking your studs and ensuring they arent spinning on the knurl after some mileage...
-J
link? are they cnc machined units? if so, it sounds like a torque problem...
studs aren't stripped? lug nuts not cracked? probably an isolated incident or have it continued to happen...
try marking your studs and ensuring they arent spinning on the knurl after some mileage...
-J
studs aren't stripped? lug nuts not cracked? probably an isolated incident or have it continued to happen...
try marking your studs and ensuring they arent spinning on the knurl after some mileage...
-J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
-J
I thought so too. I will keep monitor the torque at 90 ft/lb for a week and report back if there is still issue of the nuts loosing. Do i have to tighten down the nuts while the rear wheels in free space, ie jack up the rear and torque it down that way or can I just torque it while the car on the ground?
The thought of the nuts coming off and my wheels fall off while driving on highway is haunting me daily lol
The thought of the nuts coming off and my wheels fall off while driving on highway is haunting me daily lol
Arggg my wheel spacers are stuck again, can i torch them to losen them up?
I think there is rust build up on the hub, i had a tough time last time when I was replacing rotors, now they wont even budge with a chisel!
I think applying anti-seize or something to the hub ring should be part of the DIY info, any ideas how to remove them more efficiently?
I think there is rust build up on the hub, i had a tough time last time when I was replacing rotors, now they wont even budge with a chisel!
I think applying anti-seize or something to the hub ring should be part of the DIY info, any ideas how to remove them more efficiently?
Last edited by o2sys; Jun 11, 2010 at 07:53 AM.
Arggg my wheel spacers are stuck again, can i torch them to losen them up?
I think there is rust build up on the hub, i had a tough time last time when I was replacing rotors, now they wont even budge with a chisel!
I think applying anti-seize or something to the hub ring should be part of the DIY info, any ideas how to remove them more efficiently?
I think there is rust build up on the hub, i had a tough time last time when I was replacing rotors, now they wont even budge with a chisel!
I think applying anti-seize or something to the hub ring should be part of the DIY info, any ideas how to remove them more efficiently?
i get a flathead (the thinnest u can find, usually a pocket clip flathead is best), then lightly wedge it between the spacer and the rotor hat using a hammer against the handle, then pry it up maybe 1-2mm, and repeat all around evenly until it has separated.
for me, i did 2 locations and it seperated fine.
for me, i did 2 locations and it seperated fine.