aside from gorilla i have found:

FOUND THIS SITE TO SELL INDIVIDUAL LUG NUTS FOR SPACERS:

http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/whl_acc.htm

I like to use these lug nuts.....they use a 17mm hex socket to install them and are M12x1.25 of course.

They are 16.5mm tall:
c29c1e0e.jpg?t=1282680530

on the UPGRADEMOTORING.COM site, they are right below the project kic 4 prong picture...

There is no picture shown for them- the description states:

Project KICS Special Lug Nuts to bolt on their spacers to your car. For 20mm, 25mm, and 30mm thick spacers. 20-30mm Spacer lugs are only 16.5mm tall. Please specify 12x1.5mm or 12x1.25mm. Standard 17mm Head. 12x1.25mm BUY NOW! 12x1.50mm BUY NOW!


When you click on the appropriate link, they are ITEM NUMBER:
Item #: WHLKICWKKYSLN20125

-J

 

Quick question. I'm installing Ichiba v1 15mm spacers in the front. So the hub deff has to come off. Does this require special tools or no? Also, a mechanic at a shop used a M12 1.25 open ended nut to replace a stud in my rear at one point. Is that another way to install the longer studs or is that a ghetto trick?

 

I have removed rear hubs, but haven't done so on the front, acidjake75 has, you can ask him for insight....I would think there would be room to wiggle a stud in like your mechanic did in the rear, but im not sure. I have also only replaced studs in the rear.

I highly doubt anything special is needed to remove the front hub, if anything it would be disconnecting the abs sensor, etc so na..nothing major...acid can probably provide some insight.


ya, thats the pull through method,..... in my mind is okay if you take your time, use some washers and dont let it all get hot..........

the unintentional damage is if you crank it on to fast, or use an impact and it gets to hot, weakens the stud threads, or gives small microscopic fractures in the root of the threads that later lead to a stripped stud...

on the flip side i have seen many people do this with high quality strength studs - take there time and have not issues for years...........I mean, studs are some high grade stuff usually - depending where you buy them. spacers sometimes come with good studs, sometimes come with cheap china crap...

However,
The complete proper way to do this is to press the stud into the hub. thats why the studs have such a large press head on them to begin with.

If it were me, i would press them on, becuase i own a press..........

but if i had some nice quality studs, the nut/washer method would suffice..

make sense??
-J

 

Jason is right - use a press to get them in ...

you can do the Ghetto action but that would be ONLY if you didnt have a press or something to press them in. I would use balljoint press tool and do one at a time so you dont have to take the whole thing off..

I have pics at home to better explain...

Theres an area where one stud is available once you take the caliper bracket off.


I use this guy to press it in W/ OUT having to take off the whole hub. Its easy and it works.


Ive seen the washer / open ended lug action and I personally dont like it but it still works.

 

thanx!

 

Hey man I'm elbow deep right now. I'm ready to knock out the studs, but will the ichiba studs that come with the 154mm spacers slide in without the hub coming off? Thanks for the help.

 

WTF, I think the extended studs that came with my spacers are too short. Unless I'm doing something wrong, there is only like .5" exposed with the wheel on...

 

I just took these now to help...I hope it helps ya some....

 

That does seem short but does that include the spacer too?

 

It's ok. I wasnt including the conical seat and the hubcentric ring was not seated all the way on the hub. The lugs went on fine. Should the rings have to be seated with a rubber mallet or should they just slide right on?


One of my Ti lugs stripped. At least I know the studs are damn strong to eat a lug. Starting on the second one now.

 

DONE!

You can use a strong flathead to pop the caliper bracket off. NO need to lift the caliper.

My ghetto rigged stud install. TAKE YOUR TIME. Use as many ashers as possible because it is less elbow grease and they act as a heatsink for the stud. Do a couple turns, wait 30 seconds, do a couple more. You don't want to heatsoak the bolt and have it snap. Check it with your finger to see how hot it is getting. This is the hardest part about the install.

I had to take my front bumper off to break the caliper bracket bolts with my breaker bar. THere is not way I could (and I'm strong as an ox ) break them loose in the confined space with the bumper on. It's cool though, because I need to install my grills in my INGS+1 bumper.

Overall, it's not bad at all. Just a lot of elbow grease the way I did it.

Difficulty: 3/10

Thanks for all the help and PMs!

-phreak

 

Passenger side after/Driver side before...

 

^ good job....

instead of removing the bumper, just jack the front of the car up high enough to get to the bolts and have room to swing from the bottom..

-J

 

Whole process took about 20 mins per side. Pressing out the stud IMO is safer on the hub.





Use a open ended regular lug (in reverse) and leave it at the top of the stud


DONE - with longer studs to put spacer in the front (this is on a FX35 with GTR rims)

 

Can you explain why this is necessary?

Got pics up?

 

sure - so you DONT press on the stud itself and ruin threads..


Pic per your request -

 

On sportlines and ichiba f-20mm r-25. Love my new stance

 

If your stock wheel is say. +30mm, then adding a 15mm spacer makes it what, +22.5 right? (30mm - (15mm/2))

 

Puzzled on offset, REALLY NEED HELP....trying to run Neutral 18x9.5's on all four wheels..offset is 40mm...Now I found a great deal and am overly in LOVE with these rims...is this too much of a stretch to run on my non-brembo Z effectively?

 

Wrong, You will end up with a +15mm offset..... +30mm - 15mm(spacer) = +15mm offset after.