FAQ: Official wheel "SPACER" thread!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
He never responded if he "marked" his studs to see if they spin in the hub. Ie, the knurl is bad and stud is moving??
or
If he ever over torqued them too much "one" time he could have galled/fractured the threads at the stop point of engagement and now the threads wont hold torque.........like he said, if it keeps happening after careful monitoring, then the next thing to do is swap the studs...
if 5mm(spacers in general) is what you want, go for it, but like anything else on your car, it requires a "degree" of maintenance.......
-J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Jason, I am running wider tires on my stock 08 nismo. Tires are 265/40/18 front and 285/35 rear ( Up from 245/265 respectively.)I am on stock Nismo suspension and don't plan on lowering it. What should I run, do you think, to make the wheels relatively flush? I was thinking 20 mm all around? Would I need to roll the fenders with that wide of a tire? Thanks Jason!
Measure tire to fender:
1. Sitting there, normal state
2. while re-creating a bump by driving on top of one board
3. while re-creating a bump by driving on top of two boards
from there, decide what thickness spacer works best.....
-J
^ what a great idea.
These are the spacers I bought that were recommended to me another fellow z owner. Any qualms about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290458606502
These are the spacers I bought that were recommended to me another fellow z owner. Any qualms about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290458606502
I agree with Pizza, i doubt it, but the best thing you can do is measure....
Measure tire to fender:
1. Sitting there, normal state
2. while re-creating a bump by driving on top of one board
3. while re-creating a bump by driving on top of two boards
from there, decide what thickness spacer works best.....
-J
Measure tire to fender:
1. Sitting there, normal state
2. while re-creating a bump by driving on top of one board
3. while re-creating a bump by driving on top of two boards
from there, decide what thickness spacer works best.....
-J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
^ what a great idea.
These are the spacers I bought that were recommended to me another fellow z owner. Any qualms about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290458606502
These are the spacers I bought that were recommended to me another fellow z owner. Any qualms about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290458606502
go back and look at those i linked for 5mm..
-J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
^ ya, to get to that point, its no biggy, remove the caliper bolts and hang the caliper out of the way and then remove the rotor......easy breezy...
From there use one of the options listed on that post #10.
I know that the rear, you have to spin the hub to the back and the bolt has room to come out.........but its pretty straight forward task.
if you do the hammer method to remove and dont have a heavy enough hammer then it can take you a while, etc.
-J
From there use one of the options listed on that post #10.
I know that the rear, you have to spin the hub to the back and the bolt has room to come out.........but its pretty straight forward task.
if you do the hammer method to remove and dont have a heavy enough hammer then it can take you a while, etc.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Aug 6, 2010 at 04:07 AM.
^ ya, to get to that point, its no biggy, remove the caliper bolts and hang the caliper out of the way and then remove the rotor......easy breezy...
From there use one of the options listed on that post #10.
I know that the rear, you have to spin the hub to the back and the bolt has room to come out.........but its pretty straight forward task.
if you do the hammer method to remove and dont have a heavy enough hammer then it can take you a while, etc.
-J
From there use one of the options listed on that post #10.
I know that the rear, you have to spin the hub to the back and the bolt has room to come out.........but its pretty straight forward task.
if you do the hammer method to remove and dont have a heavy enough hammer then it can take you a while, etc.
-J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
https://my350z.com/forum/7149652-post10.html
-J
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 908
Likes: 28
From: Winnipeg, MB
Not yet, I need to do either a 20mm or 25mm up front. Which will result in 8.5 with a 0 or -5 offset.
It's on my To-Do list, but closer to the bottom now, I've been concentrating more on parts for my Vortech install, and paying for school
It's on my To-Do list, but closer to the bottom now, I've been concentrating more on parts for my Vortech install, and paying for school
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Schofield Barracks, Hawaii
Here are my pic sof my wheel spacers. I have 25mm all around. I am trying to sell my rear set of spacers to buy 30mm in the rear to make it more flush. What do you think of it?
PM me if ya want a set of spacers as well
PM me if ya want a set of spacers as well
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX