Firmware fixed my transient throttle issues........

 

looking for updates with regards to obd2 and emissions. With the older platinum was obd2 an issue?

 

it will not pass any obd2 or emissions. it is illegal for Haltech to make it do that.

The old version piggybacked off the stock ECU to keep OBD2 compliance.

 

^ It is true that this is illegal, but so much of what is done on our cars is not truly street legal (hey, at least I do have cats!). If you can pass with a visual and obd scan of the stock ecu today, then I think with the right knowledge the end user could pass with this unit. Obviously Haltech or any legitimate company cannot condone or support it.

 

This is such a tempting unit now, but this is the only setback.
so... just wait for someone to hack their software to unlock "obd2 ready"?

Where I live next year they will be changing e-testing from a sniff test to a obd2 scan not sure what else they will be checking. It will be interesting for the people taking their cars out of storage only to get rejected because obd2 will not be ready. I wonder if they took that into account?

 

It is against the law to tamper or falsify emissions testings requirements.

You think a company is really going to publicly advertise that they do this? C'mon people you want Haltech to come wipe your butt too?

 

Why not just swap it out for the OEM unit when it's time for testing? Get a basic uprev tune to get the fueling 'close enough' for normal driving (non boost). The beauty of the whole thing is how easy of a swap it is...

 

One issue with that: if you, like me, removed your stock wideband O2 sensors and replaced them with new ones for the Haltech, you will also have to put the old ones back in and reconnect them, or the stock ECU will throw codes.

 

^ I think you could flash the stock ECU to allow it to pass and run out of boost. Not sure why you would remove the stock widebands but I figure most people do not.

 

I asked this question earlier and the answer was that the PNP unit cannot interface with OEM widebands. Kind of goes against the whole plug-n-play idea IMO.

 

I have the OEM widebands still connected and have the Haltech widebands connected through the expansion cables. Hal never said anything about removing the OEM Widebands just that the EMS would not be using it

 

You don't have to remove the OEM widebands, I just didn't want to weld on new bungs for the new widebands, so I put them in the same bung the OEM widebands are in.

 

Anyone found PID settings that work for the EVT side of things yet?

 

I got some suggested PID settings from Haltech for the EVT side of things. Going to verify how they work this weekend.

P = 60
I = 65
D = 0

Frequency = 1000Hz
Steady State = 27%
MinDuty = 10%
MaxDuty = 90%
Deadband = 1.0

 

what are u using for your IVT side? built head with stiff valve springs right?

Be interesting to see if those #'s work. The PID #'s seem off the charts high. Most tuning guides say move the P by like 0.1 increments. then go to D at like 0.05 increments. Definitely would take years to get to those #s based on how MoTec advises to dial in a PID system.

Best to make sure that 27% does indeed hold the cam at a fixed position between the limits.

 

The 27% duty does hold them under steady conditions.

The IVT side of things are in the base map already.

 

Anyone have had problems with the Haltech picking up cam timing on their haltech after it gets warm when the idling is set higher then 1,000 rpm? Friend of mine in the UK is having the below problem.
The first shows the car from a cold start the Haltech has never once failed from a cold start and performs fine
http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/...=VIDEO0029.mp4
The second video is after about 10 minutes running and as you can see the Haltech is still working, you will then see on the restart the Haltech fails to pick up the cam timing until the RPM is dropped by almost stalling the engine.
It goes onto show a quick restart of the car will not cause the cam timing to fail then a final restart after the ECU has gone offline then and after a bit of mucking about the cam timing comes back on.
http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/...=VIDEO0029.mp4
As a further test if the target is changed while the actual is showing 0.0 the engine does not respond to the change if the change is made when the readings are correct the engine does respond.
He gets los of torque on a dyno run too so it's not just some glitch...

Going to see if I can get the same problem myself when I get my car back...

 

Since it seems to be temperature based I would look at the harness or sensors first.

 

Take this as a grain of salt but based on what I see on my Z this is normal when using the Haltech harness based ecu. For me the cam timing will always take a bit of time before it starts working. It is like the ecu waits a pre-calculated time/scenario before it starts targeting timing. With the Haltech Pro Plug-in I do not see the same symptoms from memory.

 

After firmware 1.10 upgrade with my g35 I lost cam sensors until I did a full pull to redline then my cams would start working. Hal had to log into my car and change some parameters in my firmware. I guess the range was just slightly more narrow than what my car was giving causing the haltech to act like they were gone. Contact hal and he might be able to adjust your firmware.