Like manually edit the firmware bin file?

Last I heard it's with R&D in Haltech.

 

you got the standalone now and it's not there anymore is that what you're saying? I don't think it's anything to do with 'time' rather behavior of the car when you have the RPM set higher then OEM. Kinda takes away from the harness or sensors too?

 

It's firmware. The parameters of what the normal range is can be adjusted.

 

Im still on the hunt for some good PID settings. Every time I think I get them close enough I see too much deviation the next day.

I was told a new firmware release might be coming to fix the issue. The harness style boxes didn't seem to have this problem so they must have had a different set of control variables or something.

 

It's my Zed that has the issue with the VVT on the Haltech.

We dropped the idle rpm to 800 and the Haltech works fine again - as long as you let the engine warm up and the idle drops below the 850rpm point.

Downside is mine does not like the idle that slow and tends to hunt a bit.

I emailed Hal he sent me a firmware upgrade but it hasn't solved the problem.

I'm waiting for a reply from Haltech.

We put the ECU into an NA 350z and set the idle to 1100 and got the same result so it seems it is the hight idle speed to blame for the problem.

 

I have the new version of the Haltech on my JWT TT G35. Works great, but now that the weather is getting cold, when I leave it outside all day, and try to start it at the end of the day, it doesn't start or dies immediately on the first try. the second try it starts right up.

Any ideas on what to change to solve this (I know, not much to go on)

 

Mine idles at 1100. At no point does it ever drop below 1000 rpms and it will start working after a full pull to redline. Hal fixed my firmware and cams work all the time now with no issues.

If it doesn't start then prime pulse time in the cold sections. If it starts and dies then you need to work on the early time cells in the post start enrichment at the cold temps.

Unless you hot wire your widebands to stay on during cranking you will just have to play with it. Hook the haltech up and turn the key on then look at the prime pulse map to see where the cursor is. Then try to start it. If it doesn't start then add some fuel to that cell and try again. I would adjust the cells around it as well. If adding fuel didn't help then try pulling fuel. Trial and error is the best way to find out if you do'nt have widebands on during cranking. Usually in cold it's too lean and in the hot it is too rich so adjust accordingly.

 

Increasing the prime pulse got it able to start at cold temps. Now, it is staring fine, and dying about 5 seconds later. And then starting right back up when I turn the key again, no problems.

So, which way should I be moving the timing in the early time cells, post start enrichment? Advancing, or retarding?

Thanks for the help

 

Dave, What I believe Jeff is saying is increase the fueling in the Fuel > Post Start Enrich table. This table is CTS vs Engine Running Time. Work on the 0-2 second column at the desired temp.

I think you took "time" literally as timing

 

Dave, I would keep working with fuel for the time being. Engine timing is probably ok and the last thing I adjust to help hard starting issues.

As I have selected in blue here. It's in the Post-start enrichment table. Raise the fuel in the 0, 1, and maybe even 5 second areas of the cold temps. Those will help keep it running after it gets the first cylinder fire.

If you know the temp you are going to be at the most (say if you are mostly at 60* and not down at 30* like the map shows) then you can hit F3 while you are within that post start enrichment map and add another line in there so you can adjust 60* individually.

Hope that helps. Feel free to email me directly if you have questions and don't want to wait for a response on here.

 

Ah, yes, I did think you meant timing. Duh. Anyways, thanks for the tips, I will try some more with it, and see how it goes. It's kind of annoying, working on 'cold start' because you can only test each adjustment once a day or so, before waiting until the next day after everything cools off to try again

 

Ya, exactly why I will never use an ecu or tuning solution without an end user tuning software. I am always making minor changes over time with my map to fine tune it.

 

Completely agree, which is one of the reasons I love the Haltech.

 

Quick update: managed to massage the post start enrichment and the first pulse prime and things are good now. Thanks for the help.

 

since the new the haltech is replacing the OEm ecu. Will it be able to adapt any DBW throttle body? For example: GM lsX dbw?

 

It can but it takes working with Haltech for them to change the settings on the back end of the software. I am having them get a file setup to run a ford style throttle body for my car.

 

what all needs to be setup? most universal boxes control DBW, so wondering what makes the haltech specific to its TB

 

SInce the haltech PNP box is setup specifically for the oem TB they dont give you all the parameters to mess with in the software so you just have to get them to change a couple of things to work with a different TB. If it was a universal box then yes you would just put whatever you need in it to run a specific TB.

 

Really? thats kinda crappy. It should be able to figure out the parameters with the DBW setup stuff.

Did you actually setup a larger tb on this haltech unit?

 

Working on it still. Haltech is just waiting for me to tell them which one im going with and the info that comes along with it. Figuring out something that will work and wont have to cut the hood.