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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Break in period

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Old 12-08-2006, 09:10 AM
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13SECZ
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Default Break in period

Might be getting my 2006 Z very soon...Is there a break in period ?...

Some car companys say that you dont need to..others say you do ?..

what do you think ?..and if yes then what should it be ? before you open her up !!
Old 12-08-2006, 09:13 AM
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Jonathan Allyn
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I know your new here and welcome to the boards but check out the search feature. Its a great tool.
Old 12-08-2006, 09:15 AM
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13SECZ
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I did search...about alot..and I have alot of new info but I just like to get some new opinons sometimes.

Thanks
Old 12-08-2006, 09:19 AM
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Deftones
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Originally Posted by 13SECZ
Might be getting my 2006 Z very soon...Is there a break in period ?...

Some car companys say that you dont need to..others say you do ?..

what do you think ?..and if yes then what should it be ? before you open her up !!
If you are looking to buy an 06 right now... chances are it's already broken in, lol. The last few 06's I looked at on Nissan lots had 400+ miles on them from all the test drives. Good luck finding a car that hasn't been driven much since it was manufactured close to a year ago.
Old 12-08-2006, 09:20 AM
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13SECZ
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This one has 60miles on it right now.
Old 12-08-2006, 10:11 AM
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https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/1527-running-in-breaking-in-your-new-350z.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/2355-asking-for-opinions-on-best-way-to-break-in-my-z.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/10772-break-in-mostly-bogus.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/10998-engine-break-in-secrets.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/19879-check-this-break-in-procedure-out.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/17654-break-in-really-necessary.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/38039-read-this-article-on-break-in-process-is-this-true.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/50605-engine-break-ins.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/51748-proper-break-in-question.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/51346-2004-changes-break-in-period.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/54283-how-do-you-break-in-a-car.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/61206-engine-break-in-period.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/66131-finally-broken-in.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/74113-break-in.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/80188-yet-another-break-in-thread.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/81633-what-happens-if-you-do-not-properly-break-in-your-z.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/113433-how-to-break-in-your-new-engine.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/114145-quick-help-breakin-engine.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/56934-break-in-period.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/125771-engine-break-in-an-age-old-question.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/126974-what-are-you-thoughts-on-this-break-in-method.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/142404-best-rpm-range-to-shift-for-new-z.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/192016-interesting-read-on-break-in-methods.html
Old 12-08-2006, 10:45 AM
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keep it under 4000 rpms for the first 1200 miles. This along with more information are available in your owners manual. You can download a copy from nissanusa.com if you feel ambitious.
Old 12-08-2006, 10:45 AM
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Drive it like you stole it!
Old 12-08-2006, 10:47 AM
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Read the owners manual.
Old 12-08-2006, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by davidv
Read the owners manual.
Can you elaborate? What is an owners manual?
Old 12-08-2006, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by z-u-later
Drive it like you stole it!
+1

no break in needed

nebo
Old 12-08-2006, 11:48 AM
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If you go by the owners manual you will not break it in properly. do a search for Mototune break-in. Read it several times and apply it to your new Z. If you baby the car during break in, the rings will not set correctly (uneven wear) and the car will possible burn oil. Acceleration and Deceleration are equally very important. After break-in your car will yield more power stock and last alot longer. I break in all my bikes, cars, etc this way. Bought my bike in July and did this procedure...my bike dynos higher than any other stock gixxer 750 that has been on that dyno. Keep in mind you don't want to dump the clutch as clutch break-in needs to be easy. So take off easy, and ease into the accelerator damn near to redline (maybe 5500Rs) and let the motor bring the Rs back down. Do this in every gear to help break in the tranny as well. Been doing this for a long time....trust me, this is the way to do it. Don't forget to change that oil like 5 times before you hit 1200 miles.

Last edited by Old School; 12-08-2006 at 11:52 AM.
Old 12-08-2006, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Old School
If you go by the owners manual you will not break it in properly. do a search for Mototune break-in. Read it several times and apply it to your new Z. If you baby the car during break in, the rings will not set correctly (uneven wear) and the car will possible burn oil. Acceleration and Deceleration are equally very important. After break-in your car will yield more power stock and last alot longer. I break in all my bikes, cars, etc this way. Bought my bike in July and did this procedure...my bike dynos higher than any other stock gixxer 750 that has been on that dyno. Keep in mind you don't want to dump the clutch as clutch break-in needs to be easy. So take off easy, and ease into the accelerator damn near to redline (maybe 5500Rs) and let the motor bring the Rs back down. Do this in every gear to help break in the tranny as well. Been doing this for a long time....trust me, this is the way to do it. Don't forget to change that oil like 5 times before you hit 1200 miles.
+1
Maybe this, and the standard break-in per the manual, should be in a FAQ or the top 100 (not sure if it isn't there already, I haven't read it in awhile.
Old 12-08-2006, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by usafmech
+1
Maybe this, and the standard break-in per the manual, should be in a FAQ or the top 100 (not sure if it isn't there already, I haven't read it in awhile.
You've been plus 1'ing me all over the place when talkin about break-in. I guess I'm not the only one who knows how to break-in a motor. You still in the service bro? Old Navy here....got out in 99.
Old 12-08-2006, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Old School
You've been plus 1'ing me all over the place when talkin about break-in. I guess I'm not the only one who knows how to break-in a motor. You still in the service bro? Old Navy here....got out in 99.

Yep, still AD USAF since '92. Five years (+ or - a few months) to go! Navy huh? I have an uncle that's an E-7 SEAL, been in since '89. He constantly asks me how the 'chair force' is, and I constantly ask him how safe he feels, knowing someone like me works on the engines of the planes he jumps out of...lol.

As far as +1'ing you, I firmly feel that is the correct way to break in a modern combustion engine, for the reasons given. My example is much like yours: I bought an 01 929RR, and a friend bought a 01 929 Erion Racing Edition (powdercoated frame, different graphics), no go fast goody differences. I broke my bike in via the thermal cycle method, varying the rpm's vs. temp vs. gear, while taking it fairly easy on the clutch for the 1st 100 miles. He broke his in the "UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES GO BEYOND 5K rpm!!!" method. I ended up dynoing 6 hp more than him, on the same dyno, within 200 miles of his odo, within 45 mins. I don't know what the car equivelant would be, but as you know, 6 hp on a 385 lb bike is quite a bit.
Old 12-08-2006, 12:39 PM
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Do you plan on putting 200k miles on your original bike engines? For some reason I doubt it.

A hard break-in is great for a racing season.... so long as the engine gets rebuilt afterwards.

I've heard from just as many, if not more people with oil consumption problems who did not follow the break-in than those who did. Also factor in most people who have oil consumption problems would not admit they smoked the tires off the lot.
Old 12-08-2006, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by roast
Do you plan on putting 200k miles on your original bike engines? For some reason I doubt it.

A hard break-in is great for a racing season.... so long as the engine gets rebuilt afterwards.

I've heard from just as many, if not more people with oil consumption problems who did not follow the break-in than those who did. Also factor in most people who have oil consumption problems would not admit they smoked the tires off the lot.
No, but I did end up getting 36K miles out of my bike before I sold it, without any problems. I rode rain/cloudy/sunny, VIR, Daytona, Myrtle Beach, local drag, etc. 36k for a liter bike is quite a bit in 4 years, considering the average, I'd bet. But I agree, it's not apples to apples.

Fake edit: Then again, I'm betting most on this board aren't planning to keep their Z for 200k, either.
Old 12-08-2006, 02:57 PM
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Well sure but besides those threads there is little information on the subject.
Old 12-08-2006, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by roast
Can you elaborate? What is an owners manual?
Its a little book that you get where you buy a car. I read it. Character development was poor, and the plot difficult to follow. The ending was a bit disappointing.
Old 12-08-2006, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Old School
If you go by the owners manual you will not break it in properly. do a search for Mototune break-in. Read it several times and apply it to your new Z. If you baby the car during break in, the rings will not set correctly (uneven wear) and the car will possible burn oil. Acceleration and Deceleration are equally very important. After break-in your car will yield more power stock and last alot longer. I break in all my bikes, cars, etc this way. Bought my bike in July and did this procedure...my bike dynos higher than any other stock gixxer 750 that has been on that dyno. Keep in mind you don't want to dump the clutch as clutch break-in needs to be easy. So take off easy, and ease into the accelerator damn near to redline (maybe 5500Rs) and let the motor bring the Rs back down. Do this in every gear to help break in the tranny as well. Been doing this for a long time....trust me, this is the way to do it. Don't forget to change that oil like 5 times before you hit 1200 miles.

yes do this, because motorcycle engines and a 6 cylinder car engine are exactly the same thing


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